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I can ride all day.
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok fitted new facet pump to replace the old facet, which I thought had stopped working, but the problem is, when I wire it to the loom the same way the old pump was it dosnt work? Tested the voltage and I've got around 6v coming down with the engine running, which is not enough for the pump to work?
So I've wired it into a postive that comes on with the key, and the bikes runs fine, better than before, but just had a thought, if I switch the bike on without the engine the pump will still be going?? Any ideas?
 

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If you're using the standard wiring to the pump, there isn't a permanent 12v feed to the pump (atleast on an RD03 and RD04 there isn't)

I haven't got anything to refer to here, so can't tell you exactly, but the 12v supply to the pump is fed from the CDI, so the engine has to be running for the (pulsed) 12v to reach the fuel pump. (the pulse of 12v operates contact breakers in the OE pump)

I think I'm right, but can't check.

I don't know how the Facet works, but having it permanently running is probably not a good idea. Wouldn't it either flood the carbs, or knacker itself if it's trying to push fuel into a carb with a shut float valve?

I'm wondering if you're using a digital multimeter to measure the voltage? because it may be that the 12v pulse going to the pump happens faster than the multimeter can register.



Bob :thumbup:
 

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I can ride all day.
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I am using a digital meter, the bike runs really well, with current set up, no flooding and much smoother than before. Bit lost on this one may test the standard loom again, and see what's there.
 

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bigtrailie admin
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Won't the pressure switch within the pump stop it pumping once its triggered?:confused:
My understanding was that with a switched 12v feed you be perfectly :thumbup:
 

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You need to do some voltage/continuity checks seeing that you have a multimeter handy. The problem may lie in the 'fuel cutoff relay'.
What model is your AT? For a 'P' onwards the cutoff relay is behind the left sidecover. Other models it's behind the instrument cluster. Do you have a wiring diagram?

Do the following...

At the loom side of the connector for this relay check for voltage to the black/red wire with the ignition on? Continuity between the relay connector (Blue/black wire) and the pump...and between the green wire and ground? Further continuity checks between the relay and the ICU?

If good...jumper (short) the black/red and blue/black at relay wiring connector (you have now bypassed the relay)...if you now have voltage at the blue/black at the pump with the ignition on then your relay WAS faulty.

For obvious safety reasons you want the fuel cutoff relay to be working in this circuit.
 

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I can ride all day.
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362 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info GPSD, but that all sounds above my basic skills, I've tested the bike by leaving the pump running with the engine off, and there's no flooding, and the bike starts as normal. Bike idles fine for ages.
So bike runs well? No flooding? Starts well? Shall I just leave it? Seems the smart option.
 

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Thanks for the info GPSD, but that all sounds above my basic skills, I've tested the bike by leaving the pump running with the engine off, and there's no flooding, and the bike starts as normal. Bike idles fine for ages.
So bike runs well? No flooding? Starts well? Shall I just leave it? Seems the smart option.
Awww...c'mon...you can do it providing your not colour blind. :p I'm betting it's the fuel cut-off relay. I asked you earlier what model is your AT?

Then lets cut to the chase. Depending on what location your cut-off relay is get yourself an old wire about 4" long and strip back at either end to bare wire.

Remove the connector from the fuel cut-off relay. Their are 3 wires going to this connector plug. Wires are blue/black - blue/red - and yellow/blue. Ignore the yellow/blue.

Insert one end of the jumper wire to the red/black (the plug connector) and the other to the blue/black of this plug. As mentioned earlier you have now by-passed the relay.

With ignition on you should see 12 volts DC now and not the 6 volts you previously got at the blue/black wire which goes to and powers the facet.

If you see 12 volts now it was your relay that was faulty and you need to get a new one from honda.

Hot wiring and bypassing this relay should only be done for troubleshooting. Wiring your pump hot is not wise and the risk of fire is now increased if something should go wrong such as a crash.
Safety is the issue. :blah5:
 

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I can ride all day.
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Discussion Starter #10
Ok boss! I'll have a look and a play tomorrow, with that detailed information I think I should be ok.
Oh and it's 2000 rd07 model. Not sure of the exact model.
 

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Ok boss! I'll have a look and a play tomorrow, with that detailed information I think I should be ok.
Oh and it's 2000 rd07 model. Not sure of the exact model.
Excellent. :thumbright: The fuel cutoff relay is behind the left side cover between the Regulator/Rectifier and ICU and is attached to the sub-frame. Follow the colour coded wires and you can't go wrong.
 

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I can ride all day.
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Discussion Starter #12
Ok a big thanks to everyone, right found the relay, and blue/black wire was split, so I repaired it, and getting beteew 3 and 9volts depending on engine revs, which is running the fuel pump ok for now, If I trip the relay I get 12/14 volts. So going to order new relay. Thanks again to a amazing forum.
 

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I can ride all day.
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Discussion Starter #13
Question again? The relay is £70! Not that I mind paying that but, do I really need it? Can I jusT bypass it what's it do?
 

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Premium Member
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You need a relay, but you don't need a £70 relay!!

The relay is just like a big switch, and uses a small current to switch contacts that control a circuit drawing a much higher current.

Have you looked on eBay, there were a few on there a while back?

Well done finding it, and brilliant info provided by GSPD to point you in the right direction.


NO MANUALS WITH ME WHERE I AM. Is it this one HERE???



:thumbup:
 
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