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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Had a strange problem with the bike earlier this evening...

Went down to the garage a mile away and got some bits. Then rode the bike for about another few miles. Overtook a car and was doing about 60 when all of a sudden it lost power and sounded really rough. It didn't want to rev. Whacking the throttle wide open when it was running rough (one cylinder) it would occasionally kick in to normal running mode for like a quarter of a second and then back to rough again. Pulled up and it sounded like it was running on one cylinder. Limped back home and turned it off. Turned it over and it didn't start on the first attempt. Turned it over again and it fired straight away and ran fine.

I left it for a few hours and started it up again, it fired up straight away. I took it out for about a 25 mile run and occasionally ragged it and it was running sweet as a nut.

I thought it may have been fuel, but the tank was only 40 miles from full. It's got a facet pump fitted. Lights were bright when it was running rough. If it was valves or timing then it would be like it all the time, but it's now running sweet.

I'm guessing as it was running (pretty sure) on one cylinder and now the problem has gone away that I'm looking at something electrical. I'm leaning towards a coil pack that has started to break down. Has anyone else experienced this on their bike? Could a faulty pump cause it to run on one cylinder? I checked the starter relay a month ago and everything in that area is fine. Just really odd that everything is now fine again. The run of 25 miles tonight got the bike really warmed up and it ran fine, so not one of those problems that only seems to happen when hot. I'm really stumped...

Any suggestions from you guys would be appreciated...

Thanks
 

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Beer monster.
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Hi Loggy,

It does sound more coil related, if it dropped to one cylinder, more than fuel. As there are two live feeds that fire the coils, I would check the earth and connections to the frame first. As these bikes are two plugs per cylinder, it's unlikely that it's just a plug going down, but it's a cheap option to try.
Make sure your plug caps are tight and have no signs of arcing in them too.

Awkward part is finding it now if it's running ok.

Rob.
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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I had a similar problem on the RD04 when I first got it and it was 2 front coils and 1 x HT lead

When I got mine it started first touch of the button, revved smoothly till 5500 rpm then misfired. Once the carbs were correctly balanced and set up the misfire was between 2-3000 rpm but ran strong and clean after that up to 8000 rpm +
 
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I had very similar on my way to Austin's Galloway Adventure, initially I thought it was fuel, felt like it was about to run onto reserve but didn't cut out. Initially I thought it was fuel filter - plenty of fuel & Facet fitted but no crud in filter. It happened another couple of times whilst cruising at about 5500-6000 rpm, opening / closing the throttle made no difference, after it had lost 500-1000 rpm it would pick up & go again normally. When I stopped in Penrith for fuel I went to fire it up and I lost all electrical power - lost display on trip meter, lights dimmed to nothing, starter clicked. I thought I had disturbed / damaged an auxiliary fuse holder under the seat when playing with fuel filter, removed seat - nothing amiss, replaced seat and it fire straight away. It happened once more en route but on the Forest run it never missed a beat - constantly varying throttle openings. It did it a number of times on my return home and it was always when cruising at a constant 5500-6000rpm.
Spoke to a number of people and most agreed change the Rectifier for a MOSFET just for a more reliable future. I don't think it's the spark plugs because I fitted Iridium ones earlier in the year.
Keep us posted Loggy on your findings, I really want to take my @ to the National but have reservations at the moment (Goldwing getting all excited in the garage)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replys so far guys.

I've had a restless night trying to figure out what's up with it.

Peterpan241, have to say I thought it was fuel as well and even swapped it over to reserve, despite the fact it only had 40 miles on it from a full tank. It was as if it was running out of fuel. I thought I may have knocked the fuel tap into the closed position. It was the sort of symptoms that you get when you forget to turn the fuel tap on. No power, running rough etc. Except it wouldn't cut out, it just ran on one cylinder.

A few other things to mention.

I also remember that when it was running on one cylinder it was making a bit of a knocking noise (like a big end going) but quieter. I presume this is just because it was on one cylinder. When it fired up after I turned it off it ran quiet and sweet as a nut.

I did notice that the display on my trip meter was on Trip 2. I always have it on Trip 1 and reset it after every fuel stop. It may have been knocked, but I'm sure I would have noticed it before I got to the garage. So that was weird.

I've just fitted a MOSFET reg/rec, so can't see that being the cause of it. The lights were bright when it was playing up, so it wasn't running just off the battery. Also it wouldn't make the bike run on one cylinder either.


I'm at a total loss as the bike ran fine last night. I've got this week off work, so will get it out in a bit and have a look around.

I'm with Rob and Paul, I think it is probably a coil pack. I know someone who had two out of four go on their car after a long run of it working fine. Two coil packs went resulting in absolutely no power. Or it could be the HT leads on one of the cylinders. Trouble is, I couldn't tell which cylinder was working and which wasn't...

The fact it started playing up when it had only been running for 10 minutes and then ran fine after I turned it off and back on again really has me stumped. I can't trace the problem as it's now running fine (for the moment). I will take it out in a bit and see if it does it again.

Keep the suggestions coming guys.

Thanks again...

Andy
 

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bad earth where the wires connect to coil, mine looked fine, but one was hanging on by 1 thread... discovered after i'd replaced the ht caps (easy) & the ht leads (not so easy, they don't unscrew as states in the manual, but are glued-in, & you'll need a dremmel & patience to make it good enough to insert new lead) &/or bad earth coil-frame. easy to check. dodgy side-stand switch, though that normally leads to terrible running ,coughing & spluttering with no real power.
 
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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Check front coil spade terminals for corrosion (it'll be green probably).

Weather can affect the front coil, especially if the rubber flaps on the front frame down tube are missing or damaged. I've had this kill one cylinder temporarily a few times.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I've been out on the bike again today and she is running sweet as a nut so far. I've bought some new Iridium spark plugs to replace the old Iridium plugs fitted. When I change them I will check all the wiring, HT leads etc. I popped up to Honda to ask how much the coil packs and HT leads etc would cost out of interest. £750 odd quid the computer said, but was told he could get the price down to about £450...:sad10::sad1:

Is there much to these coil packs inside too go wrong? Are they the sort of thing that either work or they dont?

So I'm going to start off at the plugs and work my way up. I'm hoping that it was just a one off and that it's solved itself. Really weird it hasn't happened again, 60 miles later. Time will tell I suppose.

Thanks for the advice guys...:thumbup:
 

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Fuel starvation comes to mind. Check the usual culprits like fuel filter or a fuel line with a sharp bend in it.
If it hasn't come back then just drive it. Why change those iridiums? I thought they lasted a million miles. :p
A little hicup...drive it. Unless your bike shows signs of corrosion throughout i kinda doubt it's the coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fuel starvation comes to mind. Check the usual culprits like fuel filter or a fuel line with a sharp bend in it.
If it hasn't come back then just drive it. Why change those iridiums? I thought they lasted a million miles. :p
A little hicup...drive it. Unless your bike shows signs of corrosion throughout i kinda doubt it's the coils.


I must admit to thinking maybe it was fuel. I rode it for 60 miles last night and today and at some points wound it right up. Left it running until the fan came on.... Nothing, not a peep of the problem I had yesterday. She is running fine. Maybe I managed to get some crud in one of the carbs? I was chatting to the Honda guy and he had a similar problem with bad fuel, water in the system that gave the same sort of symptoms. Hardly any corrosion on bike, so it shouldn't be linked to that.

Ah the Iridiums lol.... I haven't changed the plugs since I've had the bike. I was told it had Iridiums fitted by the previous owner, but god knows how many miles they have on them. I thought if I'm going to rip the tank off and check all the wiring then I might as well replace the plugs with new Iridiums at the same time. At least I will know the plugs are good and the plug gap is on the money...

Thanks for the reply GSPD...
 

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Bank holiday weekend I went on a trip around Somerset, Devon & Cornwall (500 miles) & experienced fuel starvation problems all weekend
6 months ago I'd replaced my reg/rec for a Mosfet & fitted a Facet fuel pump so I was very doubtful it was either...
Upon further investigation I found it was caused by fuel starvation due to a kinked fuel tank breather
I'd have trouble free travel for 150+ miles then it would start going 'hay-wire' & die on me...
Wait a couple of minutes or open the fuel cap & it would fire up again, no problem

Next time you experience cutting out, try removing the fuel cap & see if there's a rush of air caused by a vacume ?...
Due to the strength of the Facet pump, the vacume was so bad I struggled to get the cap off & in a couple of instances the vacume was so strong that the sides of the tank had become compressed so I could visually see the tank expand as the air rushed back into it :eek:

I'm not saying this is the answer to your problem, but it's a quick check you can make next time you conk out to delete another possibility off your list :thumbright:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for your reply Mack1...

Well I'm totally baffled what the problem was and maybe it was a fuel starvation issue after all. I went out on the bike today. Did 60 miles and she ran perfect. That's on top of the 70 miles I did after the problem occurred.

Touch wood it was just a blip. At nearly £500 for the coil packs and HT leads, I hope it's nothing to do with the coil packs. I will check the vacuum theory if it happens again, but lets hope it doesn't!!

Thanks mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi

When I first got my @ it played up, I limped home on a few occasions

It turned out to be the alarm/ immobiliser, ripped it out and problem solved.

Just a thought



Thanks Rick,

The bike did have an alarm/immobiliser fitted but the previous owner ripped it out too, so that's one less thing it could be lol..
 

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Well I had similar luck to Loggy when investigating my problem earlier today. No kinked breather pipes but I didn't think that what it would be because my @ didn't cut out. Removed both coil packs, roughed up mounting surfaces and replaced after applying waterproof grease. Checked the connections on them - no hint of corrosion, lightly greased and replaced. Replaced the fuel filter, just a routine replacement and easier in the garage than roadside. Awaiting connection packs from Eastern Beaver and then I'll replace the Reg/Rec with the MOSFET. Fingers crossed for the National.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I had similar luck to Loggy when investigating my problem earlier today. No kinked breather pipes but I didn't think that what it would be because my @ didn't cut out. Removed both coil packs, roughed up mounting surfaces and replaced after applying waterproof grease. Checked the connections on them - no hint of corrosion, lightly greased and replaced. Replaced the fuel filter, just a routine replacement and easier in the garage than roadside. Awaiting connection packs from Eastern Beaver and then I'll replace the Reg/Rec with the MOSFET. Fingers crossed for the National.


Good luck with it mate, hope the new reg/rec sorts it out.

Touch wood mine hasn't done it since. Hoping it was just a bit of crud in one of the carbs!
 

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Well just fitted new MOSFET with my replacement connectors from Kojaycat, pleased with the job. Checked I had a spark to all HT leads & changed fuel filter, my fingers are crossed for the ABR West Wales weekend. My poor Wing can't take another weekend of unreasonable behaviour, even though it was great fun!

Out of curiosity the width of my Wing 34", my @ with Ardcases 42"
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Okay, Friday the 13th has truely been a nightmare!!!

Took the bike into work this morning, running fine, and has been since the last time it played up. Fired it up to go home at 12:30 and she started fine. It ran for 10 mins and just as I was on the main road outside work the problem I had before came back with a vengeance.

She started to loose power as if the fuel tap was turned off and went on to one cylinder. I managed to get the bike to a cut out in the road where it died completely. After a few minutes I tried it again and she fired up but still on one cylinder. She ran rough as a dog for another 3-400yds and cut out again. I limped to a motorbike shop next to to work and had a chat with the mechanic and explained the situation. He got a temperature probe out and have now found out that it's the rear cylinder that stops working.

He then took the N/S plug cap off the rear cylinder and put in a new spark plug. The plug was sparking so it looks like it's not coil packs, HT leads or plugs as the engine should run fine on one plug.

I called work and they said if I could limp back to work then they would let me use a van to take the bike back home in. So after several short rides of 20mph and the bike cutting out every time I eventually got back to where I work and loaded up the bike in the back of a transit with the help of 3 other guys.

I got home and decided to try the bike again. This time she fired right up and no hint of the problem. Originally I thought it may have been crap in one of the carbs, but as the engine cuts out after a few minutes of running on one cylinder I'm starting to wonder if it's a fuel pump problem. The fuel pump fitted it a facet, but it does look pretty old.

Now as we checked the spark and that was okay and the fact the bike starts okay after a few minutes after cutting out I'm starting to rule out a blocked jet or carb as it would do this constantly. If it was coil packs then I wouldn't have had a spark, so either lifting the bike at such an angle dislodged the crap in the carb and it ran fine again, OR it's the fuel pump. The fact it runs after a few minutes albeit on one cylinder leads me to think this is a fuel pump problem judging by how long it takes for the carbs to re fill by gravity after being emptied of fuel and the symptoms of running out of fuel.

I will call Rugged Roads tomorrow. If they are in and have one in stock then I will chance a ride down in the morning and pick up a new Facet fuel pump and fit that on my return. At least it will rule out the pump. I will keep everyone posted.
 

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Have you got a diaphragm on the fuel tap actuated by the front carbs vacuum ?
I don't have a clue about the @ set up concerning the fuel system , saying that I had this sort of problem on a bike which had and found it was a small hole in the diaphragm , the fuel was going to the actuating carburetta through the hole in the diaphragm down the vacuum tube and not releasing enough fuel to the proper fuel line starving the non vacuum side .
That's only if you have a diaphragm in the fuel tap though .
 

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Beer monster.
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You could be right with the fuel pump, I'd also take a look at the pump relay. If that's breaking down it could shut your pump off intermittently.

At least you've eliminated the expensive coils!

Rob
 
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