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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Got a XRV 750 RD07A from 2003 (49.000 KM on the clock)

I bought the bike back in July and the servicehistory is not present so i need to give it a BIG service before my trip (around europe).

My Honda mechanic have ask for a complete list of services/parts and this is where i need some help from you members of XRV.Org.

So far i have changed plugs, oilfilter, oil, airfilter myself but rest is up to my mechanic.

One thing i have noticed is that it needs new front/rear wheel bearings and proberly a valve ajustment.

Would anyone be kind to help me with a list of services + parts ?

Best Regards
Kasper Winding
Denmark
 

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Hi Kasper,

Very nice to hear of your proposed trip around Europe and I wish you well. I wish you joy.

Check and service the FUEL PUMP. The Africa Twin fuel pump has contact points that can and does wear away and can lead to a failure of the pump. Either, carry a spare pump or better still replace with a facet pump. Remember though, that in the event your pump fails and you do not have a spare, you can still connect your fuel hoses direct by-passing the pump and, provided you have a plenty of fuel in your tank (gravity and pressure), can manage to travel slowly to a garage or town.

The Rectifier / Regulator is prone to overheating and failure. The prime cause for this are poor electrical connections. If at all possible, replace the RR with a MOSFET RR. Nevertheless, all your electrical connections must be in top order. Spade and bullet clips must be inspected for oxidising and loose connections. I have removed whatever such connections I thought were problematic and have soldered them; I have had no problems since I did this. (Read up on how RRs work... the type that is factory-fitted does generate some heat anyway, but loose connections add to this and burn out the RR. MOSFET RRs run almost cold..)

Check and grease the head-stock bearings. Replace the bearings if required. You never realise just how bad the front steering is until you clean and grease the head-stock.

Check and replace the wheel bearings if required.

Check front and rear sprockets, and chain. If even slightly worn, I would strongly suggest you replace all three. The "old"set can always be used later. (Don't forget to regularly oil the chain...unless of course you have a Scott Oiler or similar..)

Check the rear wheel rubber dampers. If they look tattered, replace. Makes a massive difference to the ride quality.

Brake pads - put in a new set. As above, the old set can always be used later.

Replace brake oil with DOT 4 oil. Check throttle cable and clutch cable. Oil and lubricate well. Replace the Clutch cable if it looks dodgy. Better be safe than sorry.

Check fork oil. If discoloured replace 650ml with 10W rated oil, per fork. Check rear shock. You really should not be having any issues there.

Check the swing-arm links. IF the movement is stiff, you might need to lubricate and grease the bearings, which means you will need to remove the linkage system.

Inspect the complete cooling system. The thermostat is very reliable generally. HArdly ever fails, unless the rads have been lying dry for a long time.. Tighten all hose clips (not too tightly please...)

If your battery is an old one, I suggest replacing it. Its a real pain in the proverbial butt to bump start a big momma like the African Queen... :(

Also check the starter solenoid and clean and replace if required. It's a real pain in the proverbial .... you got it, right? :color:

The CDI and the ignition coils are very reliable. Just check the electrical connections and clean up and seal against moisture.

The ATs very rarely need valve adjustments. Still, its better to check and adjust (cannot exactly remember the values....) :(

If possible clean the carburettors. Years of running can result in build-up of deposits and cleaning the carbs is a good idea. Use a professional carb-cleaner cleaning agent for this.

IF you have not replaced your fuel filter in a while, replace.

After cleaning the carbs, synchronise them. The difference can be phenomenal! :D

If you are going to be doing a lot of off-road running ensure that you carry spare tubes and / or a patch kit for tubeless tyres. A small air-pump running off a power lead-out (a cigarette lighter type which you really must have on the bike) is mandatory. You can install one that has a USB socket too; that way you can charge your phone on the run!

Carry a GPS... at the very least it will log your journey with fantastic accuracy and you never know when you might need to navigate!! A handle bar mount is definitely recommended.

Carry some basic tools with you. Essentials are 23mm and 17mm wrenches for the axles, (preferably a set of tyre wrenches to lever out a tyre..) 14, 12, 10 and 08mm wrenches, good quality Phillips (better JIS type) and flat screw drivers, a set of pliers, preferably bent-nosed (for those fuel hose clips..), a paper cutter/knife, three each of all fuses required for the bike, some auto-grade electrical wire, a small roll of electrical insulating tape, a roll of DUCT TAPE (unbelievable uses..), a spare headlight bulb, 2 spare spark-plugs, a suitable cloth to wipe those greasy hands...,

OK... thats all I can think off right now. Preparation is the key; check your bike thoroughly prior to your journey. ATs are incredibly reliable and durable! They were built with endurance, reliability and durability in mind and with a heritage no lesser than the Paris-Dakar! I would wager a bet that you would have no issues with the bike (provided you inspect her thoroughly and replace and do what is required).

Happy touring and safe riding brother! May the Spirit of the great African Queen be with you always!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you for a very good and comprehensive guide. Very usefull.
I will list all the parts i find, just to be sure. (all the parts you listed)

Regarding the FACET pump, do i need different hoses or is it plug'n play ?

Again, thank you

Best regards
Kasper Winding
Denmark
 

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It should be "plug and play" .... a little bit of "plug and praying" too might help! LOL. Provided the hoses are the same sizes you ought not to have any issues.
 

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...and Kasper, the valve clearances for the RD 07 (1993 to 1995 models) are-


Intakevalves:0.13 to 0.17mm
Exhaustvalves:0.18 to 0.22mm

These should be the same for the RD 07A as well, as the engine is identical...
 
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