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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Coming home last night, Whiplash died as if the kill switch had been hit (it hadn't). Quick once-over = no spark, replaced plug and all was well ....... for 4 miles when the b*tch did the same. 3 miles from home (mostly uphill), pitch black, middle of feck all, I was not happy (cue Basil Fawlty and the Austin 1100) - thank {insert favoured Deity here} for mobile phones (and SWMBO). Suffice to say, a Dominator will fit in the back of a Citroen Berlingo Multispace, as long as you don't mind bungee-ing the back door to the rack and leaving the sliding door open on one side for the front wheel.

In the shed today with multimeter at hand, first thing I spotted was a loose low-tension feed to the coil - "Aha!" quoth I, "The culprit has been revealed". If only that were so, still no sparks - bugger! Prodding all the connectors with the multimeter gives me readings slap bang where the manual says they should be, so the troubleshooting flowchart tells me the CDI unit is borked.

Question for the great brains: is there any way to check the CDI unit before forking out what is probably an extortionate amount for a replacement? Surely there must be a checklist of resistances or summat for the connectors I can prod with my meter to verify that it is indeed NFU? Also - could the CDI have been killed by having the low tension lead disconnect itself - I know you can upset these things by turning over without a sparkler in place, but what about an open circuit on the other side?

I wouldn't mind, but it's a cracking day for a bimble - I may have to nick the nippers 125 just to de-stress myself!

Any and all info will be much appreciated.
 

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Sounds a little like my problems, there is a way of checking the electronic ignition but not sure how,sorry.Hope you find the problem and the solution. Looking at this post with interest ith ref to my post.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I've been over everything that I can check again, continuity, resistance etc. and it still all points to the CDI. That Silvers chappie down in Suffolk has just benefitted from my over-stretched credit card - hopefully the Jiffy will turn up before everything collapses for the Festering season.

Watch this space!
 

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You can check CDI unit verifing that when you crank the engine it outputs to the ignition coil pulses of about 175 V. Be very CAREFUL testing this.
If unsure try swapping the CDI unit of another Dommie or transalp or Africa Twin (i can provide here if you need, codes and wiring to make them work on the Dommie).
You can't test it by measuring the resistance at CDI output connector because it is capacitor coupled (infinite Ohm).
Instead you can check the resitance of the primary and secondary winding, respectively 0,4-0,6 Ohm and 14k - 23 k Ohm (whit spark plug cap)
Here you can see the tipical output to the coil http://digilander.libero.it/thestrangehat/scope.jpg.
Here, where i live we use to repair that kind of CDI unit with a small amount of money, it's a common fault.
 

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Just a thought but try closing the plug gap up to a very small one so the spark has not so far to jump it may get you mobile while you sort out a CDI

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
She's Alive!

Nice Mr Silver sent me a shiny new CDI, postie couldn't squeeze it through the letterbox so I picked it up this morning on the way to work. Came home, went straight to shed and plugged in my new purchase - I got sparks again!

Just back in from the shed, Miss W has got her clothes back on - poor thing has been sitting naked in the shed all week in temperatures down to -8! I was tempted to go for a 'test ride', but then I looked at the outside thermometer, -3½ and falling, think I'll leave it until the morning.

Moral of this tale is: when the Honda workshop manual flowchart says it's the CDI gone west, you'd better believe it!

I is happy again.
 
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