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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

Anyone got any tips on how to hold the Alt rotor still whilst losen the super tight lefthand thread centre nut.

the engine is out of the bike and I cant seem to source a rotor strap from anywhere.
 

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Hi Ted
If the clutch is still on the engine it might be possible to hold the centre nut and allow you to undo the stator ,sorry can't think of anything else.
 

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That nut should have been removed, when the engine was in the frame, that was my mistake when I removed my engine. You could try a strap wrench on the roter, but it needs to be a good one. Or you could drill two holes in the nut then split the nut with a chisel, but you do need to be carful not to catch the thread with the drill. Both the generator and cluthh nuts are a sod to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rotor Strap needed

yup...I should have known that but i stupidly asumed that I could find a rotor strap from somewhere.

Thats my next question.. does anyone know where i can get a good quality rotor strap from ????
 

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Can you drop it into 1st and get an impact hammer to shock the thread, it may turn the engine over slightly but the shock load should be enough to loosen the nut...gently does it and keep it square, squirt some Plus Gas in to loosen the threads and prevent thread galling.

Lots of problems can be sorted with a Kinzo (my best friend) :lol:
 

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p.s. I said gently does it!, make sure you take up any backlash in the gears or they will spin round into mesh and get bent!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm

I considered this but you see, the barrels are also off (im changing the rings and cam chains).

This means any crankshaft movement will inevitably get the pistons jammed into the lower resess as they drop a little into the crankshaft cavety. This also means that the crankshaft has very little resistance and the rotor spins quite easily in gear. I really dont want to risk any damage. I just gotta find a flippin rotor holder from somewhere..

If anyone will flog me one, ill pay a good price
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Problem Solved

I have finally found what i need.

I was searching for the wrong tool. The tool i need is called a:
"strap wrench"

I prob searched in every different search heading imaginable apart from the most obvious... lol
 

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Call me smug but I did say a Strap Wrench :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
AAAAAAAAH

Right, well no muscle in this world was going to get that bolt loose. I had to take the engine to a local garage and use a blow torch and a HUGE airgun to losen the rotor bolt. I tried a rotor strap, with 2 mates and two 4 foot breaker bars and it wouldnt budge.

Well, its off now and iv just discovered every rotor puller i have wont get the Alternator rotor off ...ahhhhh. Anyway know where i can get one for the @ ?

Cheers guys, ed
 

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Stick the motor in the back of a car/van and get thee to a hire shoppe!

When/if you get to putting it back together and before you put the alternator back on, wipe the thread with autosol or grinding paste and screw the nut on and off by hand a couple of times to polish up the threads. It sounds like the threads did pick up as you were undoing the nut, this is sometimes reffered to as "cold welding" for obvious reasons and polishing will help get rid of any pick up (you could have also deformed your nuts - ooh painful).
If you can't get the nut on by hand easily you will need to buy/borrow a die and re-cut the threads, you should also buy a new nut.
Guess you didn't bother with the Plus Gas? this really helps unsieze stiff nuts (ooh-err) and lubricates the threads to help stop pick up.
clean the threads to remove any paste and lubricate with copper or molybdinum grease before re-assembly.
Torque up to the specified value only! everything will tighten up more when the engine warms up again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The bolt and thread seem to be in great shape, once it was cracked off it came out nice and smoothly and goes back in just as nice.

My problem is getting a rotor puller... My local tool shops dont have any that match the thread :(
 

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tedmagnum said:
The bolt and thread seem to be in great shape, once it was cracked off it came out nice and smoothly and goes back in just as nice.

My problem is getting a rotor puller... My local tool shops dont have any that match the thread :(
Try the bikes rear axle instead.
 

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tedmagnum said:
The bolt and thread seem to be in great shape, once it was cracked off it came out nice and smoothly and goes back in just as nice.:(
Ted, sorry I was thinking of a different design, glad the screw (not nut) came out Ok, I've not done this on an AT.

Yen, guess you've done this before on an AT? does the action of screwing a bolt in pull the rotor off a taper or other location on the shaft? or does it require screwing the bolt in and sliding something heavy along the bolt to whack the bolt head to release the rotor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Its quite simple, if you have the tools

to release the rotor, you need a threaded bar/ spindle /rotor remover which screws down through the hollow centre of the Alt rotor and pushes agaisnt the tapered shaft thus pushnng the rotor off the shaft as the the thread is tighened. All i need is a threaded bar with a 20/21mm correct thread, or pay honda 100 quid for the official tool. All the rotor removers i see advertised are too small or have the incorrect thread. i have about 4 rotor removers which have worked fine on every rebuild iv done for dfferent bikes...trust the @ to be a bitch

ARRRRSE
 

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Was your rear axle no good then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I havnt tried it...

I havnt tried it yet to be honest. Does this really fit ??? The threads on the Rotor seem a wider groove than the rear axel.
 

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Re: I havnt tried it...

tedmagnum said:
I havnt tried it yet to be honest. Does this really fit ??? The threads on the Rotor seem a wider groove than the rear axel.
I'd heard about it as a rumour for years and it did work the two times I actually did it, once on an XT 225 and once on an XL250. Worth a try eh.
 

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Ted
If Yen's suggestion doesn't work do you have a machine shop nearby? they should be able to machine you one from bar and identify the correct size thread, M20 would make sense M21 is non-prefferred size, it may also be a finer thread than normal?
If they turn the thread onto a 20mm bar and put a 10mm hole further along with a 10mm tommy bar inserted, that should do the trick.

Alternatively if it is just an M20 standard (coarse) thread, get to an engineering hardware shop and try just using an M20 bolt!
 
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