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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The Honda OEM Standard Showa shock – has an 85 nm spring rate, 80mm travel on the piston ( I have been using 55mm of this), no adjustments apart from spring preload for ride height adjustment. The spring rate on any spring remains the same when compressed or unloaded

The standard shock is sprung correctly for a normal weight (70kg) solo rider but it is underdamped. When pushed hard the rear will wallow when solo riding. When loaded or two up the spring rate renders the shock undersprung and underdamped with very little travel left in the shock

Front forks – my set up is stock linear springs 7.5wt + 10 ml oil, reduced airgap

Static sag 820
Unladen sag 745
Laden sag 740

80 mm of 210 mm travel = 38%

Rear Shock as I currently have it

Static sag 630
Unladen sag 570
Laden sag 528

102 mm of the 210 mm travel = 48%

As you can see this is well past it’s use by date !! This is why I ride slow and steady

RD04 rear runs a stiffer spring as standard and handles much better than the softer sprung RD07/07a

Static 645
Unladen 612
Laden 575

70 mm of 210 mm travel = 33% (ideal range to be in for the rear)

After discussions about weights and terrain Nitron decided that the shock piston rod needed to be 16mm instead of 12mm as originally thought out and the shock body increased to 46mm from 40mm.

I took delivery of the new shock for testing and development and we have been working on loaded weights, spring rates and valving

Excellent quality workmanship and finish coupled with excellent service. The shock is serviceable.

P1050365.jpg

P1050362.jpg

P1050356.jpg

P1050354.jpg

Target market and benchmark Ohlins, Wilbur, WP, Sachs etc

Good range of adjustments 24 clicks as seen on the Ohlins shocks. The remote preload has 50 clicks and this equates to 9mm adjustment on the shock body increasing the rear by up to 50mm. This is useful when you are changing from solo unladen to two up loaded plus luggage. Service interval 12000 – 18000 miles

Spring and valving set up to suit what you will be doing with the bike i.e. two up, loaded, road work only might look at stiffer spring and valving to match whereas someone that might spend most of time solo and will take offroad will need a softer spring and valving to suit

The shock supplied came fitted with a 130 nm spring

Ride height adjustment

P1050357.jpg

Compression (Hi and Low) and Rebound damping (above pic)

P1050355.jpg

Remote Preload adjustment

P1050409.jpg

Initial delivered shock length was 9mm longer even with the ride height adjustment on minimum settings this raised the rear of the bike by 50 mm and the seat height to 930-950mm (where I sit) – this rendered the side stand almost in-operable

P1050351.jpg

P1050352.jpg

Sag settings

Static 630
Unladen 605
Laden 575

Maximum piston travel 25 mm (two adults bouncing up and down on the rear) of the 85mm available. This meant that the maximum travel would only have been in the region of 125mm

Initial testing found that the spring rating was way too stiff and was like riding a hardtail MTB – when I sat on the bike there was no sag that could be felt. Drive out of corners was excellent but at the cost of severe tyre degradation – chewed the edges even in the wet and losing 2mm off a Heidenau K60 in less than 400 miles!! With having no travel there was no way I would venture offroad yet

Next up was to have a spring more akin to the stock spring so we went for a 90nm similar to what the RD04 runs. This was accompanied by setting the shock length to match the shorter 380mm standard length of the RD07/07a shock. The bike is now back down to it’s normal height

Current sag settings correct spring but incorrect valving

Static 630
Unladen 595
Laden 555

75mm of the 210 mm available (I’m at the end of adjustment ranges to get to this)

Piston travel is now 65 mm of the 85mm available

Very planted – feels stuck to the road, tried it out on unknown roads through open countryside at pace and also tested on white lines and cats eyes along bendy roads in the rain and the bike tracked perfectly (front was a bit twichy but this is normal for this type of tyre in white lines and cats eyes banked over in the wet whereas the rear followed a perfect line)

Returned for a little bit more adjustment so shock off again and reset ride height on the shock leaving the remote preload untouched as yet

More confidence inspiring and a smoother ride and feels more like the RD04s more planted and nimble feel in corners, good turn in etc, I was able to use all the front and rear tread right to the edges in the wet – not had a chance to test it in the dry yet

Need to re-valve for the softer spring so that sag is in the correct zone and I have more range of adjustment

The remote preload gives 9mm of adjustment on the shock in 50 clicks on the adjuster so ample range to cope with increasing ride height following the addition of heavy luggage and / or a pillion

Well worth the investment and completely transforms the bike

Shock removal and fitting

If the bike has not had its shock removed and the bushes greased up on a regular basis it might be wise to get a set of bushes (good or new) before you start. Several days before removal ensure you spray all the bolts / nuts with WD40 / GT85 or similar

With the bike on the main stand get a tie down strap and use this to suspend the back wheel by looping through the spokes and over the rear rack. This will take the pressure off all of the bolts in turn as you remove them and can be adjusted each time

First remove the bolt on the link arm connecting the bottom knuckle bolt to the frame. Once the bolt is removed push the arm down towards the main stand and out of the way

P1050380.jpg

Next remove the bolts on the knuckle and the bolt on the bottom of the shock

P1050381.jpg

P1050382.jpg

Ensure the remote reservoir is free to be dropped through the swing arm with the shock when ready to remove

Using the tie down strap the rear wheel can be lifted up as high as you can get it leaving ample clearance to remove the shock

Lastly the top shock bolt can be removed and the whole shock removed downwards and out towards the back wheel and to the side

Fitting the new shock is the reversal of the above procedure

First check the two shocks are the same length 380mm to bolt centres

If you have remote preload adjuster feed the unit and pipe towards the rear of the bike. I removed the water coolant reservoir and fed the pipe behind this. The adjuster knob was passed through the hole in the plastic under tray and fastened to the bracket supplied that mounts to where the exhaust hanger is bolted to the frame

Easy peasy

Fitted pics

P1050383.jpg

P1050387.jpg

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There are rubber mounting s to rest the remote reservoire on and I had not taken a pic with them in place

P1050409.jpg

P1050410.jpg

A new mounting bracket for the Remote Preload Adjuster has now been settled on (as seen in the pictures) after trying different types and positions.

The shock has now been removed and will be revalved by Nitron to suit the softer spring

What you get

The shock will come pre-set from Nitron based on what you have told them regarding your rider weights and riding style including taking into account road / offroad or combined and loaded or unloaded. The spring rate and valving will be appropriate to give you full range of adjustments. Any adjustments can be followed easily from the instructions supplied

Initially I would say to ride the bike for 500 miles or so to get accustomed to the supplied settings and then make adjustments if necessary. Ensure you have the front fork oil refreshed / adjusted so that you can feel the benefit from the better rear shock

To aid the overall handling of the bike it is better to have the rear and front shocks balanced in terms of sag, travel, range and as matched as much as possible for compression

Lastly, if you use different tyres / wheels ie road set and off road set you may need to adjust the setting to take into account the tyres fitted (soft / hard compound), stiff or soft side walls and tread pattern etc. This will all depend on how hard you ride it. If you’re not flat out everywhere very little if any will need changing

I will update this thread when I get the shock back and refit for retest. Hopefully I will get to test this in the dry too!!

UPDATE

I got the shock back last week and fitted it one night prior to my trip over to the XRV Xmas Peaks weekend

Static sag = 630 mm
Unladen = 600 mm
Laden = 560 mm

70 mm of the 210 mm so a perfect 33% sag

Feels great too as the valving is perfect for the 90 nm spring. Handling on road is superb. Had a cold wettish ride over the Cat'n'Fiddle on Friday and the rear held perfectly exiting most corners and hairpins between 6500 and 7000 rpm then accelerating hard. The K60s did not break away but were close. Very planted and sure footed. Silky smooth ride on the road = comfort not normally associated with an AT.

The settings are mostly in the middle of their ranges

Rebound = -10, Comp Hi = -8 and Lo = -8




The shocks will be available through Rugged Roads

Home - RUGGED ROADS - Honda BMW KTM Motorcycle Accessory

UPDATE 16/7/2013

Went to the free enduro practice pay and play day at Cowm Quarry Whitworth at the weekend with some lads from ABR and some others including David on the DR350 we bought off Cabbage. Mike was on his new KTM950 SE, Felco on the CRF450 and Nibby and Paul on 690 Enduros

What a great place and the Marshalls were great too – I followed them around for 2 and a bit laps then off for a free play. There are many tracks, a moto cross track and many trials sections. We were warned of the slippiness on the MX track due to the very dry weather. It operates a 1 way round system for safety.

There are two enduro routes being Green (supposedly easy) and Red (difficult) mostly running alongside each other. I guess in the context of running 60kg trials bikes and 100kg crossers / enduro bikes that would be accurate – putting a 242kg AT shod with MITAS E10s was hard work

I managed 4 laps of the green before my engine temp got right up into the hot zone and the fan would not kick in. You’ll be pleased to know (and so was I) that I managed to make it without dropping it.

I am also still recovering with the ankle injury from the Pyrenees (yes, in the end I had it checked out and I had broken it – didn’t help walking on Snowdon with the Vendy family or riding up at the V-Twin V Bomber weekend)

So how did the shock perform? It was excellent and I had grip everywhere. I ran the tyres at 18psi front and 20psi rear. At the end when I went to pump them up the rear still had 20psi but with the pounding the front got it had 13psi in it. Fuel load would have been about a 1/3[SUP]rd[/SUP] of a tank as I had done 140 miles before starting the laps and those 4 laps were 23 miles in total. Very pleased with the shock and a worthwhile investment.

On one section near the start there was a 45 degree drop into a bomb hole followed by a tight right turn at the bottom and then up and out again with a tight left turn at the top. I say tight for a bike as I was riding – I ran the DR350 round and it was much easier. On my 4[SUP]th[/SUP] lap I went down in 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] to clear the top of the entrance as the bash plate would catch if I went in slower. Anyway I had knocked it into neutral as I found out rolling part up the hill with no drive. Managed to stop and slide it backwards down the rocks and dry sandy mud. A couple of Marshalls stopped at the top and one at the bottom to see if I would get up. From a standing start in 1[SUP]st[/SUP] the bike went up with grip all the way in a controlled manner and I made the turn at the top because I was going slower than the other times.

On some of the long rocky sections and climbs the bike floated nicely apart from the bash plate constantly catching on the rocks.

Next job will be to sort the front end out as there is clearly a miss match.

Below is a clip of one lap of the green route that someone else took on the day. The camera is not in the best position but you get the idea of what I took the bike through. The only two bits I missed out were the lorry trailer and the high grassy bit. Did some more climbs following the Marshalls that I don’t see in this but some pics of the lads going up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCl3BI_7XiM

Another vid with both red a green routes and no I did not travel at this speed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=kbrZJdORikA&feature=endscreen

That’s all for now

Mike, Felco and Nibby on some of the green sections. Nobody got any pictures of me because I was slow!

4_2013-07-14.jpg 6_2013-07-14.jpg 2_2013-07-14.jpg
 

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Registered
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Well done Paul. Nows where is my piggy bank! Always thought the 04 handled better than the 07s. Keep having a go on Bobs and thinking how good it feels.
 

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Hill Rider
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And theres me just gone and bought a nearly new original Honda shocker for my @ :happy7:

Very nice piece of work there Paul, doubtlessly aided by your skilled rider input :rolleyes: :thumbright:.

Now, what sort of impact will one of these babies hit my wallet for?

Steve T

:cool:
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well done Paul. Nows where is my piggy bank! Always thought the 04 handled better than the 07s. Keep having a go on Bobs and thinking how good it feels.
Thanks Tony

It's much sharper due to the extra ride height and stiffer spring - I found this too after my first ride on my RD04
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #5
And theres me just gone and bought a nearly new original Honda shocker for my @ :happy7:

Very nice piece of work there Paul, doubtlessly aided by your skilled rider input :rolleyes: :thumbright:.

Now, what sort of impact will one of these babies hit my wallet for?

Steve T

:cool:
Thanks Steve

I don't know what price ranges there will be yet

There are, as I understand it, 3 shocks in the range that might be used, an emulsion shock, a shock with remote reservoire and the one I tested

All shocks, as I understand it, can have the Remote Preload Option

All will have compression and rebound damping - which is something the stock shock lacks

The difference in the other shocks is just the range of fine tuning you might want / need (fine tuning as in 10th of seconds per lap)

The main structure is more or less finalised now and a range of valving and spring rates is more realistic instead of guess work
 

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Thanks Steve

I don't know what price ranges there will be yet

There are, as I understand it, 3 shocks in the range that might be used, an emulsion shock, a shock with remote reservoire and the one I tested

All shocks, as I understand it, can have the Remote Preload Option

All will have compression and rebound damping - which is something the stock shock lacks

The difference in the other shocks is just the range of fine tuning you might want / need (fine tuning as in 10th of seconds per lap)

The main structure is more or less finalised now and a range of valving and spring rates is more realistic instead of guess work


Thanks Paul, very well done. I will be going down the route of a new shock Nitron or Ohlins but the one thing i don't wan't to do is raise the seat height, so i will wait and see how your final test turns out first.:thumbup:
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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6,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks Paul, very well done. I will be going down the route of a new shock Nitron or Ohlins but the one thing i don't wan't to do is raise the seat height, so i will wait and see how your final test turns out first.:thumbup:
Thanks Nigel

The seat height is back to where it should be. It was the shock length that was too long and now with the correct length and spring it's perfect

The only change I'll see is in the damping range - once revalved there should be no changes to the set up we have now, just more scope to play when off road

As it is it is a million times better than the tired stock shock I had on
 

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Thanks Nigel

The seat height is back to where it should be. It was the shock length that was too long and now with the correct length and spring it's perfect

The only change I'll see is in the damping range - once revalved there should be no changes to the set up we have now, just more scope to play when off road

As it is it is a million times better than the tired stock shock I had on


Thanks Paul,

So it's going to come down to price, i can see looking at your photos it a very good quality shock i'm going to guess there won't be a lot between Nitron and the Ohlins ?? Do we know when the Nitron will be available.
 

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Good work Paul.Looks like a good replacement. I fitted an Ohlins to mine a while back and agree that good suspension & set-up is well worth the time and money. I also had a feller in the states make me a set of custom springs for the front which cost around a Hundred Merican Dolores Stormforce8 did all of the paperwork if anyone is interested.
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Paul,

So it's going to come down to price, i can see looking at your photos it a very good quality shock i'm going to guess there won't be a lot between Nitron and the Ohlins ?? Do we know when the Nitron will be available.
They should be ready to go but you'll need to speak to Jonathan to see here they are
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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6,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Good work Paul.Looks like a good replacement. I fitted an Ohlins to mine a while back and agree that good suspension & set-up is well worth the time and money. I also had a feller in the states make me a set of custom springs for the front which cost around a Hundred Merican Dolores Stormforce8 did all of the paperwork if anyone is interested.
Thanks Mel
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #13

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excellent write up waiting for this for ages

still have upgrade mine and deciding on the gas shocks or one with remote comp is hard part

you get any offroading done

the rear height adjustment, is it 7mm as in +3mm and -3mm either way?
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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6,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
excellent write up waiting for this for ages

still have upgrade mine and deciding on the gas shocks or one with remote comp is hard part

you get any offroading done

the rear height adjustment, is it 7mm as in +3mm and -3mm either way?
Only fire road type track at present for off road

If you are going to be spending many hours run time the separate chamber is the way to go as the chance of fade is virtually nil. The separate one also separates compression and rebound, whilst the combined shock has an auto adjust compression / rebound

Rear height adjustment at the bottom of the shock has not been tested yet and is set at minimum at present. You have a further 9 mm on the remote preload, which I know you won't want from our last conversation

Are you able to keep yours?
 

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Only fire road type track at present for off road

If you are going to be spending many hours run time the separate chamber is the way to go as the chance of fade is virtually nil. The separate one also separates compression and rebound, whilst the combined shock has an auto adjust compression / rebound

Rear height adjustment at the bottom of the shock has not been tested yet and is set at minimum at present. You have a further 9 mm on the remote preload, which I know you won't want from our last conversation

Are you able to keep yours?
dont know yet, hope hear from bank next week on loan extension for insulation, flooring and new stove

from nitrom themselves they said tis not a gas/oil mix it seperated or even just a gas only shock

but yes if money allows i will be keeping bike and getting shock. just have check if can stretch to the one with remote canister

build quality from pics looks way better than the wilbers i had on another bike

shock i get though i dont plan doing any changes ot it or fiddle with it. might adjust the rie height to match the forks thats it. be fitted and maybe once year knock up the preload when have luggage but 90% be solo off and on road

either way this i guess will be huge improvement over stock off road
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter #17
dont know yet, hope hear from bank next week on loan extension for insulation, flooring and new stove

from nitrom themselves they said tis not a gas/oil mix it seperated or even just a gas only shock

but yes if money allows i will be keeping bike and getting shock. just have check if can stretch to the one with remote canister

build quality from pics looks way better than the wilbers i had on another bike

shock i get though i dont plan doing any changes ot it or fiddle with it. might adjust the rie height to match the forks thats it. be fitted and maybe once year knock up the preload when have luggage but 90% be solo off and on road

either way this i guess will be huge improvement over stock off road
It will be much better

I hope things go OK and you can keep the bike

take care and ride safe
 

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Deer Dodger
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Brilliant Paul :thumbup:

Thanks for the write up, appreciate you taking the time.



Maybe that's what's wrong with my 90k mile shocker :D

I shall have to replace at some point I guess, but to be honest, it hasn't bucked me off yet and I've been through a few dodgy off road situations ;):D:D
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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Did i miss the bit about how much they cost? just considering one for the next time i replace the one on the Varadero. Mine packed up a good few years back now so probably won't be that long before she's due for a new one again which will be either an Ohlins, Custom Hagon or possibly one of these.
Last time i replaced it with a standard Honda shock but sometimes think i would have been better with a different one
 
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