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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone got some tips etc on best way to replace the Pulse Sender please ?

Mines playing up more often now, wouldn't start after filling her up for ten minutes today, which its never done before :rolleyes:

I already have one, had a feeling it would need it sooner or later after reading similar tales here and there
 

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Have you tested it? Spec is 420-520 Ω at 20°C
It could be the CDI starting to go out as well, symptoms are similar.
Replacement is easy but will probably need a clutch cover gasket, the two pin plug is on the left side of the headstock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks
No I haven't tested it or even started to get to it just yet
I haven't as I was under the impression it can break down with heat / age and come back to life when it cools ??
Anyway, I have only just changed my oil and filter, is it possible to take the side cover off replace the sender without disturbing or having to redo the oil change ??
 

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Removing the clutch cover will let the oil out, on the bright side you can check the oil screen while you are in there.
Its underneath the clutch assembly, held in by an 8mm bolt.
Drain the old stuff into a clean container and reuse it.
Pulsers can go but I'd be thinking that the CDI may be suspect #1 if its original.
 

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Thanks
No I haven't tested it or even started to get to it just yet
I haven't as I was under the impression it can break down with heat / age and come back to life when it cools ??
Anyway, I have only just changed my oil and filter, is it possible to take the side cover off replace the sender without disturbing or having to redo the oil change ??
If you lay it on its side you wont loose oil when the cover comes off most of it is in the frame anyway so there's not much in the engine :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Removing the clutch cover will let the oil out, on the bright side you can check the oil screen while you are in there.
Its underneath the clutch assembly, held in by an 8mm bolt.
Drain the old stuff into a clean container and reuse it.
Pulsers can go but I'd be thinking that the CDI may be suspect #1 if its original.
Thanks, I did replace the CDi last year, new but not genuine
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you lay it on its side you wont loose oil when the cover comes off most of it is in the frame anyway so there's not much in the engine :thumbup:
Thanks, that might work, I might try leaning it over some, but, on its side ? lol, I'm not as young or as strong as I used to be
 

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My bike cut out at a mini roundabout and wouldn't start. By the time the RAC arrived it started. A few weeks later it started to play up, cutting out as I was riding with the revs dying. Then the revs were jumping about a bit.

I purchased a CDI from ebay, black one with the green plug. It worked at first but then didn't. I tried the old CDI and it fired up first time. Sadly I tried to take the CDI apart and made a balls up.

A second replacement CDI from ebay and the bike sill didn't work. I ordered a low mileage original one from the US and the bike fired up fourth attempt after a few weeks out of action.

Just received an original secondhand CDI from ebay UK and that also fires up fine.

If you was closer I would let you plug one of mine in. I would test the pulse sender as suggested but am going to suggest your issue is the CDI especially if using a non original one.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats interesting
My CDi is about a year old and has improved the bike since fitting
Of course I dont know why mine wouldn't start the other day, but, after it did start it took me 35 odd miles home without a problem
Not tried to start it since so far
New genuine CDi is about £240 :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Well, i already have the Pulse Sender, new cheapo coil, new spark plug and cap, which i intend to fit soon and other jobs depending on time and weather
Then go from there
 

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I wouldn't pay that price for a new one. I got a low millage one from the US for £52 delivered but had to pay £18 custom charge on top of that which I didn't think was too bad.

Got another of ebay for £33 delivered. I think that bike had about 20k on i which was lower than what mine had. I did almost 20k on my original CDI which came with the bike. Assuming that was original it had already done 29k.

Reading a large number of sites some people say these things last others say the CDI breaks often. The best source of information I find is the XR650L threads as these seem more common.

I use to be scared to order parts from the US but not any more. These days I order items from Australia, Japan and America for various hobbies that I do. Most of the time custom charges come in a lot cheaper than buying a similar item from the UK.

If any one does buy from abroad talk to the seller first confirm the postage on ebay is correct.

There is a brand new CDI on ebay at the moment from the US for less than £100 genuine.

I'm still eventually going to go for a Ignitec one, people say these are more reliable. Just wanted the Genuine Honda one as I know my bike works with that one.

Only pottering around with my bike at the moment, wired the spots back in the other day but still need to tidy the wiring and re do the loom tape. Need a lo more cash before I do the big tear down. Just spending a lot of time researching various pars of my refurb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I spent all day today, working on the bike

I replaced the Pulse Sender and checked the oil filter thing, that was clear as a bell, thankfully

Not a quick or easy job

Anyway, I also changed the spark plug and cap, but, didn't put my cheapo nasty replacement coil on as the wiring isn't a direct swap

So, after checking for spark, which was there, but, not quite as strong looking as I hoped, I started it, started easier, but, still after getting hot struggles to tick over ? Gradually gets slower then stalls :rolleyes:

So I do need a new air filter, but, where do I get A coil with the correct wiring ??
 

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Bungle.

I'm no expert here but I've just had issues with mine cutting out when hot and not running.

Changed the coil, plug and cap and checked the spark before installing the plug and still got a weak spark.:mad:

Took the cap off, stuck a nail in the ht lead and got a huge spark when turning it over. That puzzled me!!!! put it all back together and it works great.

As far as I can tell (Repeat I'm no expert but a bit of googler) it is the OME plug and cap both have resistors (about 5ohms each) so weakens the spark visually.

That would explain your weak spark but not the drop in revs and stalling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Ian
What is this OME plug ? and what did you do to fix it ?
 

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OME is just original manufacturers equipment, the one Honda recommend and the same quality as the original.

I’m not sure what fixed mine but I think it was either the plug or the cap. However on route to fixing it I had cleaned the carb in my ultrasonic cleaner, drained and flushed the tank replaced the coil and none of that worked, but all needed doing.
Finished off with the plug and cap and hey presto.

I’m glad as the only thing left was the cdi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
But was there something that improved your spark in the ebd ?

I still have the carb to do, not looking forward to that at all, I thought if and when I do the carb, I only want to do it once, so I got an inlet rubber manifold to go on just in c ase
Was your membrane ok ?
I did my tank and in tank strainer / filter last year, it was fine, but, you have to check
Looks like I have to my front caliper now too :( its sticking
 

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I think it was just old dirty connections on the resistor in the cap that killed it.

The carbs’ not so bad, just getting the manifold bolts out takes a bit of time. The carb can only really go back together one way, just put everything safe. The diaphragms are quite robust, mines the original and perfectly fine.

How sure are you that the cdi is good?

The brakes can wait
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I put a new non genuine one on last year, improved the bike straight away, specially mid range

Trouble is got to think MOT it runs put in a few weeks
 

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:rolleyes: CDI - The replacement one I got from Ebay worked great at first then was not starting the bike, back fires etc. Occasionally it did start the bike. The seller sent me another, same thing so I bought a low mileage secondhand one, original Honda. It fired up great and runs great. Bought another genuine Honda one second hand and it works great.

Looking at the spark between the two different CDI units, original and ebay version I can see there is a difference in the spark.

I obviously cant guarantee its going to be the CDI but it really does sound like it to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Interesting Jamie, which ebay one did you have ?

I managed find my original CDi yesterday and tried it, no different, in fact I prefer my Ebay CDi atm, its more responsive

Anyway, I have done a fair few jobs over the last couple of days including

Taking carb off, checked and cleaned

Inspected several electrical items and connection and found the ignition switch connector had been bodged, so had to make good

Anyway, my bike now starts a lot easier and quicker, throttle snappier etc, but, still has a erratic tickover that wants to stall

So, after further reading, I suspect the air cut off valve thing

Anyone know where to get one ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I tried my original CDi yesterday, runs but, a bit rougher
If I shake it, I can hear something loose inside
Surprised it works at all
Luckily my newer one seems ok atm, certainly better
 
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