Honda XRV Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone!

I have a question regarding the RR and lipo batteries:
On my RD03 there is a Landport ML LFP9 battery, which is way smaller than standard battery (3Ah vs 14Ah). The original RR is still on (more than 150'000 km) and I have the following issues since many kilometers:
With engine on and lights off, the voltage of the system goes up to 20 Vdc, with light on, it perfectly stays under the 14.5 Vdc.

Not a big issue so far (I've been doing 50+ kkm like this), the battery had some fun a couple of times but it's still working.
Now that I have some more expensive stuff on the bike (ico&roadbook), I would like to solve this issue.
Any idea if it's a matter of incompatibility or the RR is just broken?

Cheers,

Norman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
I would think its your rectifier if you are getting 20v and I would be worried in case it causes more damage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Replace R/R with a Mosfet type R/R (FH020A) before you cook battery and electronics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'll check with a spare RR if the problem i ssolved, iif that's the case I'll replace the current one with the mosfet version.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,822 Posts
I'll check with a spare RR if the problem i ssolved, iif that's the case I'll replace the current one with the mosfet version.
As Wicky has mentioned already you risk cooking your battery including lamps and the even more expensive (ICU) Ignition control Unit when a
over voltage situation occurs. Don't run the engine. Here's an old post of mine of the Mosfet installation but for a RDO7A with some links.

Original Regulator Rectifier RD07 ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Don't trust the old R/R. Trust Wicky. My old R/R cooked in the inaugural trip through Europe to bring the bike from Italy to UK. Battery binned. All bulbs binned. Tacho broken. Bike left stranded in a Switzerland village unattended for 1 month, before I was able to organise a collection. A money disaster, but fortunately (praise to the honest Swiss people) I recovered the bike.
Installed a MOSFET as for the RD07 and I forgot the issue.
You might find difficult to find MOSFET type R/R because I think (FH012A) that is needed is long discontinued. Probably you might adapt a FH020A but there is difference in mounting bolts.
Lastly, if you have problems with Tacho/Speedo do not look for spare. That old analog stuff can be repaired. I know a German chap that does that for honest prices.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Cheers to everyone!

I've switched to the spare R/R and the issue is gone.

I'll make the upgrade to a FH020A.

Thank you everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Excellent bit of reading about Lithium's...Saved to my Documents too..Don't think i will ever, ever buy one of these now..for anything, ever...thank you Fred..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Excellent bit of reading about Lithium's...Saved to my Documents too..Don't think i will ever, ever buy one of these now..for anything, ever...thank you Fred..
I'm of the same frame of mind as you Andy, but i fear everything will be fitted with them in the future. Wouldn't be without them on my power tools though :)
My biggest issue with them was highlighted last weekend on the CRF1000/1100 Facebook group. A guy pulled up to a red light and his bike cut out no dash lights nothing everything dead. He got the bike recovered put the battery on charge and everything came back to life the battery had shut off due to low voltage and left him stranded, not what you want on an adventure bike in my opinion. Then he goes on to say the battery went flat due to the reg/rec not working, now after what I've read i cant help to think its the other way around the reg/rec is not working anymore because the battery shut off.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top