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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's OK, you can come out from behind the sofa now....

OK. Here are some pics of my corroded rear :D.

There are about 3 patches of corrosion on the inside of the rim, concentrating, predicatbly, around the spoke and valve holes. I have photographed the worst ones. The bigger area is by far the worst offender, but you'll see from one picture that the thickness at the valve is still well over 3mm. (about 3.75mm as measured with the trusty stick and thumbnail gauge method).

I'm starting to think epoxy glue followed by lacquer should suffice after all....
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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About the same as my rear, interested in what people treat it with;)
 

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I wouldn't bother replacing that - and I'm pretty fussy when it comes to replacing stuff. It looks a bit crusty but not in need of urgent replacement.

Remove the roughest stuff, douse it with ACF 50 and then let it dry off for a day so it goes really sticky. Fit a decent quality rim tape over it and treat around the spokes and the valve stem with ACF50 when it's back together to stop the water getting in.

It should last ages like that without issues. Check spoke tension occasionally as the signs of it getting really bad are spokes loosening and pulling through the rim. This rim is nowhere near that bad.
 

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Surely you have rubbed it down a bit of kurerust or someting an a lick of paint would sort it. By the pic it still lookss strong
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Duly ACF'ed and now drying off.

Will use the original rim band, as well as a couple of layers of that thick, wide silver packing tape that has the thread in it for strength.

Then tyre on and off we go!!
Cheers all!:cheers:
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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It's OK, you can come out from behind the sofa now....

OK. Here are some pics of my corroded rear :D.

There are about 3 patches of corrosion on the inside of the rim, concentrating, predicatbly, around the spoke and valve holes. I have photographed the worst ones. The bigger area is by far the worst offender, but you'll see from one picture that the thickness at the valve is still well over 3mm. (about 3.75mm as measured with the trusty stick and thumbnail gauge method).

I'm starting to think epoxy glue followed by lacquer should suffice after all....
Rear wheel on my xr was like that i just used a wire brush to get rid of most of it then the dremel to get rid of any rough bits that might give punctures, one thing that doesn't help if they are in that state is using fairy liquid to fit tyres as the salt in it attacks the alloy and corrodes it further
 

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Stone Crazy
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just had the front wheel off my vigor and that is going like that around the valve hole
Attacked with drill and wire brush to get the cruddy bits out,then dremmeled the sharp edges, painted with alimnium paint and dropped it into the bike shop for new tyre to be fitted
Merv
 

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Clean up and coat with epoxy resin or similar.

Once corrosion has got under the anodising you ain't going to stop it, at best you can slow it down a bit, so extra tape on rim to protect the tube is a good idea. Next time tyre is off remove the tape and repeat the clean up procedure.
Yes the tape will have flakes stuck to it, but better stuck to the tape than poking through the inner tube.:thumbleft:
 

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If you are sure the rim is OK other than the area you show try some Plastic Padding filler to smooth it out then fit new rim tape.
 

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Just for your info in case you need one, there is a gold front wheel just been listed on ebay, i've just purchased the rear as mine had corroded around Spoke holes and failed it's MOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you are sure the rim is OK other than the area you show try some Plastic Padding filler to smooth it out then fit new rim tape.

Although the surface is rough, it has no sharp edges, so it should be OK witht the two rim bands.
 
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