[Windmill John]

Thought I'd mention this, even though sort of mentioned before.
I had to assist my mainstand with my foot to make it return.
So, having some time spare on Saturday, decided to regrease my stand.
Bearing in mind it's a 2006 model, i.e. not old, you wouldn't have thought it so hard getting the b****r out.
I'm a great believer in copper greasing the world, so here's my suggestions.
As soon as you find you have to assist your main stand, service it.
I have a spring puller, but it still didn't help when replacing stand.
So before you start the job, after you've removed the cotter pin, don't choose any drift, try and get a spare shaft, or a drift virtually identical to the original shaft.
Use this to drift out the shaft, once the shaft is out, it has been replaced by the temporary drift.
You can then clean up the original shaft and replace; after suitable greasing of course.
Hammer this back through, which will of course push the temporary drift out; replace cotter pin.
BTW, I didn't do this, but will next time
I removed the stand, cleaned it up, popped it back in, then tried to reattach the spring Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
So, I removed the stand, attached the spring, stuck a drift through one bit, laid myself in the strangest position under the bike, forcing the stand back in place, whilst I tried to get the shaft in....... Never again.....

 

[Lutin]

Well, that's one initiation rite out of the way.

Only another 11 to go.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

 

[Windmill John]

Even though you don't have to remove or move anything to remove the stand on the Transalp, I fitted a main stand to a Kawasaki ZZR a while back. In that case you had to remove the lower fairing, the exhaust system! disconnect the radiator! Doing all that was easier than doing the Transalp stand the wrong way

 

[StumpyFingers]

Tip number two, Get a spare Shaft and grease it up, do as above and just replace the nut and cotter pin, the shaft will be in backwards but should work until the dirt starts making the movement difficult, then just repeat with the original shaft that has been cleaned and greased.

 

[Windmill John]

Brilliant and speedy:thumbup:
I did think of buying a spare shaft for doing the job, never thought of just swapping them

 

[shack]

great idea, and spare shafts are available at a sensible price from where?

 

[StumpyFingers]

great idea, and spare shafts are available at a sensible price from where?

Seizing stands do happen and most times a shop will just replace the shaft, so i think it is possible to get replacements, I just do not know for sure where from,
David Silvers or Wemoto possibly.

 

[Mervinh]

It does not come cheap but Rocol sapphire Aqua 2 grease is good,it is waterproof, i got some to grease the bearings on the pallet truck that we used in constant salt water, i was told that pressure washing with plain cold water will not remove the stuff completely, there is still a thin film left after
Merv

 

[Windmill John]

I suppose you could just stick a vernier caliper on the shaft, take a measurement and pop along to a friendly engineering firm and get them to cut one from length.
Not sure if getting them to thread each end is a good idea and pop a nut on.....
BTW, I was going to keep quiet about this, but I chose to use copper grease rather than my lithium to lube the shaft. Yes I know that shaft turns in the mounts, but not much and I felt the copper grease would be more of a rust barrier.
I actually ACFd it first and wiped it down.