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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Worn out driveshaft (too expensive to repair)

Went to get new chain and sprockets fitted today since been putting it off for months. But disaster apparently the front drive shaft is too badly worn to replace the front sprocket and needs replacing but been told it would cost more than the bikes worth to replace the front drive shaft.

Apparently the rear sprocket had also near enough undone itself due to the front sprocket jumping about on the drive shaft and that the suspension is set on the softest setting so very bouncy.

The 2 option he said I had was either keep running it until it dies since it would cost too much to repair of do a temp fix by welding a new front sprocket onto the shaft and stiffening up the Hagon rear shock.

ANYONE on here able to fix a problem like??
 

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you got nothing to lose by welding it on really have you except a longer life for the old girl.
if you weld it on in three places you could even cut it off at a latter date when you need to change it again and weld on another.
Does that sound too easy, cos it is cost effective......:toothy10:
 

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OH and mig weld it it's stronger than arch, and less penetration so easier to grind off latter:cool:
 

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yet another Dave
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just cos your shaft is worn doesnt mean it wont last for years yet, its not an mot failiure or anything so unless it gets dangerous and starts spewing oil on your back wheel id run it into the ground then break it for ebay spares
 

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As per other threads, if you go down the welding route make sure you keep some water handy to keep the heat off the oil seal around the bearing otherwise you will have an oil leak and have to split the case to replace!!:(
 

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Bad luck mate:(.
If it was mine Id get it welded on , easy to remove with careful grinding and replace another sprocket.

if your front sproket last say 12k and you dont do that much milage then you should have a couple years out the old girl.:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
just cos your shaft is worn doesnt mean it wont last for years yet, its not an mot failiure or anything so unless it gets dangerous and starts spewing oil on your back wheel id run it into the ground then break it for ebay spares
Spent too much money on it to justify doing that. It's not leaking oil just a bit crunchy/jumpy gear changes at present.

Got a friend with an Arc welder who may be able to do it. I presume it only needs spot welding on to stop it moving about and easier to cut off later to replace the sprocket??
 

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yet another Dave
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Spent too much money on it to justify doing that. It's not leaking oil just a bit crunchy/jumpy gear changes at present.

Got a friend with an Arc welder who may be able to do it. I presume it only needs spot welding on to stop it moving about and easier to cut off later to replace the sprocket??
oh right so is it just the splines that are worn?
 

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I'm sure Stumpyfingers has a spare engine, dunno if it's for sale though :confused:

If you decide to weld the front sprocket on, MAKE SURE you weld a new one on, and that it is on the right way round!!!



Bob
 

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I'm sure Stumpyfingers has a spare engine, dunno if it's for sale though :confused:

If you decide to weld the front sprocket on, MAKE SURE you weld a new one on, and that it is on the right way round!!!



Bob
If you ask kindly, who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well decided to have a look and took pictures. It appears the front sprocket retainer thing has been put on wrong by last owner last so rather than lining it up properly with the sprocket holes they must of forced it on over the splines then bolted it down resulting in wearing the splines out. The Sprocket itself fits nicely if pushed back but since the retainer is loose due to no splines the sprocket soon moves out and wobbles around by 2-4mm. So could I take the retainer off put a weld around it then bolt it back over or can you get some sort of sprocket washers?



 

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(Mine was welded on for several months before it pinged off at the end of a fast, long day, two up, with full luggage and I discovered the truth. It was welded back by a bored Saffa for a week, then by an intense young Polish man who did a beautiful job and I didn't worry about it again.

Because of the danger of buggering the oil seal I'd avoid Doing It Yourself but put it in the hands of a garage you trust. The fact that the first thing the Polish bloke's boss said to me was that there was a chance the seal would be damaged gave me confidence they knew what they were doing.

Good luck.)


Having now looked at the pics, I think your garagiste may have been too gloomy. The splines themselves look OK and as I doubt you're going to be ragging it like a sports-bike, adequate to the task provided the sprocket sits in the right place (see posts below). Dunno what he meant about the rear sprocket though. :confused::confused:
 

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Grendel

I think I can see what the problem was caused by.

My personal opinion is that the sprocket that was removed was fitted the wrong way round, so the nice flange you correctly see on the outside of the new sprocket, was fitted inwards with the old sprocket. I think what happens when the sprocket is the wrong way round is, the chain is always trying to align the front and rear sprockets, so in effect, the chain would place a sideways force on the front sprocket and this causes it (or the retainer plate) to chew up the shaft.

I would avoid welding for now, as once you've done it, you're stuck with it.

Looking at that output shaft, I'd say it does have a bit more life left in it, but you will need to secure the sprocket somehow. I'm not sure, but would fitting TWO retainer plates (sandwiched together) put the sprocket in the right place on the shaft I wonder????? Worth a try for the couple of quid it would cost I reckon??

In theory, the retainer plate sits in a recess machined into the splined shaft, that is slightly wider than the plate. This allows slight lateral movement of the sprocket. The recess on your shaft is now much wider, but as long as there is enough good surface left on the shaft for the sprocket, all you really need to do is make sure it aligns properly. Is the damage to the shaft about the width of two retainers I wonder? As long as the outer surface of the retainer is in close proximity to the rear of the outer splines, the sprocket SHOULD be roughly in the right place on the shaft.

I hope that is clear, it is SO hard to describe what I actually mean!



Bob :thumbup:
 

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You could also do the great saver on the DRZs that is advised an that is red loctite your front sprocket on the shaft to minimise movement. Dont know if it would help, but just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was thinking of going the 2x new retainer plates problem is Wemoto are out of stock at present anywhere else i could get them besides David Silvers and there silly prices?

If i get a chance i'll take off the sprocket and have a proper look at the shaft tommorrow.
 

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I'm pretty sure that the retainers are quite cheap from Honda.

It's normally the splines that drives the sprocket that wear & give grief, I'd go with Bobs suggestion (by the way BOB WTF has happened to your avatar again - I've mentioned this to you before!) of fitting 2 retainers if they will fit, if not just fit 1, a bit of sideways movement is normal & as long as there is enough spline there to keep the retainer, all should be well.

Phil
 
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