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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys,

I have a small problem with my AT. On decell or on idle there are some small popping happens. I searched the forum about this and I was pretty sure the choke is acting up, after deleting it still the same happening. Came to this conclusion after close both pilot screw fully and the bike was still running and almost no popping. Carb sync checked with a Boehm set. The difference is somewhere around .02-.03 bar. Funny thing the vacuum is changing when the bike on the side stands or when its on the lift. On side stand almost the same readings, when it on the stand there is the mentioned difference. Now everything is on the stock setting pilot screw is at 2 3/8. wit the choke deleted still popping. on the spark plugs no fouling visible or anything, seems alright. One more thing, on my exhaust there is a small hole is that normal? I will attach a pic about it, also a video about the popping and the sync readings. I want to do the sync next, but I'm not sure if I need the special screwdriver with the angled end to that... Any idea?

Popping:
Sync:


165319
 

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Is there an airleak at the manifold header or link pipe/header connection - or on the carb manifold ? Hold a gloved hand over the exhaust outlet to muffle it and listen for any unusual gas pulses exiting where they shouldn't.

The small hole in the exhaust can is a water drainhole.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there an airleak at the manifold header or link pipe/header connection - or on the carb manifold ? Hold a gloved hand over the exhaust outlet to muffle it and listen for any unusual gas pulses exiting where they shouldn't.

The small hole in the exhaust can is a water drainhole.
The only gas pulses coming from the drainhole, no other leaks found.
 

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In the meantime, I changed the spark plugs. Plugs where little darker, but I think it's because the many "testing" cold starts, also the gap was not really in range(under .8). NGK DPR7EA-9 was used what is for the cold climate I think, so anyway it's changed to DENSO X24EPR-U9 what is the standard plugs for this engine. Sparkplug change maybe helped a bit, but the is still popping. I attach a vid with the pilot screw totally in for the rear and half turn out for the front cylinder. So maybe Carb cleaning will be the next step here? If I start to it is ultrasonic cleaning is a must? Any advice?


165320

165321
 

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Sounds okay to my ear - best ride it around and make adjustments one at a time or you'll chase your tail with bulk changes. If it's been stored up for a while without the carbs first getting drained then a good clean won't do any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds okay to my ear - best ride it around and make adjustments one at a time or you'll chase your tail with bulk changes. If it's been stored up for a while without the carbs first getting drained then a good clean won't do any harm.
What do you think about the fully closed pilot screw? Can cause any harm to the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Put it to spec.

Thank you, Wicky for the pic and for the help. I think I will put back to spec and use it like this for some weeks and I will source a sonic cleaner and check everything in the carb. I have a feeling I have a rejetted carb and that's why I can't set the screw correctly. I will update the thread or start a new one about my bike as I can see people like to read about bike stories ;)
 

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Yes getting it back to stock as a starting point and serviced - check for things like aftermarket airlfilter i.e reason why it would be changed - as the exhaust looks stock - And as mentioned condition of carb manifold and if its seated properly.

Carb and choke parts are available from rugged roads

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes getting it back to stock as a starting point and serviced - check for things like aftermarket airlfilter i.e reason why it would be changed - as the exhaust looks stock - And as mentioned condition of carb manifold and if its seated properly.

Carb and choke parts are available from rugged roads

The air filter is a hiflo one. The only modification on the bike is the tubes between the airbox and the carb changed to rd07 ones(what missing the vacuum resonators tubes outlet), as the old ones got too hard to fit properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, great news! Cleaned the carbs with success I think. No more popping(maybe 1% left). Jets were not really clogged, but there was some gel gunk, probably some fuel residue. Also tested the air cut-off valve as that also can cause an issue like this, works great, but the tubes almost fully cracked on it. I will change it to silicone ones, but for now, I just applied some silicone grease for proper sealing for that time when I will have the right tube for it. Probably still need a sonic bath. Here are some pics and clips about the process and the end result.

Also, I saw somebody here searching for the carb dimensions(complete unit): 22*17*12cm

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