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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anybody fitted one of these to their domi if so which one. I think the one i fitted to the AT will do it but not 100% sure.
I've just fitted a volt meter to my bike and its pushing out 17.6v on tickover with nothing switched on, its ok with the lights on. I've compared it with my multimeter and its the same so i think i need to change it before it fries my battery
Checked the wiring and connectors and everything looks ok
Fred
 

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You should be able to fit any three phase reg/rec to your Dommie.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats what i thought bob i think ill take the one of my AT and try it and then order a new one if everything is ok thanks for the reply :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ok the reg rec arrived today after i got stung £23 import tax which took the price of it to £94 delivered. A bit of bad news is its not the one that was pictured in their add as it has 4 wires for the battery side of things not 2 but it doesn't matter as the 2 reds and 2 blacks are common to each other so only need to use 1 red and 1 black the other 2 are not used. the whole thing is larger than the standard one which means the mounting holes wider apart, the cables a twice as thick as the standard ones so should cope with anything i throw at it. my bikes not a standard one so there was no problem fitting it. More bad news with the bike running everything works great 14.2v on tickover and all ok with the lights and heated grips on but if plug my jacket in the voltage drops down to about 11.5v switch the lights off and it goes back up to 13v so i'm going to have to switch things on and off as i need it until i can find an up-rated stator

No photos yet Photobucket is off line at the moment
 

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Try a Deauville one or any of the Honda V twin 650/700's they should all make around 300w which should be sufficient for your needs.
 

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Fred. Import duty? Was it vat? I didn't think any duty is payable unless the value including shipping and insurance was 135gbp?

Hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fred. Import duty? Was it vat? I didn't think any duty is payable unless the value including shipping and insurance was 135gbp?

Hmmm
Yes it was VAT
Import VAT £10.80 and clearance fee £13.50
Strange thing is i've had 2 other deliveries from the states recently and no extra charge for them i think this is a parcel force money generating scheme as the other items came on a different carrier
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Chances are there are 4 wires for the dc for a reason. I'd connect them up .
Ive connected the DC side to the existing wiring for now got to pick up an in line fuse holder and then i'm going to wire direct to the battery so will connect everything together then i cant see the reason behind the 4 wires i got a low reading ohm meter and when i measure the resistance between the 2 reds or blacks its 0 ohm effectively a dead short. on the wiring diagram for the bike its intended for they are connected together in the loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Try a Deauville one or any of the Honda V twin 650/700's they should all make around 300w which should be sufficient for your needs.
Yes been looking at them but not at the moment, I've got to have the bike ready in a couple of weeks time so got to get it back together and give it a couple of shake down rides :thumbup:
 

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You might be well served to check you haven't got a short in the alternator.
Test for resistance between the three yellow stator wires, you should see the same value between any two of them.
Then (and this is the most important) check for resistance between the yellow and chassis, this should be open circuit.
I've seen several Honda alternators fail when one coil has dropped to earth.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Bob i checked that when i first found it was overcharging all good there. I'll see how it goes when i'm out on the weekend and just switch between things as i ride if i have to. Going to try out the ntv stator or similar but wont be for a couple of months.
Forgot to say the 3 pin plug with the yellow cables in plugs into the one on the loom only issue is the locking tab is on the opposite side so i put a small cable tie around them to stop them from vibrating apart just as a precaution
Photobucket was down last night for maintenance their need t change their software engineer it would only upload on photo and its slow as f . the other ones done now 30min trying to upload 2 photos great job photo bucket :mad:

This is the old and new together



And fitted

 

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There are 2 wires to reduce the volts drop in the wires when you are pulling 30 or more amps.

.1 ohm at 30A drops 3v and dissipates 90W. You'll need a special meter to read low ohm values. Chances are the cables are parallel tho but you halve the resistance and quarter the power dissipated in the cable.

Try another meter to read the voltage, if a MOSFET is putting out high volts you probably have a high resistance ac side preventing the reg shorting the stator out enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just for you Andy i braved the rain to get my continuity tester from my works van and tested again 0.01 ohm the .01 could be the resistance of wires a bad connection with the probes although i did zero it and retest a few times with the same result or it could be something in the RR :thumbup:
I will be connecting the 4 wires to the battery when i get an in line fuse and will compare the voltage between the two different ways of connecting it. The voltage meter is accurate enough its a Koso mini 3 and is pretty much spot on it reads 12.8v
My cheepy kewtec multimeter reads 12.86v
and my old robin reads 12.9v
I didn't get the new one i got in the van i seem to have a fleet of multimeters now, a year ago i only had my robin which i've had over 20 years its semi retired with a fading LCD screen :D
The RR is working fine if you only run what the bike came with the voltage drops when i add the heated jacket the heated insoles with the heated grips and lights on full beam switch the lights off or any other item and the voltage recovers quickly. The 20 year old alternator probably isn't putting out what its supposed to, on the weekend i shall measure the voltage coming out of it see if i can find some info on what it should be .
 

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You should only see 13A dc side until the volts drop then. Bearing in mind the battery wont start to charge until 13V ish and it runs at 14V ish atm. What sort of continuity tester is it? A MOSFET junction can have a lower resistance than 10mohm and a diode similar if forward biased, and each MOSFET will have a diode bridging it which will connect to more diodes...
Anyhoo I would guess the lines are paralleled.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The continuity tester is one of the calibrated testers i use in work to measure Insulation resistance and continuity of electrical circuits, I have a check box which is used monthly to test the ongoing accuracy of them in between their annual calibration, its basically a box of resistors ranging from 0.5 ohm to 10 Mohm
the continuity tester i used is my own i cant pronounce the make of it Chauvin Arnoux.
Anyhow I got the in line fuse from a place in Hereford today really helpful guy D&R motorcycles and only charged me a couple of quid its all fitted with a bit of luck the weather will be good enough for me to do some real tests:thumbup:
 

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I wondered about the continuity tester because of the low resistance meters I've used one had 4 leads, to measure resistance exclusively and a few continuity/insulation testers but they tended to use test voltages to high to be safe on electronics but fine on domestic supplies. Good kit the unpronounceable stuff, used megger more recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got the bike back together yesterday and had a few hours out on it the koso volt meter is great you can see exactly whats going on when you switch things on. with the lights off i can run the heated grips insoles and jacket without the voltage going below 13v with the lights on i have to switch the jacket off or the the grips since its only my hands and feet that get cold that will do me for next months activities then i shall look at changing the stator :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well i couldn't wait and when i got home tonight there was an alternator off an NTV 600 on my bench I went for the 600 because it was cheep and didn't want to spend allot on something that might not fit.
Its supposed to have a 345watt output its slightly thicker and you need the screws with it as they are longer, mine came bolted in the casing so i had all i needed.
Its not a straight forward fit but no real problem to do it.
first issue is the mounting clamp for the cable circled in the photo below it has to come off then there's the rubber grommet where it exits the casing there's two of them and you need to cut off the outer one both of them are too long and narrow but i found if you locate it in the opening when you fit the cover it squashes into the space and fills it i will be applying some Honda bond when i assemble it permanently, i just put it together dry to try it out,
next problem is the cables on the ntv one are less than half the length of the dommi one and the neutral wire is in with the alternator cables on the dommi one, neither was an issue for me as my RR is under the seat and i don't need the neutral wire so it all bolted up OK




Cut the grommet off circled in the photo below this one is around the sheath covering the cables where as the three cables pass through the other one individually making a better seal





I started the bike briefly to check the voltage at tick over with all the heated gear and headlights switched on the voltage was the same as the dommi alternator for a short while i was disappointed until i remembered it produces 345watts at 5000rpm so i get the revs a bit higher and the voltage starts t recover and settles around 13v not willing to rev my bike to 5000 rpm with no load i decided to wait until i ride it so its in pieces again while i wait for a new gasket to arrive. The results look promising :thumbup:
 
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