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Get a torque wrench. Please.
Peace of mind.
No stripped bolts, front axle, 4 nuts for, transalp.
Its great for the brake caliper bolts ect but its the smaller ones where i xxxxx up.
Having said that, I am prepared to rebuild my landrover engine, or bike engine, so peace of mind, you know its done right.
I think I have 4 torque wrenches, from 1 to 15 nm for the push bike, those hyraulic brakes are expensive, to 200 nm for the main crank bolt on the landrover,(sadly sold now, women? no romance when it comes to vehicles.)
I used to be a motorcycle mechanic, its always the small bolts/nuts that you strip.(First day on the job, plonker)
 

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I have a couple of the Draper wrenches that I bought from Amazon a couple of years ago, £25 for a 3/8" 10nm to 80nm one, £35 for the 1/2" 30nm to 210nm one.

Probably not the most accurate out there but good enough for me to make a better job on most fittings than just by guesswork...

One thing I try to bear in mind I guess is that the recommended torque settings from Haynes / Honda and all are for "Factory New" fixings, and maybe I should be a bit lighter-fingered when working on my car (15 y/o) and my AT (24 y/o) where they've often been removed and refitted any amount of times :)
 

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I used a torque wrench once, and only once, on a sump plug, it cracked the sump and cost me over £200 to replace. I'd never use one again. You're better of tightening things by "feel".
 

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you can tighten by feel with a torque wrench ie 'this feel a bit tight' STOP! even if it has not clicked, did I set it correctly NM or ftlb?
 

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You can't blame your tools.

I like a torque wrench for those fastenings that need it.

Unless you know the strength of the fastening you need to torque to the manufacturer s settings if you are going to bother with torquing at all.

The same thread bolt can have a four or 5 fold difference in strength depending on its manufacture. Bolts also stretch elastically and plastically so reusing a bolt is problematic if it has significant forces added to its torque during use, caliper bolts spring to mind.
 

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Hi...William's and Sykes Pickavant...I'm an old school " feely " with a spanner most of the time..BUT...I've had my collection of four torquer's calibrated 2 months ago at work by our calibration department..that do nothing but...my Williams Superslim is near perfect across the range after 40 plus years of lots of use...These two blokes have at least 30 years each experience that i know of...and say William's and Sykes as first choice's...not even Norbar or Snap-on...and they see the lot....But were amazed at my 6 year old tiny cheapy one from ebay that does 5 lb/ft--80 lb/ft that gives actuals of 5% less across the range...our works stuff has to be within 4% or it's replaced or fixed...MILITARY STUFF....£ 16 it cost then....I'll post the make if it's got one later and the seller / shop...BUT my monster 3/4 drive Draper doesn't do well, it comes up with 312 lb/ft instead of 370 lb/ft..15% out and under and has to be adjusted accordingly, but it is 20 years old..but on the other hand my ancient, antique, excellent 1/2 inch drive Williams Superslim is 40yrs plus old....cost me a couple of weeks wages " new " all them years ago too...

PS...always unwind them after use when they go to sleep for a while...but you guy's know that !

EDIT...The little one with spot on results which come from ebay...reciept says...R+C Components in Hull....the plastic case label says TOOLZONE " SS173 " Not a known good make ! The wrench has a GS label on it, which is the same as my middle weight cheapo Lidl one, that has a Powerfix label'd case...another cheapy but still very good results...it only has lb/ft and inch/lb on the setting range...NOT Nm....and i was wrong on price...it cost £17.99p incl post...Like a said earlier...has absolutely excellent calibration results and will be good for just about everything on a bike...from M5 bolt to...even the rear axle nut
 
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