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Discussion Starter #1
When stripping out the underseat tray I separated the square(ish) connector on the regulator and found the connections to be burnt looking!




Should I be worried about this? Should I replace the connectors and if so where from? Help anyone?


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When stripping out the underseat tray I separated the square(ish) connector on the regulator and found the connections to be burnt looking!

Should I be worried about this? Should I replace the connectors and if so where from? Help anyone?


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YES! You SHOULD be worried about this!

Do not put off this matter! Attend to it immediately.

This connector brings the three yellow wires carrying A/C current from the bike's stator (left side of engine) and delivers them to the regulator / rectifier. A charred / burnt connector is a common issue on many AT's (and other models and makes) and is the direct result of loose connections within the connector.

You could replace this connector but unless the connector itself is a top-quality one, and the technician doing this is a man with attention to detail, there is no guarantee that the connector will not have loose connections inside, leading (again!) to a charred connector. The charring / burning means that there is considerable heat building up there, and may cause an electrical fire, in which case you could have major repair or even possibly a write-off of the bike. At the very least such loose connections cause electrical resistance, leading to your R/Rectifier heating up way beyond the safe limit, leading to a failure of your R/R.

What I have done on my bike, and many others, is to simply dispense with the connector, and directly solder / weld the connections. Use a 60 watt soldering bouth, good quality soldering lead and flux, and individually encase each yellow wire with the soldered connection in heat-shrink tube. and cable-tie the lot snugly but not too tightly, and you will have an excellent supply of A/C to you R/R without overheating / charring / burning issues of any kind. Further, your batter will last a lot longer, since it is being properly charged due to the R/R finding it easier to do it's job with a good steady supply of A/C.


Good luck and safe riding!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Works for me... thanks guys for the tips. I will at some point replace the regulator anyway, but one job at a time!

:):):)
 

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Best replace R/R and give your charging system a through going over as the burning on the R/R output could well indicative that the R/R is well & truly knackered. Lucky it hasn't taken out your battery, console, CDIs etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there a way to check the regulator?
 

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I buy Mosfet's from Ebay after long searches for 'used' from obscure listings by sellers who don't know what they have & therefore sell them for around £10 - £30.

FH009, 010, 012, or 020 all work ok on my bikes.
Double plugs are the clue if details are not listed properly ( which helps get a bargain ) FH012.jpg j

If I can't find the Furukawa connectors in a 'used' loom to go with it, which sometimes I am lucky enough to do, I use this chap for the connectors & ready made 'tails'. He is as sound as a pound.
R/R Connectors

Loads of bikes had / have FH Mosfets, but as I say, the best bargains are amongst those not listing them for Triumphs, R1's, BMW's & Ducatis & putting Buy Now's on.

I have yet to find an FH one which did't work 'used'.
 
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The problem with that connector is that it's just a bit rubbish. Spade connectors rely on good spring contact and they lose that when they get warm as the connector expands. Being brass they corrode and at some point the connector gets a higher resistance which makes it hotter until the point where the plastic melts and you notice the problem.

Really a weather proof connector is the best option, super seal or some such.

Large Superseal Weatherproof Connectors

You will only see about 30A peak through that connector.

Testing a RR is best done with a meter measuring battery voltage.
Note the battery voltage, start the engine, and at idle up to about 5k revs the voltage shouldn't go much past 14.5v without lights on. From about 1500 revs the voltage should be higher than 13v.

Non MOSFET regs have been around a while and do fail, due to heat mostly so when you decide to replace it, MOSFET is a better option.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi All,

Thanks for all the info. I'll check the voltage later & see what's needed.
 
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