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Discussion Starter · #21 ·

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Sorry, cant see your original problem as posted, am not using Tapatalk.

This one, thanks

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Hmm, it does sound like a sparks issue rather than a carb problem. Having said that, i would replace the float needle valves and check the float height if you haven't already done it. Are the plugs still showing rich (after a reasonable run, not just idling)?
I have read somewhere that the pulse generators can play up, even though they seem to check out resistance wise. Yours you say are earthing so i would definitely fit a new pair, just to eliminate that avenue.
If that does not fix the problem then my next option would be to beg steal or borrow another ignition module as there is no practical way to test them. I would strongly recommend you change it anyway for an uprated ignition map module from
Double digital, check out at :
Digital Double-CDI for Honda XRV750 Africa Twin (RD04/RD07)

This alters the ignition map for the decent fuel we have in Europe rather than some of the rats pee found in Africa etc!
It will make your engine pull much stronger from lower down. I used this map but could not use their unit as i have an RD07A which only has a single pulse generator, but it is the best mod i have done to my bike, ( my post on Improved ignition map).
Moving on to your rectifier, i know you have replaced it, but most problems are with the 3 pin connector not connecting properly, corrosion etc. This can cause arcing or overheating in the connections, which can ultimately lead to the rectifier overcharging the battery and failure. Mine did not appear to have problems, but the connector had been quietly cooking and melting. The best option is to fit a Mosfet regulator (Google it) which is far more efficient and do away with the poor Honda connector. You can get Mosfet regulators from various companies, but I used a second hand one from a Yamaha bike breaker as Yamaha have been using them for years.
Example from Ebay : Voltage Regulator Fit for YAMAHA YZF R1 2002-2014 FZ1000 2006-2014 Rectifier UK | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hmm, it does sound like a sparks issue rather than a carb problem. Having said that, i would replace the float needle valves and check the float height if you haven't already done it. Are the plugs still showing rich (after a reasonable run, not just idling)?
I have read somewhere that the pulse generators can play up, even though they seem to check out resistance wise. Yours you say are earthing so i would definitely fit a new pair, just to eliminate that avenue.
If that does not fix the problem then my next option would be to beg steal or borrow another ignition module as there is no practical way to test them. I would strongly recommend you change it anyway for an uprated ignition map module from
Double digital, check out at :
Digital Double-CDI for Honda XRV750 Africa Twin (RD04/RD07)

This alters the ignition map for the decent fuel we have in Europe rather than some of the rats pee found in Africa etc!
It will make your engine pull much stronger from lower down. I used this map but could not use their unit as i have an RD07A which only has a single pulse generator, but it is the best mod i have done to my bike, ( my post on Improved ignition map).
Moving on to your rectifier, i know you have replaced it, but most problems are with the 3 pin connector not connecting properly, corrosion etc. This can cause arcing or overheating in the connections, which can ultimately lead to the rectifier overcharging the battery and failure. Mine did not appear to have problems, but the connector had been quietly cooking and melting. The best option is to fit a Mosfet regulator (Google it) which is far more efficient and do away with the poor Honda connector. You can get Mosfet regulators from various companies, but I used a second hand one from a Yamaha bike breaker as Yamaha have been using them for years.
Example from Ebay : Voltage Regulator Fit for YAMAHA YZF R1 2002-2014 FZ1000 2006-2014 Rectifier UK | eBay
I have been thinking along the same lines of it being an ignition issue. Float needle valves replaced and float height was correct. I'll have to get it out for a run again to check the plugs. I think though that I will have to run through each electric connection on the bike and check them all. I haven't seen anytime yet in the connectors that would suggest corrosion or bad contact. Few things to ponder there, but glad that I'm not going mad and you're thinking along similar lines to me

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Well you seem to be taking a good methodical system of elimination, so keep at it!
One other electrical glitch that caused me problems was the engine going down on 1 cylinder, so bike was still going but would not pull or rev. sometimes clearing, or then cutting out completely. This turned out to be a playful intermittent fuel pump relay. You can bypass the relay by just hot wiring to a live feed to the pump or just connecting the pump power wires at the relay. This proved the problem for me so it may be worth doing, just to tick that one off. The relay is not really necessary and can be done away with and just connected to a fused ignition supply, which if mine ever plays up again i will do. The relay from memory was about £40, so a bit of a waste of money, knowing what i know now. It is there to cut the fuel pump if you drop the bike and the engine stops. But having done just that, you find fuel just pisses out the carbs anyway all over the road even after you turn the ignition off !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well you seem to be taking a good methodical system of elimination, so keep at it!
One other electrical glitch that caused me problems was the engine going down on 1 cylinder, so bike was still going but would not pull or rev. sometimes clearing, or then cutting out completely. This turned out to be a playful intermittent fuel pump relay. You can bypass the relay by just hot wiring to a live feed to the pump or just connecting the pump power wires at the relay. This proved the problem for me so it may be worth doing, just to tick that one off. The relay is not really necessary and can be done away with and just connected to a fused ignition supply, which if mine ever plays up again i will do. The relay from memory was about £40, so a bit of a waste of money, knowing what i know now. It is there to cut the fuel pump if you drop the bike and the engine stops. But having done just that, you find fuel just pisses out the carbs anyway all over the road even after you turn the ignition off !!
Interesting as that's the one thing I forgot to wrote that I had changed as well. Did exactly what you said by jumping the feeds but same result, but I did replace it

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The idle screw does look like it will fit ok. The emulsion tube hole spacing on the new one does look to be different to your original one though ( unless the views in the photos are different). This is important as the hole size and position affects how much air is being introduced into the fuel, so hence the fuel emulsion mixture at a particular air flow. If they are different spacing ( or hole size ) then i would advise you to use the original after a good clean as it seems one of the holes (or more) is blocked in the photo!
I am not sure what part you are referring to that "if you broke it you would have to bin the bike" ??
Many of the carb parts (needles, jets, emulsion tubes, idle screws and float needle) are all still available if not from Honda, then from the likes of Wemoto, CMS etc, so i think binning the bike for the lack of a carb spare part is a bit unfounded!
Hi!
Thanks for the reply.
A bit of clarification for other readers who may be caught in the same problems:
1) idle screw (or throttle screw or pilot screw): they were exactly the same, despite the new one in the picture is still in package and unclear. So, watch out! I think Keyster made 4 kits for xrvs (for xrv650, for xrv750 Rd04, for RD07 and for RD07A); there is some difference for the last 3 (that for example Haynes manual does not report).
2) emulsion tube (I would call it needle jet). Be careful! They are NOT in any carb kit!!! And they are pretty much very difficult to find, but from broken bikes. That is why I said you break one of them and you risk to bin the bike.

In the pictures the first one is for RD07A and the second is for RD03. That is why holes are different.
Please note the ones for RD04 are different too (they are different for front and rear cylinder too).

I hope that helps.
 

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I have no idea, but if you look up the pulse generators on a dealers website for the model years, it will show the part #'s and give you your answer. If you are thinking of trying your RD04's ones in the rd07, remember that the gap spacing to the rotor is critical (on both models) so is it really worth the faff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I have no idea, but if you look up the pulse generators on a dealers website for the model years, it will show the part #'s and give you your answer. If you are thinking of trying your RD04's ones in the rd07, remember that the gap spacing to the rotor is critical (on both models) so is it really worth the faff?
30300MY1004 is the number from Fowler's website for rd07

30300MV1004 is for the rd04.

Dangerously close.

As the CDI is the same for both rd04 and rd07 it is possible they could be the same.

According to CMSNL the rd07 part number also fits the rd07a.. just to add confusion

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I just looked up the part on Fowlers website. Ouch! what a price and not available either. Perhaps it is worth trying your RD04 pick ups! I will troll through my saved websites to see if i can find a second hand one. There are some showing on Ebay, but from America. Pricey with postage, but not as bad as Fowlers!
 

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Just a thought before you disturb your RD04 pickups, check to see if you get the same test readings as you did with the RD07. Also check the gap between pickups and rotor so you can re-install it as it was.
 

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Have found these:

 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Have found these:

Thanks! I'm still uncertain whether they will do the job, can't find a definite answer anywhere. Other than buying them and finding out the hard way! Have found a place in Sweden selling rd07 ones but they aren't answering emails unfortunately.

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If the connector plug is the same, i would be tempted to try your RD04 ones as finding a replacement for either model seems difficult. I would also as a guess say that if you could find a sensor from a different model honda that would fit, it should work as i think they are all just Hall sensors, but that would be a last resort. Reading the Haynes manual it would appear your RD07 ones are duff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I haven't got a rd04 pickup laying around, just found a few on German eBay, but trying figure out if they will fit before pulling the trigger. Spoke to Honda, who say if the part number is different then it's different, but can't tell me how. Could be length of cable for example. German eBay bloke reckons they will work, but I don't know what's basing that off, other than he says he searched the web. Waiting now on a call back from a guy who possibly might just know the answer. We shall see

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Ah so sorry, i have confused your post with another where he had rough running on an RD07 but also had an RD04 which he was comparing it to. Dohhhh!
 
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