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Discussion Starter #1
I fitted new plates and springs to my RD03 clutch and it still slips in higher gears when the oil is cold :confused:
I've tried various oils but it doesnt seem to make much difference .
Has anyone else struck this problem ?
Is there a particular oil that might help in this situation?
I await your knowledgable replys with great anticipation :happy1:
 

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Any motorcycle oil will do providing they meet the API Service Classifications written on the container..SE, SF or SG.

I would avoid any automobile oil.
 

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did you change only friction plates, or a full set?

in what condition were the clutch basket tangs? is the clutch cable properly adjusted?
 

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Clutch springs? Has the clutch been slipping long? The springs may have lost their tension.

Take them out, measure their length and compare to a new set. If I was renewing the clutch I would put new springs in as a matter of course.

I assume it is correctly adjusted? A little bit of play on the actuator so the release mechanism isnt preventing full engagement?

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, I put a full set of plates and springs in and I've got slack in the actuator.
The tangs mmm ,dont remember, will check back on some photos and mabe post something up tonight.
The other thing that was different about it was that selecting neutral was easypeasy with the old clutch ,almost impossible with the new one first up but getting better with a few thousand k's on it.
 

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sounds the same symptoms i came across when car engine oil was put in my baby vara :banghead: .
correct oil did not fix it.
after stripping the clutch i found the oil had burnt onto the friction plates. new plates and correct motorcycle grade oil problem solved lesson learnt.
bloody expensive oil change:angry4:.
 

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Difficulty selecting neutral is very often clutch drag caused by too heavy oil, poor adjustment or as previously mentioned a worn clutch basket with serrated tang slots. If the wear is not too bad you could try dressing the slots with a file to smooth out the serrations. The car oil debate will rumble on here, I know you can pick car oils up cheaper but motorcycle specific (10w-40) is the way to go. I do not know if full synthetic could induce clutch slip, it can make bearings skid instead of rolling. So are the clutch plates in some bikes incompatible with fully synthetic I wonder. As well as stronger springs you could always put an extra plain plate (to act as a pressure plate) in if there is room in the basket. It's an old trick but sometimes it can cure the problem. Good luck.
 

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Just a thought did you check the new ones are exactly the same as the old ones when you stripped it down
Good luck sorting it
 

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Ok, spot the difference :oops:
If you see what Im talking about ,is it going to cause what I'm experiencing ?
I always take photos of stuff I'm pulling apart so's I can figure out how to put it back together again.... must have slipped up on this one !
Tighten the 4 bolts holding the springs down and you will be sorted but i already think you've noticed this:toothy7:
Any damage to the inside of the clutch cover
 

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Bling Tastic Transalp
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I know nothing about clutches BTW

I also noticed that the top plate, is fitted in a different way in the new clutch picture, .. ?? the cogs are not in the notches..

I have no idea if this would be causing the issue ..
 

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This is a diagram of how it should go together may be helpfull to you

 

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I know nothing about clutches BTW

I also noticed that the top plate, is fitted in a different way in the new clutch picture, .. ?? the cogs are not in the notches..

I have no idea if this would be causing the issue ..
Yout right LWR i just looked in the book and it does say to locate the outer plate tabs into the shallow slots:thumbright:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yout right LWR i just looked in the book and it does say to locate the outer plate tabs into the shallow slots:thumbright:
I didnt have a pic with the bolts done up but good spotting LWR ,
Those outer plate tabs , I know they are in the wrong place but I cant get my head round how they could cause slippage ?
Why do they have a special slot ?
The plates should still compress the same :scratch:
Unless someone can come up with a reason for it to cause problems I dont think it warrents stripping down just to move them into the correct spot.

On another note ,Ive been using 20/50 oil because she gets through a bit
but I didnt think that would cause it to slip ...should be the opposite shouldnt it ?
 

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geriatric
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It either comes out and the top one goes in properly or you're looking at a whole new clutch very soon,including basket and cage.
Did you replace the take up spring (the first and thinnest one that looks like a skinny pressure plate) because thats the expensive one and the one that will be killed for definite by the top friction plate not being locked in.
 

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On another note ,Ive been using 20/50 oil because she gets through a bit
but I didnt think that would cause it to slip ...should be the opposite shouldnt it ?
20/50 is fine...motorcycle oil that is. Is it petroleum or full synthetic?
 
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