Honda XRV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, after about 2 hours in the garage fighting with it I still cant get the engine out of the frame. Has anyone got any tips/ photos or video of engine removal,surly it can't be so hard? And if i'm having this much trouble getting it out how do I get it back in?????

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
I've done it a few times. But I've not even bothered trying with the cam covers on.

If you think it's hard getting it out, just wait until you try to get it back in. It's easily a two man job. Using a scissors lift ramp or jack under it.

I don't replace the heads until it's back in the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,985 Posts
Hi all, after about 2 hours in the garage fighting with it I still cant get the engine out of the frame. Has anyone got any tips/ photos or video of engine removal,surly it can't be so hard? And if i'm having this much trouble getting it out how do I get it back in?????

thanks
Hello mate,I have in my possession the holy grail of how to fully strip an AT including engine removal. It's a full step by step photo walk through and you can't go wrong (there's no need to remove parts of the motor either)
PM me an email address and I'll send it to you (170meg download almost 500 photo's !)

(another option) Which isn't in the Holy Grail file is....If your down to just the frame and engine ? you can lay it on it's side, and just hoist it out (I've seen the method but I haven't personally tried it) :)
Nick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Tape the frame unless you plan to paint it. ;) Trolly jack is mandatory if your by yourself.

85475556-M.jpg

Carriage bolts thru the engine mount bores make great handles. No need to
remove heads or valve covers.

85475550-M.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,985 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Rd04 is harder as the lower frame section is not removable.... a tip, wrap some old bicycle inner tube around the frame to prevent paint damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I think all I removed werethe carbs and oil filter for removal.
I had a bare frame when rebuilding so lifted the frame over the motor, it was fairly easy

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the replies i'm going to give it another bash in the morning I didn't remove the carbs maybe that where I am going wrong.
Have any of you painted the engine? I was going to send the casings and rocker covers off for a powder coat and just touch the rest up myself as it's not to bad but now i'm thinking while its out I might get it all done properly but how does this work do you sen the whole engine off or do you have to totally strip it?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
I've done quite a lot of engines in VHT. It's not tough at all unless you laquer and bake it on. Unless you bake your entire Engine your paint will very easily chip and scratch.

I've also noticed the paint will lift at gasket edges.

Don't get me long. It looks great and will last as long as youre very careful with it.

But it's less than half as good as a 2pac or powder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I masked up my engine then soda blasted it, I used Hycote engine enamel to paint it. Didn’t take any covers off..Then left if\t a few days and masked it up again to re install. Mask up your frame also when you go to fit the engine to get double protection for scratches
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
If you haven't laquered and baked your VHT, prepare for it to chip and scratch very easily.

I've done about 10 motors in VHT and they were all shotblasted first so had excellent adhesion.

I didn't bake the first couple I did and the paint started to fail after a few months.

It's especially prone around gasket surfaces. Cam covers, engine cases etc.

It lasts well on large flat areas but on head fins or edges it's really quite crap.

I've actually had better results with a can of hammerite.

Even after you do bake it, it's still very much a DIY effort.

Nothing out of a can comes close to 2pac or powder coating for durability.

You need to treat it with kid gloves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
If you didn't even laquer it then petrol, oil, solvents etc will all attack it easily.

It also needs baking to make it more chip resistant. 180c if I remember correctly. It tells you this on the cans.

You're going to have to be very careful whenever you clean it or or work on it.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

If you're not going to follow the directions and process that they say you have to then you were probably better off using hammerite areosols. They last better if used just as a single product without curing.

If your motor is still out of the frame then I really recommend that you laquer it at least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,985 Posts
I think it's time for PHOTO'S :thumbright:. Let's see the fine and shite stuff so we can mock and applaud in equal measures.:D (I haven't done an engine, but I have seriously f****d up plenty of other stuff. One of my best "messes" was pannier frames ! ) :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
I used this stuff after being recommended on this forum. No primer required but engine needs to be spotless.
Happy with finish and covered well.

Simoniz High Temperature Aluminium Engine Enamel 500ml Up To 150 Degrees

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Simoniz-High-Temperature-Aluminium-Engine-Enamel-500ml-Up-To-150-Degrees/332444388332?epid=1223862968&hash=item4d673acbec:g:GXAAAOSwvfZaBV~w

Img_1654.jpg Img_3553.jpg Img_3782.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Just a question why do you need high temperature paint? I have rattle canned a couple of engines with halfords basic paint, never lacquered them either, lasted for ages, there’s not that much heat on the engine, high temperature paint is ok on exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
It's out thanks for the help. Think it was the carbs in the way should have taken them off to start.
20180305_185413 small.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top