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Discussion Starter #1
...ask other people how to do it ;).

Indeed, this is another Warthog Knowledge Base where I will type one emploring post and the sit back, hoping to be soon bathing in wisdom by association!!

A set of head race bearings are on order, and I then have until the 8th of July to fit them, minus 9 days when I am away.

This is a job that I've never done before and I would welcome any and all tips learnt the hard way by those of you who have.

I think I have a hang of the adjustment once in place, but it is the removal and placing of the bearing faces that worry me most: How to get the races out of the frame and, worse still, getting that race off the bottom yoke steering column.

As with the clutch, I'd like to get it done in a day...
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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A proper drift will get the races out of the head stock in 2 or 3 taps.

I found a dremel was the best way of getting the lower bearing off after getting advice here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found a dremel was the best way of getting the lower bearing off after getting advice here.
So which end of the Dremel do I hit for best results?






OK.... I'll stop typing for a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
On a more serious note, is there any "best practice" for getting those same new races into place.

With the "Dremel race" is heating it with a blow torch before hand a good idea of a bad idea. Ultimately, I don't want to affect the longevity of the bearings!
 

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They must be offered up exactly flat so they enter the space straight, otherwise they could end up febared.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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I put the new races in the freezer, then clean out the headstock. I rub a liitle 3 in 1 oil around the inside of the headstock, then tap the cold races in. I use a large socket initially to get them started then the drift on the edges to finsih them off, tapping on opposite sides. You know when they are home because the sound changes distinctly.

I put the new bearing onto the inner tube and tap that down with a long piece of steel tube (or the hoover tube if I can't find that).
 

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www.garagenight.tv/ep-5-replacing-steering-head-bearings/ step by step video of bikers & beers, do other things as well, wheel bearings etc. Worth a watch.
if you can put your bottom yolke in the freezer for an hour prior to fitting the new seal and bearing.. makes for a easier life. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
www.garagenight.tv/ep-5-replacing-steering-head-bearings/ step by step video of bikers & beers, do other things as well, wheel bearings etc. Worth a watch.
if you can put your bottom yolke in the freezer for an hour prior to fitting the new seal and bearing.. makes for a easier life. good luck
Thanks for that.

However, I can get away with putting bearing parts in the freezer, but try putting the whole yoke in, and it'll be my reproductive organs in the freezer, in a zip-bag. My girlfriend would not be impressed!!

How about the bearing face in the oven, if the yoke in the freezer is no-go?
 

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dont think you should be puttin' bearings in ovens... take to long to cook & are a little difficult to chew. check out their other vids.. v.helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great link to Garage Night: Makes it look so easy! I'll have to watch it again before I do the job mind, to get it clear in my head!!

That bloke Pete on the vid: we met him at the Argentina HU meet in 2006!! Same goatee and all!! He was riding a KTM then as well!!
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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I've done it about 5 or 6 times and it's all quite easy apart from getting the old bottom bearing off it's shaft and setting them correctly. The dremel sorted the first item, it's small size is an advantage. Making a socket for my torque wrench that fits the adjuster sorted the second problem.

I only use the freezer for the races that fit in the headstock, the bottom bearing being tapped onto it's shaft has never been any problem at normal room temperature, I use more 3 in 1 oil on the bit it has to be fitted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, their done!!

Took me about 5.5 hours!!

About 3 of those was changing the bearings. The rest was trying to get the adjustment right!!

I was getting thrown when trying it out as there was a knock when braking so I nipped it a bit tighter and so on. After a while the steering was pretty tight so I knew something was not right!!

Indeed the knocking was coming from the caliper!! So I had to start from scratch.

Finally, got it.

They are a little on the tight side. The wheel will only drop to the lock stop when it is about half way there already, but I think it will bed in a bit and loosen up.

The old set were FUBAR'ed. Dry, a bit on the rusty side, indented and the top bearing had three rollers missing: no idea where they went...
 
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