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Discussion Starter #1
Noticed that my chain was looking rather rusty yesterday and figured the Scottoiler musn't be doing its job. So two questions really

Do Scottoilers get gunked up and what should I do

Also should I look to clear up the chain in someway and will the revitalised oiler be enough or should I go buy some Lube ?

As always thanks for the sage advice/abuse :)
 

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The nozzle on the Scottoiler can get gunked up, especially if you have been riding in "dirty" weather.

Pull the applicator tube out of the feed tube, clean it up and put it back. I'm assuming that you only have the single feed?

A quick clean up of the chain with paraffin and an old toothbrush would probably not go amiss. Tip - cover the wheel and floor with old newspaper before you start as the crud will get everywhere. Leave the chain to dry and then just dribble some oil (either Scottoiler's own or EP90 or similar) onto the chain whilst turning the rear wheel by hand - assuming you have a centre stand.

Maybe you should have turned the Scottoiler up a bit more to get a higher flow as the cold affects the viscosity (thickness) of the oil. Oh, and turn it down again in the warmer weather to come (Optimists R Us). :D



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I would say rust on the link end plates is nothing to worry about. Rust on the links themselves is less desirable.

Firstly, I would check the delivery nozzle. Wiggle a needle or piece of wire in the end to remove any gack. If the nozzle feeds onto the rear sprocket, the slanted face of the nozzle should be pointing away from the sprocket surface. Then check your feed line for any air-locks ot bubbles.

Then make sure you have winter viscosity oil in the reservior, and finally check your flow rate. Also check you vaccuum cap is not loose at the engine's injector port.

I would say that, as long as the link surfaces are clean and lubed you would be OK. After all, the end plates do not move. You can also call Scotoiler: they've been very helpful and ull of tips when I have contacted them!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks all, now to convince the missus that this is more important than a trip to John Lewis...

Some hope :(
 

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The sideplates of the chain on teh side away from the Scottoiler nozzle seem rusty on mine too. I suspect the cold weather viscosity point mentioned is the answer. I put up the delivery rate a bit yesterday - we'll see if that does the trick. Although, as said earlier, the chain itself seems to be well lubricated still.
 

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easiest way to check if oiler blocked is :

start bike and turn upto full flow and watch for drip flowing , if okay turn down . But theses do need turning up in winter and down in summer, and a quick spray with the oil can on side links and rollers does no harm in winter.

Nowt`s perfect apart from the WIFE:angel1::p
 

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I use the chain lube method in the winter and only rely on the scottoiler in the warmer months.
 

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Funny 'cause I was going to ask the same question as my side link plates have also got a bit rusty on the outside too since the very cold weather started.

I'd just turned my Scottoiler up last week and it hasn't made much of a difference yet.

I had been given a tip that when a bike chain needs extra oil or the bike itself is laid up to use WD40 as and additional aid to prevent corrosion and it also cleans the chain at the same time so I've started doing it.
 

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MMmmmmm, not so sure about the WD40. I have found that an extra drizzle with scott oil straight from the bottle is the best solution. I'm sure you can also get different scott oils to suit various temperatures. I also use scott oil on bikes without an oiler, a drizzle before you go out is good for a days riding. There is no doubting the scott oil system it prolonged chain life on my XJR1300 no end and will do the same on the Vigor.
 

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I always "manually" lube the chain over the winter with scot oil as the scotty doesn't flow well as soon as the temp drops. I always give it a good clean every month and re oil - you'll be amazed at the crud that sticks in teh chain curteousy of the council gritters :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to all, I turned it up to eleven and that seemed to cure it.

Didn't even occur to me that the viscosity of the oil would increase in the cold which bugs me, I'm normally more compis than that. It was probably the sight of rust that scared me !!
 

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I use a small paintbrush and "paint" the chain with scottoil after any prolonged lay up.
 

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I gave my chain "a bit of loving" the other day.

Firstly I used a chain cleaner then with a tooth brush and a little WD40 I cleaned off the surface grime and rust off of the side plates from where it was under oiled during the salty cold months.

Then I manually applied some Scottoil and with a dry rag I wiped it clean and OMG what a difference, looks like new.

After all of this I went around checking the chain with the intention of having to adjust it and to my surprise it didn't need to be.

I fitted my Scottoiler after the bike & chain had both done about 500 miles and now it's just about to reach 2,000 miles so I was pretty pleasantly surprised that the Scottoiler is actually helping prolong the life of my chain.

Since cleaning it all up there is far less oil dripping from the chain/sprockets once parked after a longish ride.
 

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Firstly I used a chain cleaner then with a tooth brush and a little WD40....................

Then I manually applied some Scottoil and with a dry rag I wiped it clean and OMG what a difference, looks like new.
Phew, it's not just me that does thing like that :)

Put my scottoiler on at 300 miles, now got 3500 on and I haven't had to adjust the chain once, no tight spots, nowt.
 

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Phew, it's not just me that does thing like that :)

Put my scottoiler on at 300 miles, now got 3500 on and I haven't had to adjust the chain once, no tight spots, nowt.
I am using a PD Oiler, which does the same job, albeit with a slight difference in the mechanics of getting oil to the chain. I am most impressed with the feel of the chain having a "little drip" to keep it moist and clean. Using chainsaw oil here.
 

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I am using a PD Oiler, which does the same job, albeit with a slight difference in the mechanics of getting oil to the chain. I am most impressed with the feel of the chain having a "little drip" to keep it moist and clean. Using chainsaw oil here.
I thought of using chainsaw oil as its very cheap compared to scotoil. But someone told me it was no use it was too thick or thin cant remember which. How do you get on with using it.?
 

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I thought of using chainsaw oil as its very cheap compared to scotoil. But someone told me it was no use it was too thick or thin cant remember which. How do you get on with using it.?
No probs. I guess if the temp was below freezing it might be an issue, but that will not bother me..... The bike stays in the garage in that sort of weather! The maker suggested using EP80 which I do have around as well, but I like the anti fling properties of the chainsaw oil.

:thumbright:
 

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I already had a Scottoiller fitted to the bike when I bought it and replaced the chain at 29000 miles.
I fitted a new chain and larger front sprocket, it needed the wheel as far forward as it would go, expecting the Original Honda sprocket rubber to wear down and bed the sprocket and chain in, I was expecting to do an adjustment shortly after that but the chain is still correct.
 

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I'm currently using used engine oil in my scotty.

I did around 15k manualy lubing before that, then started filling the scotoiler with engine oil (new) then ran out of that one morning (was doing 110Miles a day at the time) so used old oil, Works just as well, currently on a few thousand miles with no adjustment needed (had a new tyre fitted for piel island so actually had to slacken the chain a touch for extra weight with pillion and luggage!)

Axe
 
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