I'm surprised to see a regular power diode just shoved into the fuse holder like that. I would have expected something that resembled a fuse - plastic casing and all. Considering that the blade fuses have "blade" type connections rather than the heavy gauge round wire that the power diode comes with.
Is this standard or has someone found suitably rated diode and shoved it in?
Edit: By the way, that RM4 diode has a 3 Amp rating.
Other than a cursory glance whilst cleaning out the crud (I've only had the @ for a couple of months and it's not, um, roadworthy yet - front rim and monoshock to sort first), I must say I haven't otherwise checked the fusebox again until tonight, Lutin.
Pic is from the Honda workshop manual, I'd thought that as it's the only specified diode it would sort of look diode-y rather than fuse-y? Not sure though, as you mentioned, if it's OEM or an historic 'get-you-home'...
To be honest mate, I'm not even sure that the 10A and 20A fuses are in their correct slots but, the bike starts and runs sweetly at the mo, so fuse tetris is a fine-tuning job for another day
To quote the workshop manual:
"Inspection. Note - The test results shown are for a positive ground ohmmeter and the opposite results will be obtained when a negative ground ohmmeter is used...
...Clutch switch diode -
Disconnect 6-P Black connector in the connector bracket.
Check for continuity with an ohmmeter.
Connect the positive probe to the Green/Red terminal and the negative probe to the Light Green /Red terminal in the connector.
There should be continuity, then with the probes reversed, there should be no continuity."
Thanks BTW for the Amp rating, I couldn't seem to find that in either Haynes or the workshop manual!
I know that I've probably posted some extraneous electrical info in this thread, but the @'s new and still a bit alien to me, and hopefully foz'll be able to sift out sommat useful from it
