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Discussion Starter #61
update..

new lower yoke bearing installed ok, using the installer pictured. and after putting yoke in freezer overnight, and the bearing in a 100 degree C oven for 45 mins




IMG_20191102_113725.jpg


IMG_20191102_113732.jpg
 

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Moving on with it then :thumbup: Just make sure there are no burrs whatsoever in the outer race bearing housings or the races won't sit properly. That tool looks handy I managed with a long tube spanner.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
update...success!.....new races in

i cleaned up the inside of the headstock, (where the new races would sit) with sandpaper (as oppose to using a dremel), this worked ok as it seems like soft metal

i put the new races in the freezer overnight, and heated the headstock a little with a heatgun (i am not sure if this was needed), they did need some hitting to get them, but it was easy by using the old races as a "buffer" between the new race and the hammer, like in this video


IMG_20191103_135506.jpg

IMG_20191103_131640.jpg



https://youtu.be/yvgIRuRHSrQ?t=1051
 

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Discussion Starter #64
does anyone have any tips about re-assembling the front end? specifically how tight to do the castellated nut (the one that sits on top of the bearing) - the manual says 3nm (ie not very tight at all), and the manual says the big top nut should be 120nm (ie very tight), but I have read that tapered bearings do not need to be torqued up as much?
 

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the castle nut only needs to be tightened until the play has gone and the yolks turn side to side freely, the top nut will still need to be tightened to 120Nm you may have to adjust the castle nut again once the bike has been used
 

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well, the lower race in the headstock is out

and this is what is left

i thought all of the silver bit was the race, hence the mess...
A bit late now but when I've removed the steering head bearings on bikes in the past, if its difficult to get a drift to locate on the bearing I've ground some of the metal away opposite sides of the bearing before putting the new ones in so if there ever was a next time i could get the drift onto the bearing without any problems
something like I've drawn in red on the photo below


1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #67
yeah, the problem is the wheel, forks and top yoke have to come off in order to be able to get to the castellated nut!

the castle nut only needs to be tightened until the play has gone and the yolks turn side to side freely, the top nut will still need to be tightened to 120Nm you may have to adjust the castle nut again once the bike has been used
 

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yeah, the problem is the wheel, forks and top yoke have to come off in order to be able to get to the castellated nut!
Yup its a pain, you might be able to get to the castle nut with a thin C spanner or just push it round with a screwdriver as you say its very low torque so don't need much to tighten it
 

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Discussion Starter #69
yes, you can access the castellated nut from the side using a screwdriver and a hammer

anyway, the bike is back together, so just a test ride to see now..
 

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yes, you can access the castellated nut from the side using a screwdriver and a hammer

anyway, the bike is back together, so just a test ride to see now..
:thumb: After a ride i would get the front end off the floor and check for any play by pulling the bottom of the fork legs forward and back
 

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Discussion Starter #72
the hardest part was getting the bearing off the lower yoke and getting the races out of the headstock.

like all these things if you have the right tools and a lot of patience it's ten times easier!

i am glad i bought that bearing installer, as i think i would have struggled to get the bearing on the lower yoke without it
 
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