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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Rolling chassis pretty much done, paint and decals to add to tank (Montesa & HONDA) No more bodywork, thats it.
Waiting for: mini brake reservoirs, 2:1 link pipe for exhaust, 49T renthall sprocket, valve guide oil seals (15.000kms and burned oil like a 2-stroke).
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm193/vencejo13/slr63-1.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm193/vencejo13/slr62-1.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm193/vencejo13/slr61-1.jpg
What's coming out of your shed soon?


small pics....??
 

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Romanian Trailbiker
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Damn, this looks like it's going to be one hell of a cafe racer :D

Wait, is that actually an SLR frame?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
SLR frame with the 2 rails that supprt the pillion end cut out; the battery sits on top of the shock and there's a short brace welded across the angle, plenty for my 70kgs. I also chopped 20cms off the back end.
 

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Romanian Trailbiker
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Very interesting mod. Just be careful with that no-support rear subframe...

...and I just noticed Dommie and SLR frames are not actually similar at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Rear end is a big box section welded to the front box, there's triangulation, welded one side, bolted the other, around the battery, so the back end of the box only supports the end can , numberplate etc.. no provision for pillion or luggage.
I lifted the whole bike using the rear exhaust mounts, measured zero deflection, still over-engineered for a single seater.
If I can fit the electrics under the tank I may even cut off all the metalwork behind a single seat (I think I could take 25cms out of the middle of the stock seat and still have plenty of seat for one), but I'd need a floating 'guard or extended hugger to stop the gravel hitting my back!

My SLR is designed for me to ride the twisty mountain roads up here, has to be light and agile.
Lower is better for my use, so I've redrilled and reinforced the monoshock clevis giving 36mm drop at the back wheel and dropped the yokes 40mm, along with the seat foam being reduced to 20mm all over, lowering rider C of G by about 8cms. I'm gearing it so that I can use all the gears; theoretical speed limit is 40-60kmh, on a mad day you might be able to see 100kmh on the speedo, so its a 49T alloy sprocket at the back with the stock 14T at the front. With the weight reduction, throttle response should be pretty sharp.
 

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Romanian Trailbiker
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So you're going for all-torque. Gotta say, that's a pretty steep climb. I'm unsure if you'll be able to roar past 80kph easily. Ever ridden in such conditions before? I did and hated city traffic. I'd zip to 60kph (starting in 2nd gear to avoid wheelies) then struggle to keep up with traffic (so yea, we don't always drive by the book if the road's clear).
 

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frame detail


Until the latest strip down, I was followed along the coastal M-way at a max of 145kmh, changed the back sprocket to 46T and speed went up to 148kmh, very buzzy, but got there quicker; assuming that stock gearing limits top speed, 46T perhaps lets it rev out (at sea level, but the bike is jetted for 500m above sea level).
So 49T will give me a flat out max of 148 x 46 / 49 = 139kmh, which is a good 20kmh more than I need up here.
I have a Suzuki 4x4 (lightened, of course); to start from our front door up to the main street I have to use low range.... our street is a bit steep;) so low gears are a very good idea:thumbup:
I really love torque... my A-road bike is a Buell XB9R.
 

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Romanian Trailbiker
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Looks ok, I guess. I'm no material resistance expert :p

Let us know how this goes along. And maybe how you'd want it to look.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Should look "just the bike", bare essentials for 1 person to have fun. My favourite bikes are 1950's flat-trackers, 1960's street scramblers, '70's trailies(DT400 especially), '80's muscle bikes and '90´s streetfighters. Hopefully it'll combime the best bits of em all rathjer than the worst.. (I have a m8 who built a Triton from scrap bits: Triumph flexy frame with Norton grenade motor, wot fun)
The change in the seat height means that the drag bars give the same seat to bar relationship(with the Renthalls I had fitted earlier it felt like a chopper); but with closer seat to footpeg range, with a 75cms inside leg that's good news!
I am sufficiently qualified to estimate loads and forces etc. ;)

update: after checking it looks like I can hide the electrics under the tank, so the rear plastic is due to go, along with the subframe behind the rear seat mounts. Taillight will sit under the end of the seat, another bracket to be made...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Weighed my almost-done slr today: Stock bike kerbweight (full of fuel+ oil)= 175kgs.
Mine with no link pipe (approx 1kg) and no fuel (10kgs for 13ltrs) = 136kgs. Should be 147kgs max kerbweight.
28kgs reduction :iconbiggrin::iconbiggrin:, should make a huge difference in performance and handling.
Weight balance: 48,5% front, 51,5% rear.
Tank to be repainted, awaiting link pipe.

Anyone got a bare front hub for an slr/vigor, no rim or spokes?
I like the idea of an 18" rim: 120/80 -17 rear, 110/80 - 18 front, a bit lower and slightly steeper front end. :thumbright:
 

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Now on a BMW R1100RS.
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Is it finished... (+1 for pictures!!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
phase 3 nearly done, ZXR400 rear suspension, CBR600 fork internals, VFR750 clip-ons. Lowered 8cm. 17" wheels, Distanzia SuperMoto tyres, race full wets for serious play days.


XL500s tank cut, welded, patched, all electrics underneath; chopped down flat track seat. Gazelle silencers made to my spec.
 

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Now on a BMW R1100RS.
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That is gorgeous! :thumbright:
I like that a lot, could you tell me about the cbr600 fork internals please and how you did that?
Keep us updated on it! :)
 

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That is a sweeet conversion dude:thumbright: i hate those tyres on the road though i just couldnt get on with them
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is a sweeet conversion dude:thumbright: i hate those tyres on the road though i just couldnt get on with them
Show me stickier tyres for a lightweight bike and I'll use 'em...... but from my experience there are none. other than the non- road legal race tyres I use.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The Distanzia SM's are very different from regular Distanzias, softer compound. Z-rated tyres are sh¡te on light low-powered bikes, they never get up to temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
CBR600f, pre-cartridge forks.... so easy...
strip SLR forks, keep sliders and stanchions together, chuck the valves (via allen key at bottom), springs, spacers, top bolts. Replace with CBR parts, use 32mm plastic plumbing tube to make new extra-long spacers so that slr springs + spacers = CBR600 springs with new spacers; add CBR preload adjusters.
Job done, stiffer road springs, less dive, adjustable.
The old CBR forks cost me 35quids.... I'm thinking of using the rest of 'em to bring the front axle back 4cms and make the steering even tighter.
The ZXR unit at the back needs sleeving for 8mm mountings (it has 10mm eyes) and 10mm spacer under the spring with lots of pre-load... 4-position adjustment for damping too.
The original SLR was the sloppiest handling most lardy animal I've ever owned, Just a bit different now.
 
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