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Discussion Starter #1
Planning to take my @ to hotter climes (Oz) and been thinking about better regulator cooling. Increased airflow seems the obvious solution, and I've seen a few comments on fans being fitted: presumably computer cooling types. Any advice on suitable units?

Had a thought about relocating the regulator to the steering head area, so that it is in the flow of air into the airbox. Anybody tried this yet, or am I barking up the wrong tree? Or just barking.

Tim.
 

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Hi, not sure about fans etc, too complicated for me!! I saw on this forum a picture of an @ that had a hole made in the side panel with some mesh glued over to stop stones. It directed air over the fins of the regulator. This seems like a good idea so will be doing it on mine soon.
J.
 

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Hill Rider
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Big J said:
It directed air over the fins of the regulator. This seems like a good idea so will be doing it on mine soon.
J.
Regulator cooling in Inversnekky!!!!

You expecting a heat wave sometime soon (not including today, which is quite tropical in Moray :D)??

The computer cooling fan thingy was done by one of our far east correrspondents, and a very professional job it was as well. The power, I think, came from the rear light. Longer bolts for the reg/recr also got the fan mounted directly onto the heat sink fins of the reg/rec.

There are several Oz users on this forum - try asking them direct how they keep there bits cool :rolleyes:

Steve T

:cool:
 
L

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Another more expensive way is to buy a peltier plate and then bolt it under the reg/rec..This when powered up will draw heat from the unit and disperse it onto the frame...

As far as PC fans just remember that they're more suited to a totally dry enviroment where the worse contaminent is dust...
 

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I have had a PC fan on the RR on my VFR for the last couple of years.Time will tell how long it will last,but it cost me nowt so I can't complain when it packs up.
 

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Put an ign controlled PC fan on the RR on my @ a good while ago - still going strong, doubled it up with a 3mm thick plate under the RR where it bolts to the frame, job's a good'un..........

Mesh filled hole in side cover to follow once I have a spare cover to 'play' with............
 

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Hi there. I am riding an RD07 in what is usually 35+ deg Celsius here in the Philippines. My local mechanic fitted a heavy duty computer fan (rugged body - not one of those flimsy cpu things) to the regulator. It has an on-off switch located at rear of side panel so I dont have to run it in the evenings when things cool down a bit. Works a treat and very cost effective. Combined that with a dynatek charge monitor to ensure the regulator is behaving itself and the jobs a gud'un!
 

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Folks, there is a better way! Use a newer style R/R with Mosfet control instead of SCRs. They hardly get warm at all.

In fact I'm going to do such a mod to my very own Africa Twin. I'm hoping for 20-30% more output as well, because they are much more efficient. Stay tuned.
 

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XRV750 RD04
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I came across this link that you might find helpful for some ideas:

regolatore di tensione per honda africa twin 750

Though it looks like he went to extremes with the cooling, perhaps that might be helpful if you're taking it somewhere very hot. He moved the regulator to the left side of the bike, though looking at where he put it, I would expect it to get quite wet which might be a problem.

You can pick up fans pretty cheaply from ebay, particularly fans for older processors that will be going for pennies now the chips are defunct. They might not do so well and die earlier, but then you can pick them up for peanuts and they're small and light so easy to carry a spare.

I'm not sure but my thinking was that a processor fan might be better than a case fan as they tend to run faster, and are designed for mounting directly to a heatsink on a processor that gets very hot. So the application is similar. For something more rugged you could look at the fans they use in servers or industrial PCs (though these may be more expensive).

It looks like computer case cooling fans were used by the guy on that link though. In my computers I use these case fans:

Quiet PC UK - Xilence Ultra-Quiet Fans

Which seem very good for the price (you might be able to pick them up slightly cheaper again on ebay). They seem to move a lot of air inside the computer for not much money, and seem well made and quiet (not that noise will be much of an issue on the bike).

I'm thinking of cutting some slots in the fairing covered by mesh and building a little airflow tube to direct the air directly at the regulator myself though as that seems like it'd be a bit simpler and less to go wrong (assuming it actually works).

There's a guy called ATGreg here who seems to be in Australia (and has rode a lot of it through out of the way places looking at his ride reports), so if you send him a PM, perhaps he might have some tips for you too.
 

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XRV750 RD04
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Folks, there is a better way! Use a newer style R/R with Mosfet control instead of SCRs. They hardly get warm at all.

In fact I'm going to do such a mod to my very own Africa Twin. I'm hoping for 20-30% more output as well, because they are much more efficient. Stay tuned.
Would be good to hear how you get on with that. I'm sure a lot of people here would be interested.

I bought a second hand electrex regulator to carry as a spare, but that seems to get quite hot too from the admittedly limited test I did on it (though it was a bargain so can't complain really).
 

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Vendor and Supporter
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Here's the one you want for Africa Twin, the FH008



This baby will never get hot, and should output more power.
 

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I have done this mod....only take's a few minutes.

No damage required to the side pannel.

I used a bit of pipe from a fish pond pump .

When your riding this should allow some air to flow over the RR,Which does not get any air flow with it being tucked up behind the side pannel.





 
L

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Here's the one you want for Africa Twin, the FH008



This baby will never get hot, and should output more power.
Actually the power should stay stable based on the amount of power inputted into the unit, the heat will also still be produced at the same rate you're just removing it more efficiently and stopping a thermal event destroying the unit
 

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No, that's not the case. There is not the same amount of heat removed because the unit is much more efficient. It barely gets warm, ever.

A more efficient unit will output more power because it's outputting less heat.

In any case I bought one from Ebay, after I receive it I'll see how easy it is to connect and how well it works and report back. I'll compare Voltage before and after.
 
L

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Why compare voltage?? The cap will be roughly 14.4v if it's higher than that it's not more efficient it's broken ;)

Can I suggest you map input AC current to output DC current instead :p

As for SCR being less efficient YES and NO, SCR's on low DC voltage can be hard to turn off so they tend to use a MOSFET in conjunction with an SCR to turn the thing off, MOSFET's on thier own are way too susceptable to EMI and all spark based engines have a beautiful EMI generator in the form of the ignition... MOSFETS still turn the voltage on/off but they don't sink the current through a resistor like SCR's do.. So all in all they're not really more efficient but instead just run cooler at lower output ;)

It'll be interesting to see your results..and whether they have cured the EMI problems that dogged the earier units

PS..don't forget to measure the DC current you'll need probably at least a 20amp meter

[edit]

Just out of interest did anyone know that a rectifier actually runs cooler the more drain you put on the electrical system...
 

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XRV750 RD04
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I thought after showing you my heat sink, I would also show you my Lidl monitor. Complete cost £1.99 and works a treat.
Bob:thumbright:

Regulator Rec tweeking pictures by Wangit_bucket - Photobucket
:D I got one of those too, and seems to work a treat and the lights match up to my volt readings on the multimeter too, though I'm still a bit wary of it going up to 15.5 volts before the overload light comes on (not sure if the bike battery will deal with that as well as a car battery which I guess these are designed for).

For the price it's a bargain so can't complain really. I still haven't got around to fitting it permanently yet though :(
 
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