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Hi folks, I'm new to the forum but have read a bit over the past 1+ yr (& 30 odd thousand kms), as I've been riding across europe, balkans, turkey etc. Now in Morocco and heading south (with the exception of Mali!)

Anyway, I have an XL600 (99 yr). I knacked the regulator and battery while roll starting the bike (for a few of months from turkey to spain)... (I can just imagine peoples heads shaking!)

So in Spain i HAD to replace the battery (couldnt even roll start) and look for new regulator. Road bike for a little bit keeping eye on battery & water levels til i got a new regulator (2nd hand). Replaced it and checked voltage which was running at 14 something. 2 days later on arrival to morocco bike wouldnt tick over. Mechanic checked voltage, it was running at 17-18, replaced regulator with another 2nd hand reg, checked voltage which was again 14 something. 2 weeks later i'm in the same situation....bike wont start etc etc

Checked with professional mechanic here (working more with high end/new race bikes and some trail)...they said my battery was shot, that it was poor quality which was probably already damaged before changing the regulator. I am concerned that it is a problem further up the line....alternator,starter? but they said they checked it (not sure how?) and it is ok. They have put in a Yuasa sealed battery 12V 10Ah (YT 12B-BS). We check voltage, again running at 17-18 with high revs (which concerns me!). But the regulator is not running hot (warm but not burning after a ride). Even with the high voltage they think the regulator could be ok, and that i just need to ride for a few hundred km's and see how it goes... which I'll do today. But I'm concerned that
1) even if the reg is broken we're probably not going to detect a problem with starting in the next day or 2.
2) that the problem will probably make its self known again when i'm in the middle of nowhere in the sahara (and without a hill to roll down!)
3) that if i don't fix the problem now it just costs more in the long run... money, hassel and who knows what!?!

Although 2nd hand, both regulators have been honda orignal (as i understand) and working at the time of purchase... (and 2nd hand because the budget has only been allowing for petrol bread & water!)

Does anyone have suggestions, advice or experiences to share?

I have no idea and am not sure what to do....
 

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From my past experiences...running bike with faulty regulator knackers out the battery, running bike with faulty battery knackers out the regulator...and battery seems to be the one to go first.

At the very first sign that batt. is not keeping charge as usual, better to play safe and replace batt. IMO worst thing to do to a batt. is to let it discharge completely.

Also I stick to originals and non-second hand when replacing electrical parts.

Regulated voltage output for XL600V must be between 13.5V to 15.5V @ 5000rpm...trouble seems to be at regulator/rectifier in your case. This summer a friend of mine with a bike exactly like yours had to replace regulator in Austria. Bought it new for around 300 euro...i know you could buy a lot of bread with that:(
 

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Stop putting in 2nd hand R/R's that are obviously shot due to the overvoltage readings your getting or you will
continue to boil and kill your batteries. The multimeter is not lying here...you need another NEW R/R and possibly a battery
if you want to continue your journey. You explained it well...and it looks cut and dried to me.
cheers.
 

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Furthermore on the proper R/R you require. The OEM R/R is made by Shindengen
in Japan in which you should see stamped in white SH538D-13 on one of the heat sink fins.

Please note that the Africa Twin (RDO7A) uses the same R/R with the same letter/numbers stamped
on the side of the R/R however the Africa Twin has a round connector for the 2/red and 2/green wires
where as the TA has a square plug. An Africa Twin R/R will work....you just have to splice
in the square connector. Hope that was some help.
 

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As above, but also make sure all wiring and connectors between engine, R/R and battery are in good nick. These are the root cause of a lot of R/R problems IMHO. If you haven't already done so, have a look at Eastern Beaver's site Main He produces R/R wiring kits and sells lots of good quality connectors and various bike wiring products. Highly infrormative site, with the added bonus that he rides an AT and so understands our bikes. Good luck.
 
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As above, but also make sure all wiring and connectors between engine, R/R and battery are in good nick. These are the root cause of a lot of R/R problems IMHO. If you haven't already done so, have a look at Eastern Beaver's site Main He produces R/R wiring kits and sells lots of good quality connectors and various bike wiring products. Highly infrormative site, with the added bonus that he rides an AT and so understands our bikes. Good luck.
I have zero evidence to back this up But I'm utterly convinced most charging system probs originate from poor/corroded connectors.


Be sure check the one with 3yellow wires from generator to the loom - if in any doubt about the connector, chop it out & solder/heatshrink the wires.

Phil

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Wenzu, GSPD750, destert storm & Phil

All good helpful advice - will heed.

So, took out regulator to check, clean connections. AND have discovered that the part number is a few digits out! (GSPD, not the SH538D-13!)
Yep the part that the moroc mechanics put in was NOT the original as promised. At the time they showed me the transalp it came from and with a quick look at the reg and cables (which had already been fitted) and a check of the voltage (14.5)... i thought ok. I should have been more thorough. It sounds pretty foolish now but at that moment i didn't know the exact part number (didnt see it on old reg), the new reg had already been fitted (and appeared to be working) and no language wasn't helping either. hmmm they won that day! on the up side having the wrong regulator does make part of the solution clearer!

So now checking all connections and waiting for new regulator.

Thks again guys - yr advice is of great help



simon
 

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Simon
Hope you are moving again now! I lived in E Africa for a few years, so some semi-local advice: When you get down south past Sahara, you'll gradually get into v hot and humid climate. Batteries usually hate it. If you can get a load of vaseline or similar greasy stuff and smear it over battery contact points you can reduce corrosion. Even so, if you lose electric your first job is always to strip off the contacts, file/sandpaper them clean, reconnect and cross your fingers. 3/4 times this worked for me.
And you can probably give up on ever finding a genuine new Honda part again even if you are prepared to pay for it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cheers Hamish...definitely taking that on board!
yep back on the road...with a good, correct regulator...what a difference it can make eh
thanks for the advice mate
best, simon
 

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reg/rec/battery/ just a thought.... 3 yellow wires coming from the engine leading to the regulator, there shoulb be a connector block maybe 20cm from the regulator, just check its not burned/fused/corroded. Common cause of reg/battery failure. If knackered, cut back all 3 wires, use new connector block. doesn't matter which wire goes to which.
 

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Just happened on this thread as owner of a 600 Alp. One thing I have done is to fit a small LED to the output from the ignition switch. This changes colour depending on voltage and typically shows green if the voltage is in the normal range--it will flash orange etc if the system overvolts so is a good first sign of things going south--it occasionally flashes but running with lights seems to pull it down to and acceptable range(even low current LED DTRLs). We had a problem with a Suzuki GSXR--and the connector from the alternator (3 yellows) was so corroded that it overheated the plastic and nearly caused a fire(not our bike)--just reinforces the point about clean connectors.
 
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