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Discussion Starter #1
There are a few threads where people talk about replacing these bushings, but getting them out proved to be a much harder job than I'd expected.

Here's a list of the tools I needed, though you might not need all of them :
  • vice with padded jaws
  • hammer
  • small chisel and/or old screwdriver blade
  • stanley knife
  • slide hammer bearing puller
  • 3/8" socket bar
  • socket (approx 13mm)
  • two large G-clamps and a large spanner
  • drift (old socket bar will do)
First thing to realise is you cannot push the bushings out using a vice and a socket because the yoke has an inner rim separating the two halves:

DSC00021.JPG


The bushings consist of a metal cone inside a metal casing, the gap between being filled with dense, tough rubber. It is easier to access the bushings on the top of the yoke, so I began by cutting into the rubber as best as I could with a stanley knife. With a long thin blade it might even be possible to cut the entire cone out, though you'll probably break several blades. I then used a bearing puller with a slide hammer to pull the cones out but it still wasn't easy.

For the lower cones I used a different approach of pushing them out with a socket as far as I could from above then, cutting away at the exposed rubber. The shape of the yokes means you can't do this in a vice, so I cobbled something like this together:

DSC00022.JPG


DSC00023.JPG


It was then easy to wiggle out the exposed cone using a 3/8 inch socket extension bar which is almost a perfect fit.

DSC00024.JPG


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Before trying to remove the casings I cleaned away some of rubber mess using a wire brush attachment on a drill.

You really need a vice for the last part, and it is not easy. Hammer away at the rims of the casings with a chisel or old screwdriver. You want to get the edges bending considerably inwards and you can then hammer the casing out from the other side using a drift or something similar. You may need to hammer in two or three places around each rim, as these casings are in there very tight.

164422



No sir, you definitely can't reuse them.

Please tell me if you know of any suitable replacements! The dimensions seem to be 26 by 14.8 mm with a 12 mm hole for the bolts.
 

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HI Bowf...These were mentioned at my MOT that they may need attention soon ! I was told it was a very simple job of new cone's ? Handlebars off, undo the bottom nuts and a washer above and below the cone's and re-tighten to squeeze the rubbers tighter may do the job !. I did buy cone's that came with bar extension bracket risers from China on ebay. These did not have metal sleeves on the outside of the rubbers ?. I didn't do the job as the bottom nuts were too stubborn and the parts are still in the bike shed spares dept...nuts still being release fluid'd...Hope mine are different to yours and my MOT man is correct...Don't think my new ones had 12mm holes holes either..maybe 10mm...All that looks a bit more than simple....
 

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Hi Andy, I saw something similar to the new cones you mention on eBay. It will be a pleasant surprise if they fit the Alp. Today I ordered a length of polyeurethane bar for about £12. There's a guy at my work who should hopefully be able to tailor it to size on a lathe. I will probably just go for a hole through the middle rather than include a metal sleeve.

PS Don't suppose you are any relation to Ian?!
 

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PS Don't suppose you are any relation to Ian ?

No relative named Ian that i know off...unless he's from Suffolk or Norfolk ? Where a whole gang of our family disappeared from Dagenham too..about 75 years ago....
 

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There are a few threads where people talk about replacing these bushings, but getting them out proved to be a much harder job than I'd expected.


Please tell me if you know of any suitable replacements! The dimensions seem to be 26 by 14.8 mm with a 12 mm hole for the bo
Here is an alternative that has worked well for me and a few friends:
The bushings were loose and squishy and I couldn't hold a tight line with the handle bars pointing one way and the front wheel pointing another way.
I ruined a top triple clamp trying to get out the bushings. There is no replacements and the idea of machining some hard plastic was deemed impractical.
I had a spare triple clamp and when I was putting it on I added large washers from my orphan parts bin under the bolts that held the handlebar clamps. The inside diameter was the same as the post on the clamps and the outside diameter was greater than the surrounding triple clamp hole.
This locked the handle bar clamps to the triple clamps. There was no loose movement and the feel from the front wheel was precise and immediate.
I suppose that there is some slight vibration that the old rubber mounts was supposed to damp out but it's nothing I've noticed. My last trip on the bike was just under 1000 miles and I had no numb or tingly feelings in my hands or arms. Even if there were, I'd gladly trade it for the improved steering both on and off the road.
All for a couple of washers and a few minutes time to take to nuts off and put the washers under them.
It's what worked for me. YMMV,
 

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Hi braunj...Sounds similar to the MOT man's instructions with the washers. I will question him later..i think he said use smaller diameter washers to compress the rubber bush's to take out any loose movement. Nice to know there's an alternative fix either way if I ever get the bottom nuts un-done...I may have wasted a very small bit of cash on the cones then !
 
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