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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I changed the rear pads. The rear brake was thoroughly cleaned on my return from the Pyrenees 4 weeks ago so I have no binding issues when I swapped the wheels over and I have run the bike since then and there are not issues. Prior to going to the Pyrenees when I changed the wheels over I cleaned it and regrease the slider. It moves a little under braking but not very much

Could not get the caliper off independantly so removed the wheel. On replacing the wheel when I tightened the nut up the wheel won't turn freely. At this stage the pads are not touching the disc as I have not pumped the piston out. I slackened off the nut and the wheel moves freely. Tighten up finger tight and it starts to stick

I removed the wheel completely, cleaned and checked the inside of all of the spacers and visually inspected the bearings and they all look clean and run smoothly.

I have put it back together but I'm unsure what to do with it next

Any ideas from the collective - don't want to take it fir a run yet incase it's a bearing issue?
 

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Born to Slide
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Sure you got the right spacer on the right side?
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The one on the brake side always stays in when the wheel comes out, whereas the chain side will drop out if I put the wheel on it's side, so they are in the right way round

If they were in the wrong way would the disc will not line up with the caliper?

I'll take them all apart and put it together again
 

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Premium Member
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Did you take the sprocket carrier off?

There is a small bush/spacer located between the sprocket carrier and the wheel. It actually lives inside the centre of the sprocket carrier bearing. If you've lost this, it could be this that's causing the binding.


:thumbup:
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you take the sprocket carrier off?

There is a small bush/spacer located between the sprocket carrier and the wheel. It actually lives inside the centre of the sprocket carrier bearing. If you've lost this, it could be this that's causing the binding.


:thumbup:
No Bob - I used the sprocket carrier specific to each wheel

I have just taken it all apart again and the brake side bearing now feels rough but the other 2 are smooth rolling so I'll try a new bearing in and see if that's the issue
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's what I was going to say. They both fit either side.
Hi Yen

Just taken all apart again

The spacers on this and the spare wheel set are the same - the drive side is physically bigger both in length and diameter and won't go in the dust cover of the brake side so I know I have them in the right way

Anyhow, see my reply to Bob, I think I might have finished off a bearing that might have been near the end of it's life as the brake side on is rumbly whereas the other 2 are still silky smooth
 

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Born to Slide
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May be but it would have to be pretty rough running to stop the wheel.

Ok let's think - the bearing has gone and the wheel gets tight when you tighten the wheel but - this sounds like it is loading up the bearing which would cause it to go. Are you sure all is where it should be?

When you say you changed the wheels - do you mean you have put a new back wheel on? Is it built to the same offset? Is there a difference between them?
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Check there is the long spacer between the wheel bearings inside the wheel. Is the brake caliper bracket sitting on its rail properly.

Does the problem go away with the previous wheel or remain, at least this would isolate the problem.
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
May be but it would have to be pretty rough running to stop the wheel.

Ok let's think - the bearing has gone and the wheel gets tight when you tighten the wheel but - this sounds like it is loading up the bearing which would cause it to go. Are you sure all is where it should be?

When you say you changed the wheels - do you mean you have put a new back wheel on? Is it built to the same offset? Is there a difference between them?
They are both AT wheels and I have been swapping them over may times - one set has TKCs on the other has the K60s

The only other thing i can think of is if I have unseated or dislodged the bearing slightly when I've taken the wheel off and refitted - feels like there is a tiny gap between the bearing and the spacer inside the wheel when I slide my finger in - I'm going to replace the bearing and see where that goes
 

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Born to Slide
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There will be a small gap but not much. Make the bearings are seated properly and not slightly off. Check for wear on the inner spacer tube - if it's worn then you will be preloading the bearings when you tighten up.
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replies

I will update the post once I get a new bearing
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There will be a small gap but not much. Make the bearings are seated properly and not slightly off. Check for wear on the inner spacer tube - if it's worn then you will be preloading the bearings when you tighten up.
The unseating is what I am thinking and if I have preloaded the bearing incorrectly it will collapse pronto !
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Paul

Item 16 in the pic is the bush I'm on about. You wouldn't know it was there... well unless you know it's there, if you know what I mean!?!?!

View attachment 18781


:thumbup:
Thanks Bob

I'll take sprocket carrier out and have a look
 

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Registered
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when u r replacing the bearing, check to see the bearing inner spacer is almost if not flush with the stop shoulder of the hub.(bit that stops the bearing going in any more) if not use shimming washers.
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
when u r replacing the bearing, check to see the bearing inner spacer is almost if not flush with the stop shoulder of the hub.(bit that stops the bearing going in any more) if not use shimming washers.
Did that on my original wheel, which is mow my spare set with TKCs on
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Update

New bearing in to replace the scratchy one - all spacers measured against they spec and all were fine

The problem was the slider at the front of the caliper not moving as much as the rear slider because the mud and dirt build up inside behind the rubber thingy was preventing full movement

When I fitted the new pads - YES NEW PADS - I could see the caliper moving and thought that was OK - it wasn't as the new pads were er new and thicker !

A corner of the pad (not the piston side) was pressing against the disc that I could not see from the back when fitting the wheel

Stripped it all out today and cleaned the slider pin up - regreased the socket and refitted the pads and wheel - all works fine now

This is the first time I have changed the rear pads - I have taken them out to clean up the piston after a dirty ride but I have never taken the sliders out. I will from now on and ensure they are greased up to keep the free movement - should only be a 2 minute job each time it gets a clean

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions

The original pads have been in for 58668 miles, the more worn one on the piston side had about 1 mm before the wear bar - not as worn as some I have seen so they probably would have lasted another 10-15,000 miles at my rate of use
 
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