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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
External leaks should be obvious enough with this sort of consumption levels (assuming you clean your bike more than I do). Check at least one sparkplug of each cilinder: If there is a lot of light coloured debri on them or even plain fresh oil, it's probably oil being burnt in the engine. Not necessarily a sign of an upcoming complete restoration, could maybe just be piston-rings or valve-stem guides (it that's the right term).

Also check airbox and engine-breather hose. If that is full of oil, the vacuum of the inlet somehow sucks in oil or oil comes through past a leaking valve. Check the engine pressure.
Oil can even be pushed out past a leaking rear rocker cover gasket into the engine breather hose (breather tunnel goes through here) or even too thin oil can do this, like a run-down 5W40 that has been used too long and therefore has lost its viscosity adjustment. These last options sound highly unusual but happened to me. However, these symptons are unlikely to cause these sorts of consumption, but still worth checking before rebuilding the engine. Don't forget, these engines are known to run 100.000+ miles without needing major work. In theory...
 

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Hi,
Is there Oil under the engine, if yes then likely cause is the final drive shaft oilseal, these can fail along with the associated bearings etc.by overtightening the chain!
If there's no oil on underneath it, then it sounds like worn or sticking piston rings are the problem.
Do you see blue smoke coming out of the exhaust ?
You could do to check the compression.
Hope the above is of some help
Cheers
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good luck!
Don't forget when testing the compression the engine is warm (no false readings due to thick cold oil sealing something off) and ideally loosen or take the carbs off to make leaking inlet valves more obvious (fully opening the throttle during testing could help a bit as well I suppose, not sure though to what extent a CV carb will open up doing this?).
And of course make sure the battery is fully charged otherwise the readings may be too pessimistic.
Just as interesting as the absolute value you measure (should be between 11-15 bar at 400 rpm, or 157 - 213 psi) is the difference between the two cilinders: it could give you some clues whether the engine has an isolated problem to one of the cilinders or is in a "overall poor state".

Let's hope it's not all that serious after all :flower:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
boussog1 said:
Thanks a lot for the tips robelst! Will get back to you with my findings.

Thanks again!
Oups, forgot: If you measure low compression, squirt a bit of fresh (cold) oil in the cilinder through the sparkplug hole and measure again. If you don't notice any difference it is probably a leaking valve (or maybe head gasket), if it does, it's almost certain piston(ring) related, because the added oil will help sealing it off.
 
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Plz do let us know if you find a solution since I got my TA doing the exact same thing and I'll rebuild my engine next winter if I can't find anything else.... :(

/Zappa
 
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