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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:( Mmmm, pondering this one a bit as its doing my napper in so I thought I'd ask the assembled illuminatea for some advice...

I recently fitted Oxford heated grips to my @. All is well with them now that they have had some glue applied :D , but looking at the RH, (throttle) grip, it does not go on any further then the ridge on the inner plastic twist tube. The old honda one had a small flange that went over the ridge and sat inside the twist housing effectively sealing it. Now the problem - my throttle has gotten noticeably sticky in the last few degrees of rotation back forward to idle. So, I stripped it apart to check the cables - they are fine and the spring assistance nearly pulled me into the cable outer it was that strong.... So, thinks I, its got to be a lack of lube in the twister.....

But its not just that :evil: ! - sat still, engine not running, the throttle snaps back to idle like a good'un, engine running, same thing, ride the bugger - stops just that few degrees off idle, WTF is that all about?

Anyway - think I've got it narrowed down to the tightening of the bolts that clamp the outer case together/to the bars - If I dont go any further than just a 'nip' on the forward bolt all is as well as it can get....

Now for the questions - What do you lot use to lube it - someone has used spray grease in the past but this has just dried up and collected crud - I've used light multi-purpose grease for now.

Finally, anyone any ideas about the missing bit of grip - anyone noticed a problem with it? I think its got a lot to do with it as I ride in all weathers with an effectively un-sealed throttle twister.... I'm thinking of butchering the old grip and using it to 'extend' the Oxford one, unless anyone has any other ideas?....

I can get some photos as well if needed....

Cheers for taking the time to read my most lengthy and no doubt boring post to date.... :wink:

Bri
 

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sjk1000
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52 Posts
Bri
Just fitted the grips myself this last week and noticed the same gap. As you said, I butchered the old ones to fill the space which works pretty well. However, the throttle doesn't return to idling position now because of the friction between the the two. I'll put vaseline on when i come across some and I'm guessing that'll solve it. Can't help you with the squiffy return point am afraid. Noticed I've got more play in the throttle than i had before i started too. Tinker, tinker-tinker...
Steve
 

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Wing Commander
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14,437 Posts
Anyway - think I've got it narrowed down to the tightening of the bolts that clamp the outer case together/to the bars - If I dont go any further than just a 'nip' on the forward bolt all is as well as it can get....
Had just this problem myself. Mine did not fit together exactly the same way each time so basically it took trial and error to get it right. I found I could hold it all in place with the throttle working, but needed a third hand to tighten everything up while still holding on. With no third hand in sight it just took a few goes to get it right.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
Throw away the white nylon insert that the cables slide round and readjust the cable. Make sure the far end of the grip (away from the switches) isn't touching the handlebar.
 

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Premium Member
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7,170 Posts
Make sure the weighted bar-end isn't fouling the grip. I had this problem myself a while back.

For lubing the throttle parts I'd use white grease (Halfrauds have it, made by 3in1).


Bob
 

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BobA said:
Make sure the weighted bar-end isn't fouling the grip. I had this problem myself a while back.
b
BobA is right. If the bar-end is in too far it will F&*K things up and bind.
You should not use any type of lube that will attract dust and dirt as that will only make things worse down the road....which is just about any grease or oil.
Maybe try a dry silicone lube (mould release) in a spray can or a dry molykote lube which will leave a black dry coating everywhere.
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers guys, I'd already eliminated the bar-end - it makes no difference on or off..

Will have to get to grips with (geddit, eh geddit?...) the old grip and use it to fill the gap then might try the junking the nylon insert trick - anyone else done that?....

Ahh the joys......
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
stageonesimmo said:
Cheers guys, I'd already eliminated the bar-end - it makes no difference on or off..

Will have to get to grips with (geddit, eh geddit?...) the old grip and use it to fill the gap then might try the junking the nylon insert trick - anyone else done that?....

Ahh the joys......
My throttle cable did about 90,000 miles without the nylon insert after I got sick of never getting the throttle set just right so it shot back when released, unless I left the screws holding the casing slightly loose. I was initially worried that the cable would rub itself through and used to check it regularly but it was fine. It did a total of 130,000 miles (that includes the 40,000 with the insert in) and was still in full working order when I sold some of the bike last year. In fact it outlasted about 4 speedo cables and three clutch cables.
 

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Last of the Minoans
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1,503 Posts
Wow - I had no idea you could get away without the nylon insert. Wish I'd known, as it's a complete pain in the &rse to route the cables when reassembling the twist grip. On all my TAs and AT I've never aquired the knack. I have the same problem with the screws - too tight and the grip doesn't snap back. Sounds like it'd be better without.

I just left the flange on my grips (Hein Gericke re-badged Daytona grips) showing, but had to cut the outer end off (carefully so as not to cut the heating elements at the same time) because the rubber was catching on the steel of the bar, where the nylon inner grip doesn't quite go to the end. For lube I always use grease and take it off to clean when it starts to get stiff (oo-er!). That's why I need to reassemble the nylon insert so often of course, but it seems to be the best for actually getting it to work in the first place. I tried silicon spray, but it didn't work well for me. More often than not I find WD40 sprayed up the end with the bike left on the side stand and on full left lock is enough to free it without taking it apart, though. Odd that Honda just had the nylon tube rotating on the bare bar - I would have thought a second nylon tube would have been better, but I suppose it's down to cost and not making the grip too fat.
 

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Last of the Minoans
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1,503 Posts
Got round to lubing my cables yesterday and decided to follow Yen's advice - sure enough it runs far better without the insert, although it's possible to feel the cable running over the bar and casting. Worth it though, so thanks for that Yen (plus for the fact I don't have to go through the hassle of getting the casings together with the cable inners running properly.

On the downside I discovered water in the choke cables/on the plungers and the start of corrosion - they still don't seem to run properly (though I never use them, just connecting the lever can activate them leading to one being stuck if it's so inclined). I'll be disconnecting the cable next - also Yen's advice.

Stig
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
Lord Stig said:
Got round to lubing my cables yesterday and decided to follow Yen's advice - sure enough it runs far better without the insert, although it's possible to feel the cable running over the bar and casting. Worth it though, so thanks for that Yen (plus for the fact I don't have to go through the hassle of getting the casings together with the cable inners running properly.

On the downside I discovered water in the choke cables/on the plungers and the start of corrosion - they still don't seem to run properly (though I never use them, just connecting the lever can activate them leading to one being stuck if it's so inclined). I'll be disconnecting the cable next - also Yen's advice.

Stig
I'm starting to believe that the choke lever should have a little glass box around it and a small toffee hammer attached on a chain. Underneath should be a note in about 5 languages.

'Warning, in extreme cold, use hammer to break glass and activate choke lever. Honda accepts no liability if doing so ruins the rest of your ride when the bike reaches running temperature.'
 

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Last of the Minoans
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1,503 Posts
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Or better still, have a frame-mounted control where the water can't get in and there is no splitter. At least if we ever get a successor to the AT it will almost certainly have FI, meaning there won't be a traditional choke. On the other hand there will plenty of other problems associated with that for sure....

Stig
 

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YEN_POWELL said:
stageonesimmo said:
Cheers guys, I'd already eliminated the bar-end - it makes no difference on or off..

Will have to get to grips with (geddit, eh geddit?...) the old grip and use it to fill the gap then might try the junking the nylon insert trick - anyone else done that?....

Ahh the joys......
My throttle cable did about 90,000 miles without the nylon insert after I got sick of never getting the throttle set just right so it shot back when released, unless I left the screws holding the casing slightly loose. I was initially worried that the cable would rub itself through and used to check it regularly but it was fine. It did a total of 130,000 miles (that includes the 40,000 with the insert in) and was still in full working order when I sold some of the bike last year. In fact it outlasted about 4 speedo cables and three clutch cables.
Aaaahh, I'm not the only one that has trouble installing the plastic thinggy and setting the casing screws.

And I thought it was just me!!!

Phil
 

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Last of the Minoans
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Well now you know you don't need it. In hindsight I should probably have wrapped some tape around the bar before reassembly so that the cable can't be felt when opening up, but other than that I'm very happy. That white plastic thing is an absolute bvgger - after 13 years with these bikes I still haven't got the knack of getting it all back together easily. If it wasn't so tricky I probably would lube the cables more often. The other thing I used to notice was that adjusting the cable or sometimes just tightening the casing was enough to stop the assembly snapping back. What a design, eh??
 

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This maybe a bit late but I noticed that the throttle cable housing binds if you tighten the bolts evenly. You should first do the upper one and leave all the gap at the bottom. I'm sure that's intentional so that no rain can get in while condensation can drip out.

I greased the throttle mechanism last summer and noticed it at the time. The mechanism is still really smooth with nylon insert and all.

I have Daytona grips, and I completely cut the end cap out from throttle side to create clearance for the bar weight. Cut line followed the "all season grip" or whatever sticker. I can confirm that heating element does not cover the end area.
 
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