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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

well finally after seeing an "at" for the first time 13yrs ago in exeter ive got one and love it. different world to my dominator and tenere (6 litres of oil getting to barcelona and back in the rain) :( im still at that stage were you have a look over your shoulder when your walking off....sad i know but i bloody love it!!!!!!!!

So I got it for what i think is a pretty good price £2700
its 2001 black sand job with 18k miles fsh (just had one) 12 months tax and mot. really clean..:thumbright:

but now after loads of cleaning and buffing its time to tweak a bit. ive done the fuel pump and got rid of the lead weight of an exhaust. but there are a couple of things that i would like to check.

The ride of the bike is fine and handles really well but the front seems really hard and bumpy i was comming back along the m27 past gosport and felt like i was on a bit of a bronko??......thinking of changing the fork oil back to std i also want to check the forks are straight as it feel like the fairing is out of line to the direction of the bike...fingers crossed nowt too bad..? any tips??

am i right in saying its 5w for std setup? also how much do i put in? haynes is vague on the later model.

next i have what seems to be common on this site after a bit of lurking that the clutch is a bit rattly.......is it worth having a look or shall i just get used to it??

(im scared about this one) 1st gear seems to wine up as i accelerate. is this normal? is not too loud or obtrusive but just thought it a bit odd on an 18k mile bike of the at's reputation??

are there any grease nipples on these things? the tenere was like a dairy cow hore house under the shock!!

sorry for the list of questions but hopfully i will soon be laughing at the inocense of another newbe and passing on all my new found wisdom borrowed from your guys :thumbright:

all the best and any tips welcome
 

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great bike!!! clutch rattle... mines the same, but when engage 1st gear disappears. been told that some almost new ones share the same erm.. character. will sort out one day!
Grease nipples.... later models lack them, some riders have modded their own, suspension linkage etc... drill & tap. 1st gear whine.. no idea. As all new members are informed if the front sprocket isnt welded on and the splines are ok, and your wheel rims are in pretty good condition most other qwerks (ie chokes sticking-leading to ****e running) are generally cheap and easy fixes and a good way to get an idea of the bike. Fork oil quantity.. dont know, will be changing my soon... somebody will chirp-up soon enough. Good luck and have a great summer, look on the calender for events, and check out ride-outs and meet-ups could be afew near your location. almost forgot see if theres some kind of group in your area in the community section , im lucky... theres afew riders in the northwest & we've got the lakes, lancs & yorks!
Good luck and have a great summer!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea heard about the choke......mines start without choke and runs fine but i guess if its stuck a bit i may not notice other than fuel econ being bad. i have not taken it apart yet to have a root around as im having too much fun riding! :eek:

i will take deep breath and do soon....should i take a deep breath and try doing valve clearences or not bother as its only 18k miles? looks a bit complicated for lil me...:angel5:
 

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well done! front fork oil capacity 648ml, and yes they prescribe 5W. the claim is that the level measured from top should be 106mm (the empty space above the oil) when i re-done mine it was not 100% accurate, so i just stuck with the amount of oil i put in. it could be that the previous owner stiffened the fork up with spacers and upped the oil level/grade, as i did with mine to 15w, as mine was to soft in front. i had to add 10mm of spacers before i was happy so check that.
if your gonna do a lot of ofroad, tapping in grease nipples is worthwile. the only other issue you have to look at that is contary to haynes, is your chain tension. give it more play than the claimed 4cm, up to 7cm, otherwise you will lose your driveshaft bearing. check for play on the bearing in anycase.
regulator/rectifyer original? check some threads on that issue, and either replace now, or keep a spare. its bound to give trouble, my original just blew and fried my new battery and could fry other electrics, check that charge rate is around 14.8v and no more! mine chucked out 23V and i was lucky to pick it up.
welcome to the house of fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool thanks for that... how does yours ride over bumps on the road with 15w? i might split the difference and go 10w :)

is there an after market rectifier (like the facet pump) that people reccomend or should i stick with the original type from the stealership?

thanks for the tip on the chain....i take it that would be 7cm without me on the bike?

thanks..
 

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check out some of the threads on reg/rec. sounds like there is a lot of advice on aftermarket ones that runs cooler, and therefore less prone to overheating. actually any reg/rec will work as long as you have the three incoming wires from the generator, and the four (older models has five) wires coming out. theres loads of advice from lads with much more knowledge than me, just run a search.
my front feels hard at speed on tarmac over bumps, but offroad responds perfectly and dont bottom out when loaded. its about personal comfort and how heavy you are when kitted and loaded. remember the bike is designed to carry weight at high speed on bad terrain, so the front has to be pretty solid. take her ofroad and do some steep declines with weight and see what happen before you adjust anything.
think the books say you have to sit on the bike to test chain play. get someone to help. i set mine by the book, then just moved the setting thing one click back and that seems to do the trick. just rather too slack than tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
blimey.....7cm of slack with me on it!!!! ok if you say so :p
 

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no, sorrryyy. my mistake, never trust these foreigners! just got the book out, and it says: put bike on side stand, put in neutral. check slack in the drive chain lower run midway between sprockets.
35-45mm. so double that.
 

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no, sorrryyy. my mistake, never trust these foreigners! just got the book out, and it says: put bike on side stand, put in neutral. check slack in the drive chain lower run midway between sprockets.
35-45mm. so double that.
That is the same for the Transalps as well.
The whine could be the chain is too tight.
 
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