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Hi Folks,

Just had a few quotes for replacing the steering head bearings on my RD07A and some are up to £130 without the bearings (which I already have) . Question is having never done this before could I do this job myself, would I need any tools specifically for the job or would I be better off biting the bullet and paying a garage to do it?

Thanks for any advice :thumbright:
 

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If you're reasonably competant with tools it's not too difficult, and is indeed fairly straight forward if you follow the Haynes manual.
The most difficult part is getting the lower bearing race off the steering stem....a cold chisel should budge it off the bottom of the stem, then I find it easiest to very carefully cut through most of it with a grinder (or dremel, perhaps), then carefully whack the incision with the chisel and it'll snap. I've only used OE ball bearings for my @ so can't comment on tapered ones.
Tightening the adjuster nut, after everything's back together, needs to be done carefully so as to remove all free-play from the new bearings without over-tightening them - the handlebars should fall freely from the centre position to both sides, and it's good practise to check and perhaps marginally tighten again after a few hundred miles.
Luckily, I had lots of practise when doing my C&G stuff many moons ago!
For a first time, as always, there's a big learning curve - I'd allow all day for this.
 

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I'd go for tapered ones.
Work stays the same.

Re-tightening the adjuster nut after some hundred km's was a must in my case.
 

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Same as above.
Removing the races is a smallish job compared with removing all the gubbins.

I dremmeled partly through to make removal easier.

I do want to try the weld method next time. That's not the weld all round job some talk about, but weld a bar across the race and knock them out.
 

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As has been said above. What I did a few years ago when I totally rebuilt my (91) RD04 was to drill a small hole in the headstock, thread it and put a grease nipple in there.
Then filled the headstock with grease.
 

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Maybe it's me but I find removing the races the biggest/most awkward part of the precedure.

I have tried various methods with varying degrees of success and seems unnecessarily awkward when alloy framed Hondas (ok, vfrs) have nice little notches machined into the frame to make removal of the outer race a simple affair.
Removal of the lower inner race invariably means ruining the dust seal.

A regular strip and grease of the bearings prevents the need for replacement and is a far simpler process IMHO ;)

sent from my 'phone
 

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Toolbox
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I´ve done the races on the RD07 several times and it was never any problem at all to get them out, as the available "lip" is thick enough to tap them out. No need for using a dremel etc. This is not true however for the RD13 Transalp where there is zero lip available and I have no idea at all how the guys in the shop get them out.

Cheers
Chris
 

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Just done mine on RD07 .you tube and Internet helped used ball type bearing .bearing races in freezer for 24 hrs take your time .thinking back was fairly easy .
****
 

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I´ve done the races on the RD07 several times and it was never any problem at all to get them out, as the available "lip" is thick enough to tap them out. No need for using a dremel etc. This is not true however for the RD13 Transalp where there is zero lip available and I have no idea at all how the guys in the shop get them out.

Cheers
Chris
On my Trannie, I dremmeled (filed away) two little bits of the headstock at 180 degrees, which then allowed me to get a purchase on the races with a drift.
 
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