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Need Constant Supervision
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Personally it sounds like a problem with the coil. I don't know if the AT's have inheritent coil problems but the last time I hade similar probs it was always wet and the bike would cut out and then start when the coil dried out. This coil was the ceramic type with a hair line crack in it. Took ages to find the problem before I narrowed it down to that.

Else you might off accidently pull on a connection when fitting the scott oiler. Check the electrical connections around the area where you fitted the oiler first moving out.

My expierence on these beasts unfortenately limits me to any other possible probs.

Hope you find the nasty little gremlin :twisted:
 

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Senior Consulting Member
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Cinman, did you remove the fuel tank when fitting the Scottoiler? If so make sure your tank breather is not blocked by any gunge or trapped somewhere - if it is a vacuum develops in the tank and prevents fuel getting to the carbs.

A simple, cheap test: Next time it does it, immediately remove your fuel cap (venting the vacuum) and try starting the bike again. If it runs fine again then you could be on the right track.
 

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Failing fuel pump can give those symptoms as well. I once heard of guy who was able to get home from a long journey having "dozens" of those few minutes cooling breaks.

Best way to diagnose would be to try another pump. The second best is to by-pass the pump altogether and have tank full of petrol. The AT would run just fine without fuel pump if your tank is over half full. However, the defective pump blocks the fuel flow so you have to plumb the carbs directly into the tank.
 

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A mate of mine had a similar problem on his way to Nepal last year. He had replaced the elec. fuel pump with a mechanical vacuum pump & thought that might be the problem. Africa Queens sent him a replacement but the problem still persisted. Running fine - cutting out - restarting after 5 mins rest. Checked all breathers, filters, jets etc. problem still persisted.
Turned out it was fuel vapourisation. A simple heat shield bent from some light aluminium sheet & bodge-taped into place between the rear cylinder & the fuel line / filter fixed the problem.

Hope this helps.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Check your regulator before buying a battery. It's under the left hand side panel, but to check it you need to use a voltmeter across the battery terminals. An easy way to see without any tools is to get the bike started, put the lights on somewhere dark and rev the engine. the lights should brighten noticeably from tickover to about 3000 rpm. If you're not sure whether they did, then I would carry on to the voltmeter check. I've got the same bike as you and my regulator failed at about 60,000 miles or 3 years old. My symptoms were very similar to yours at the time.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Just had a look at one of my manuals and your charging voltages seem ok. It says 14-15 volts at 5000rpm. Your battery reading seems a bit low as it says that should be 13- 13.2 volts. Have you cahrged the battery since your trouble?
 

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Your voltages sound bit low with the lights on: Check the multipole connector from generator to the rectifier for signs of trouble. If there are any signs melting etc on connections, redo them. I had to fix mine recently as they were badly melted.

Mine charged at just over 12 volts with the lights on. After the fix, the voltage jumped up to around 14 volts on idle again with lights on.
 

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My XRV600 had a cut out problem, rolling off the throttle it would go on to one cylinder but only after a few miles at over 60mph, stop for a few mins and it would go fine again after checking the whole fuel system/vacuums/scotoiler connections etc it turned out to be one of the CDI boxes, surprised me because it did feel like fuel starvation.

cheers
 
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