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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi there,
i need to get the barrel off - which means loosening the four 9mm bolts and a few smaller ones on the sides. as i had a bit of bad luck with the bolts on the head and cover (3 of them sheared off) i am a little worried about taking them out especially since it broke the 3/4 to 1/4 adapter but then 1/4 drives are probably too weak for that sort of thing.
should i just get a 3/4 drive socket and put as much force on it as possible? what is the likelihood of these bolts braking?
many thanks
 

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If you're at all doubtful about them coming out cleanly you should use all the weapons available before wading in with the 'brute force and ignorance' approach.

First I would drown the little buggers in PlusGas and leave to soak overnight (or longer if you can).

If they still won't shift a little bit of heat (up to cherry red if you're feeling violent!) might work wonders.

In extreme cases I have found the application of an impact driver to be quite effective - my driver has a ½" head which suits my old Kamasa ½" sockets just fine.

After that I would be looking at a 3ft breaker bar with a lump of scaffold on the end!

You're welcome

Disclaimer - IKBA - if you bugger up your machine following my advice, don't come running to me!
 
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Hi
dont really want to be the bearer of bad news but.......they will shear, done that to mine new helicoils and now sorted out good

Baz
 

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What did I do that for...
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468 Posts
hi there,
i need to get the barrel off - which means loosening the four 9mm bolts and a few smaller ones on the sides. as i had a bit of bad luck with the bolts on the head and cover (3 of them sheared off) i am a little worried about taking them out especially since it broke the 3/4 to 1/4 adapter but then 1/4 drives are probably too weak for that sort of thing.
should i just get a 3/4 drive socket and put as much force on it as possible? what is the likelihood of these bolts braking?
many thanks

I haven't had these bolts out myself, but in my experience those little feckers are gonna break.
Did you get the Head cover bolts sorted?
If it were me (and it probably will be in the near future...I suspect my dommie has the same valve stem seal issue) I'd get a local garage to take the strain. Gonna cost a few quid but essentially painless...I haven't got the necessary space nor experience to resolve sheared bolts :( and without being unkind, nor have you based on your posts so far. Might be worth ringing round for some quotes :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i am having the ones in the head bored out and new threads put in. the barrel feels very smooth and does not have signs of wear, so maybe i'll leave that alone. if you pay someone you'll be looking at a good few hours of work, garages won't do work like that on an old bike for a fixed price. in spares i pay around £50 for the broken bolts and all the seals, the machine shop wants £15 for drilling each bolt and re-threading. so all in all under £100 - worth doing it yourself if you ask me.
 

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What did I do that for...
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i am having the ones in the head bored out and new threads put in. the barrel feels very smooth and does not have signs of wear, so maybe i'll leave that alone. if you pay someone you'll be looking at a good few hours of work, garages won't do work like that on an old bike for a fixed price. in spares i pay around £50 for the broken bolts and all the seals, the machine shop wants £15 for drilling each bolt and re-threading. so all in all under £100 - worth doing it yourself if you ask me.
Are they doing it with the engine in the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no, i supplied the cylinder head on its own. machine shops won't do it on the bike. don't be tempted to bore bolts out yourself and use easy-outs! they will brake (i know that) and can't be drilled out. then they need to be spark-corroded which costs extra.
 

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What did I do that for...
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no, i supplied the cylinder head on its own. machine shops won't do it on the bike. don't be tempted to bore bolts out yourself and use easy-outs! they will brake (i know that) and can't be drilled out. then they need to be spark-corroded which costs extra.
How did you remove it if the bolts were shagged?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
bolts seem to break just before the thread or come out and damage the thread in the aluminium. the bolt in front of the spark plug was badly corroded that i couldn't get a socket to grip. i ended up grinding the bolt head off. i also did the foolish thing to try an easy-out on one of them - removing a broken one costs you about £40 - 50.
i collected the cylinder head yesterday - 'cine engineering' did a great job drilling the stuck bolts out and putting new threads in.
 

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Good news.

Keep us posted on the seals.

Plenty of pictures :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi again,
good news - just finished putting my bike back together again. took a bit longer than i thought but while in bits i noticed that the connector from airbox to carb and engine intake were showing cracks.
at the same time i changed the camshaft for one from the dommi.
started the bike and left idling for a while and the typical start-up smoke cloud did not appear
will take the bike out later for a test ride and post update.
thanks for all your advice
joachim
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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hi there,
i need to get the barrel off - which means loosening the four 9mm bolts and a few smaller ones on the sides. as i had a bit of bad luck with the bolts on the head and cover (3 of them sheared off) i am a little worried about taking them out especially since it broke the 3/4 to 1/4 adapter but then 1/4 drives are probably too weak for that sort of thing.
should i just get a 3/4 drive socket and put as much force on it as possible? what is the likelihood of these bolts braking?
many thanks
centre punch the centre of the remaining stud and drill it out starting with very small drills working your way up then put a tap down there to clean the thread out.
You got 1 bolt out so you know how deep you need to drill and you can use the other bolt to tell you what thread pitch it is. Or if you've got a set try putting an easy out down there
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well, i never did take the barrel off in the end. my oil burning problem is sorted after i replaced the valve shaft seals. i promised myself never to try and use easy-outs again other then on soft screws like brass. every-time i tried easy outs on steel bolts they broke and i ended up with loads more work. maybe i just can't use them right or used rubbish tools...
 
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