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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I got attacked by the side-stand switch gremlin on Saturday. All set for a spin out - side stand up, engine running, clutch in, snick into gear - engine dies. Try again - same thing. Ho hum, wheel the bike back in and out with the tools.........

This would appear to be a case of "physician, heal thyself" - I must have pontificated enough times on the electrical doings of the starter circuits on TA and ATs. ;)

So, this is going to be a "How To" on sorting out the side-stand switch.

First off, off with the Left Hand Side Panel -

View attachment 23486

The big block, with all the wires going into it, is the CDI and above and to the left if the fuse box. It makes life a bit easier if the fuse box is released from the bracket holding the CDI -

View attachment 23487

It is only clipped onto the bracket. To slide it off you will need to gently depress the tang that is situated between the two rails moulded into the side of the fuse box - position indicated by the arrow.

You will also need to release two cable clamps -

View attachment 23488

The clamp indicated by the Red arrow holds three cables onto the bottom of the bracket. The clamp shown by the Blue arrow is taped to the wires to the side-stand switch and clips onto a "pip" on the frame down tube.

Now by moving the CDI and bracket to the left we can finally get at the connector that carries the side stand switch wiring - it is the Green connector indicated by the arrow.

View attachment 23489

If you want a quick and dirty solution you now disconnect the side stand switch connector and replace it with a connector made up with a shorting link. This will get you going BUT you will have to ensure that the side stand is UP before you set off. On your own head be it.

I did make up a shorting link to confirm that it was the side-stand switch that was the cause of the problem.

If you want to delve further, then read on..........



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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The side stand switch is bolted to the back of the side-stand mounting bolt and, of course due to its location, be liberally covered in all sorts of chain lube and road grit etc etc. I forgot to take any photos of the switch location and its removal. But this is what you get (not my photo) -

View attachment 23491

That will be £51.18 (inc VAT but no postage) - Part No: 35700-MCB-305. For this price you get what you see in the picture - the switch and the lead (and the switch mounting bolt too, I think). So, it is sold as a compete "unit".

Further inspection, after a thorough cleaning, reveals that the cable is actually plugged into the switch and not actually part of it -

View attachment 23492

Naughty Honda!

A further inspection reveals that the switch can be dismantled. By using two appropriately sized 1/4" and 1/2" sockets, the switch can be pressed apart -

View attachment 23493

So what we have is the casing that has fixed tracks moulded into it, a curved slider and a rotor that contains three very small springs -

View attachment 23494

Don't loose the springs - they are VERY small.

Here's a more "exploded" view -

View attachment 23495

After a good clean up I found that the rotor comes to bits as well -

View attachment 23496

What we have here is the rotor itself, a shim or spacer and a bog standard industrial rotary seal (sized 20x28x4.5).

Here's a closer look at inside the housing -

View attachment 23497

After a good clean up it can be seen that there are three sections to the internal conductive track -

View attachment 23498

You can see that there is a definite "track" made by the slider - in fact the underlying copper can be seen to have corroded to a dark brown colour. The two crimps are there temporarily for testing purposes. The three sections connect to the three terminals -

View attachment 23499

Right then, that's the switch dismantled and cleaning can start.



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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The internal tracks of the switch appear to be silver plated copper and the silver has been worn away and the underlying copper has started to corrode, which is the heart of the problem. So, out with the Brasso and silver cleaning solution (and a whole pile of those cotton buds doo-dahs) and this is what we end up with -

View attachment 23500

Not brilliant, I admit, but better than it was. You can actually see that the true colour of the copper is coming through.

Here we have all the components laid out ready for reassembly -

View attachment 23501

And this is how the slider mates with the rotor -

View attachment 23502

A liberal coating of silicone grease to keep out the damp and crud and it all goes together nicely. In fact the large seal pressed in just with firm finger pressure.

It might not last forever, but it will do at least until I get around to ordering a new one. The shorting link I made earlier will remain with my tools on the bike - just in case. :D

I have been wondering about the feasibility of repairing the silver coating by electroplating. This needs further thought.........



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Great write up Tony

That looks like the same switch on the varadero so may be of use there also
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great write up Tony
Ta :thumbup:

That looks like the same switch on the varadero so may be of use there also
Checked on www.bike-parts-honda.com for a 1999 XL1000V Varadero and the Part Number comes out as 35700-MBB-305 rather than 35700-MCB-305. Looks to be fitted "the other way around" to the Transalp too -

Varadero -



Transalp -




So, yes I'd say that they were made the same but just opposite handed. Anyone care to confirm?



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My Varadero has the same one i replaced it a couple of years ago i think as it packed up. Then found how easy they are to take apart, so i now have a working spare one
 

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Nice work Tony. I anticipate this post may be very valuable to quite a few in the months and years to come.
Any chance it can be "stickied"?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi lutin

Very good how to .. I am interested in the shorting link you made , so I can make one and pop under the seat if failure happens when out on the road .

Can you explain which of the 3 contacts need shorting in the plug ?

Cheers LWR
Sorry for the delay in replying.

The shorting link I made was for the side-stand switch connector in the main loom under the left hand side panel. It uses a 2 pin "mini-connector" similar to this 6-pin version -




If you want to put the shorting link at the switch end of the link cable, then it is the two outer pins that you will need to short together.

Anything else, just ask.



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Good Job Lutin, just followed your instructions today and fixed my switch, I'll not bother making a shorting link though because it it goes again and leaves me stuck I'll just cut the wires and short them that way which would work fine until I could get a new switch.

Thanks for the write up.
 

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Thank you very much for this link Lutin...my bike gave some splutters, missed a few beats, so I stopped to investigate....and it cut out and wouldn't restart...LUCKILY... I remembered this posting, and kept working the sidestand and it got her going. Got home and duplicated the problem again, and again..then swabbed and cleaned everything up with isopropyl alcohol...now all ok. Have now made a short link wire for the green and green/white wires in the GREEN connector under the seat using 2.8mm female spade connectors, and am carrying a 10mm box spanner for the side panel bolts and seat bolts for my XL600v TA. BUT...I reckon I caused this myself ! by cleaning all the crap out from the belly pan when doing work on the bike over winter..in future i'll protect the sidestand pivot area really well...BUT NOW...IF IT HAPPENS AGAIN I CAN BYPASS THE SWITCH AND CARRY ON IN MINUTES....CHEERS AGAIN...going to carry some spare fuses and tools now as well.....
 

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Hi Nige...I cant remember the link details or if the PC link worked for me, but i am sure there was a write up, but if it's any help mines an old 99 model 600v and the colours to join together on mine are green/white and green in the green connector under the seat..it's in my thanks reply to original poster...good luck.
 
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