Performance air Filter
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What are you getting for this loss in fuel consumption, I would only guess that any improvement in power would be minimal. It could however make the bike a bit smoother at lower speeds.
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is your bike fuel injected or carb model ? I don't know too much but from what I gather with a fuel injected engine there is no increase in power with a performance filter . I saw a show on youtube where they tried 3 different cars on the dyno with 3 different air filters a stock a performance and an external air intake snorkel type thing with the cone shaped k&n style pod . there was no difference so what I gathered from it is if you want more speed buy something faster . if you want to be the fastest buy the fastest . with a carb engine I think with a change of exaust pipe air filter carb needle and jet it is possible to increase performance but with fuel injected bikes a power commander is necessary and then exaust cans and air filter to allow better air flow . very expensive to do and not worth it on a varadero as its huge bulk restrict its potential to safely put the power on the ground and anyway it would destroy the fuel consumption . Honda fixed the varadero's only real issue its legendry thirst for fuel so why go ruin it again and lighten your pocket at the same time . otherwise the only advantage is a k&n type filter is washable and possible to save money over a long time or a lot of miles by which time the bike should be well knackered and worth very little anyway .
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327 Posts
Alias....like reading your replies...always fun or sensible advice.....
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thank you very much for the kind words Andy :thumbright: I was just thinking one of our Varadero riding members I think it was Firedero ? fitted the carburettor's and camshafts from a firestorm to a carb Varadero turning it into a bit of a beast
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477 Posts
Hi guys, I too started with filters & exhausts. Be warned though, it's a slippery slope :wink:
Once you realize what can be gained there's no going back.
I run a carburetor model & over the years this is what I learned.
Air filter = A majority of the guys on the Vtr1000.org complain about running issues (flat spots) with high flow, K&N/Pipercross etc. filters. I have made & ran a homemade high flow filter (standard plastic filter carrier/base with the paper element cut/swapped out for a section of "Ram-air" foam). It ran with no issues but I doubt it's better than a standard new oem paper item tbh..
Exhaust = Oodles of lovely V twin noise & it sounds much beefier & faster, but I doubt it really is. The noise, oo.. the noise is fab.
VTR carburettor swap = Very noticeable improvement in acceleration up to around 6000rpm then it stops & revs for reving's sake. This is because the Standard Varadero camshafts are limiting the upper rev range power. I liked this modification a lot & because of the increase in acceleration & how I rode it, well it drank fuel. Use standard VTR jetting, you'll not be far off perfect.
VTR camshaft swap = Unbelievable improvement everywhere in the rev range, extremely easy, cheap & a very significant upgrade. They must of known something, as even the Haynes manual won't state the camshaft differences. I feel safe to say it's an essential modification for the Varadero. This as well as the carburetor swap is the ultimate sleeper mod.
Lightened Flywheel = Great improvement to acceleration & throttle response, feels similar to riding off from having just dropped off a heavy pillion.
VTR Dynojet kit = The main jets are different to oem items, they are longer & therefor sit deeper in the fuel bowl. Similar to adjusting float bowl float heights. It's the main reason you can't mix them with standard Keihin jets. The needle profile though is extremely close to a standard VTR profile, but with the bonus of grooves which enable you to raise & lower the needle to get the perfect mid range mixture.
Word of warning about purchasing VTR carburetors. Look for low mileage items.
I spent a lot of Dyno time, money & effort to set up the perfect air fuel ratio of around 12/1 with the Vtr carbs & I failed.
I came to the conclusion that the needle jet which is pressed in to the carburettor at the factory wears to an oval & constantly gives a rich mid-range afr.
I tried to overcome this by lowering the Dynojet needles but this caused an over lean issue elsewhere.
I've even filed my own needles, which have come close but it was costing me too much at the Dyno so I stopped..
Hope I've not bored you too much by banging on, it's been a trip down memory lane tbh.
Good luck :thumbright:
Once you realize what can be gained there's no going back.
I run a carburetor model & over the years this is what I learned.
Air filter = A majority of the guys on the Vtr1000.org complain about running issues (flat spots) with high flow, K&N/Pipercross etc. filters. I have made & ran a homemade high flow filter (standard plastic filter carrier/base with the paper element cut/swapped out for a section of "Ram-air" foam). It ran with no issues but I doubt it's better than a standard new oem paper item tbh..
Exhaust = Oodles of lovely V twin noise & it sounds much beefier & faster, but I doubt it really is. The noise, oo.. the noise is fab.
VTR carburettor swap = Very noticeable improvement in acceleration up to around 6000rpm then it stops & revs for reving's sake. This is because the Standard Varadero camshafts are limiting the upper rev range power. I liked this modification a lot & because of the increase in acceleration & how I rode it, well it drank fuel. Use standard VTR jetting, you'll not be far off perfect.
VTR camshaft swap = Unbelievable improvement everywhere in the rev range, extremely easy, cheap & a very significant upgrade. They must of known something, as even the Haynes manual won't state the camshaft differences. I feel safe to say it's an essential modification for the Varadero. This as well as the carburetor swap is the ultimate sleeper mod.
Lightened Flywheel = Great improvement to acceleration & throttle response, feels similar to riding off from having just dropped off a heavy pillion.
VTR Dynojet kit = The main jets are different to oem items, they are longer & therefor sit deeper in the fuel bowl. Similar to adjusting float bowl float heights. It's the main reason you can't mix them with standard Keihin jets. The needle profile though is extremely close to a standard VTR profile, but with the bonus of grooves which enable you to raise & lower the needle to get the perfect mid range mixture.
Word of warning about purchasing VTR carburetors. Look for low mileage items.
I spent a lot of Dyno time, money & effort to set up the perfect air fuel ratio of around 12/1 with the Vtr carbs & I failed.
I came to the conclusion that the needle jet which is pressed in to the carburettor at the factory wears to an oval & constantly gives a rich mid-range afr.
I tried to overcome this by lowering the Dynojet needles but this caused an over lean issue elsewhere.
I've even filed my own needles, which have come close but it was costing me too much at the Dyno so I stopped..
Hope I've not bored you too much by banging on, it's been a trip down memory lane tbh.
Good luck :thumbright:
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