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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I had my first test ride following the rebuild last night and another today.

I haven't done anything to the insides of the engine. The only thing I changed was the spark plugs.

Admittedly I still haven't managed to get the airbox connectors seated properly on the carbs. However it is running very rough.

It starts off ok, then when you get to about 3rd gear it feels very lumpy and feels like its really struggling when you try to accelerate. It wasn't that smooth beforehand, but its definitely a lot worse now.

One thing I have noticed is that the vacuum pipe from the fuel tank to the brass connector on one of the cylinders keeps popping off. Should this be clamped on? I don't recall removing a clamp.

I will try and get the *&&!$ airbox connected properly later. But does anyone have any suggestions what could be the problem?

Cheers
 

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Use clips or little clamps to keep vacuum pipe attached as that helps with fuel flowing to carbies - check for splits and that it is connected nice & tight.

Make sure airfilter is clean and airbox is on securely as otherwise fuel/air mixture will go skewiff. WHen were carbs last balanced?
 

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Thanks for that.

I have used a cable tie to hold the vacuum pipe in place for now. I will have another go at connecting the airbox properly later and let you know how I get on.

I have also just put more petrol in the tank as I am wondering if I might have dislodged some sediment etc as I pretty much emptied it out during the rebuild.

No idea when the carbs were balanced. Certainly not since I have had it.

It has always popped/backfired quite a bit on the overrun. Could that also be a sign of out of balance carbs?
 

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"popped/backfired"

Usually a sign of airleak in intake / exhaust system.

The vacuum hose should stay on as ID (internal diameter) of hose should be smaller than the fitting it attatches to. Has it split / material hardened?. Might
want to think of replacing it with a fresh length of rubbery hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its a very soft rubbery hose. It slips over the brass nozzle very easily, and then seems to pop back off just as easily. Hopefully the cable tie will help.

I will check for splits etc later.
 

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It has always popped/backfired quite a bit on the overrun
this happens when the airbox is not seated correctly and there are leaks. i had to seal mine with silicone plumbers sealant
 

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I found a bit of silicone grease helped the airbox rubbers to fit properly onto the carbs: it is a fiddly job though, as is getting at the clamps to tighten them once the rubbers are seated.
(and as for refitting the choke plunger/cables after removing/refitting the carbs ...........:angry5: )
 

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Update:

Got my Dad round to help and he suggested we make a small hook out of a coat hanger to use to pull the rubber onto the carb where it was not working, also used some silicone grease which helped and also 'sealed/stuck' the other hose onto the airbox with some sealant.

Just been for a quick run round the block and it all seems good. Still pops just a little on the overrun, but I can live with that.

Taking it to a local bike mechanic tomorrow for a safety check to make sure I haven't left any crucial bolts loose etc. and also get a new MOT

Thanks everyone for your help!!!

:toothy8:
 

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Update:

Got my Dad round to help and he suggested we make a small hook out of a coat hanger to use to pull the rubber onto the carb where it was not working, also used some silicone grease which helped and also 'sealed/stuck' the other hose onto the airbox with some sealant.

Just been for a quick run round the block and it all seems good. Still pops just a little on the overrun, but I can live with that.

Taking it to a local bike mechanic tomorrow for a safety check to make sure I haven't left any crucial bolts loose etc. and also get a new MOT

Thanks everyone for your help!!!

:toothy8:
as mentioned previously, popping on decel isn't unusual, it just indicates a momentary lean condition.

I'm coming from the VW aircooled world, where air seems to leak from every conceivable orifice, and vacuum leaks are commonplace: one worthwhile test to check whether you've any leaks (carb to manifold, manifold to airbox, vac lines etc.) is to run the engine for a few mins until warm, then spray WD40 (or butane gas) around the suspect joints/hoses...if the revs pick up you have an air leak, no change suggests alles ist in ordnung:hitler:

Leaks can also develop when badly seated components expand relative to one another, so it's always worth redoing the test when the engine's hot...don't worry, it's perfectly safe

and if you use WD40, your engine will be that bit cleaner....:D
 
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