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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have noticed recently a loud clicking noise from what I think is the driveline, I can feel it through the foot pegs as well, particularly at lower speeds, sub 20mph, I've checked the chain and can't see any
obvious tight spots, but have noticed the front sprocket has a lot of movement on the splines up and
down the shaft. Is there suppose to be a spring washer or something behind the front sprocket?
It doesn't change if the clutch is pulled in or what gear/revs it's at.
Bike is fairly new to me so not sure how long it's been doing it but can't always feel it.

Advice please chaps
 

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Are the teeth on the front sprocket worn
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, theres is a little bit of wear on the teeth but not excessive, I would say the sprockets have probably 5 - 10,000 left on them. Not sure without removing the chain how to check it but watching it turn over the front sprocket slowly there's no obvious tightening or jumping, no play in the rear wheel or swing arm, back sprockets good.
Just thought could it be cush drive?
 

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Check the chain adjustment, maybe too slack or too tight. It says how slack it should be in the bike manual on sidestand. Possibly 35mm. Also check chain for kinks or hardspots.
Oil level on engine ok ?
 

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Just a thought, but have you a Scotoiler or equivalent fitted? If so, is the delivery tube/quill catching on the chain, or a sprocket nut?
Or is one of the varous breather pipes contacting the chain or tyres? Is the chainguard touching the chain?
 

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Best to get the chain off so that you can get a good look at everything, then you can examine the shaft for play and check the splines. Also the chain under load will react differently on the sprocket than just being rolled round on the stand, and have you had plenty of lube on it.

Think its best to keep the chain play near to the maximum setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers for replies so far -

Adjustment is spot on and in the middle of the adjusters so should have a good bit of life left. There is a scottoiler fitted but the discharge tube isn't getting nipped in the sprocket. Taking the chain off will mean splitting it as theres no split link (as far as I could see) can you put a split link in these chains? (used to trials bikes so slightly different).
I did try running it with the bike up on stands last week and couldn't see any thing on the chain or feel/hear anything - should the front sprocket slide up and down the shaft? i.e. in and out from the engine? theres probably 6 - 8mm of play? there isn't any wear on the shaft that I could see.

The guy I bought it off mentioned something about a washer or something that goes behind the sprocket but I can't see anything in the haines manual about it???
 

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When I said get the chain off, I should have made it clearer what I meant ---- get the chain and sprocket off the shaft so you can examine the shaft and also have a good look at the sprocket teeth, no need to split the chain.

Don't think anybody would recommend using a split link especially when you consider how the sprocket can float about on the Honda, I think most manufacturers stopped using split links when the BHP got up around fifty. But on the Honda I think its more to do with the floating sprocket/alignment thing.

By the way I don't know how many miles your bike has done, but depending how you ride and look after the chain around 30,000 miles is possible, mine is still original and in the middle of the green adjustment.
 

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By the way I don't know how many miles your bike has done, but depending how you ride and look after the chain around 30,000 miles is possible, mine is still original and in the middle of the green adjustment.
Mine's still in the green zone at 32000+ miles, for which I thank the Scotoiler! But I took the front sprocket cover off the other day and saw that the sprocket teeth were beginning to "hook". So I'm going to change C&S very shortly (With Genuine Parts, I think, as the originals seem to have lasted very well).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·




Still can't see anything had it running up on stands and looks fine, going to take the chain and front sprocket of and go right over all of it
 

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That front sprocket looks a bit hooked to me ( or is it just the camera angle?)
The chain won't run so smoothly around a badly-worn sprocket.
Have you cleaned it thoroughly for the photos, or are the chain/sptrockets dry?
The 650 "genuine" sprockets have a rubber face ( and I assume the 700's the same) so yours seems to be an aftermarket item - may not fit the shaft (or indeed the chain) as wellas the original, and may have different wear characteristics.
 

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Yepp front sprocket looks worn and too little oil, you should have a gentle satin grey on the rollers, and see oil on the o-rings of the chain. normally front sprocket will have much more "oil" on it. Gears say click, click, crunch when you move that lever up and down :clown: ... you know..:toothy10:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In my defence, my last bike was shaft drive and this has a Scott oiler (but think it's not working) my
Next plan was check the chain fully then oil it etc and see what it feels like.
 

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In my defence, my last bike was shaft drive and this has a Scott oiler (but think it's not working)
You're probably right that it's not working ....... when I took my sprocket cover off it was half-full of oily, greasy gunge, and the same was also all over the sprocket, chain etc. So I knew where all the Scottoiler oil was going :p.,
 

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Sounds like it might be the splines on the output shaft. Wears on the gearbox side and lets the sprocket rock. Which then wears the retaining clip slot wear. Double bugger!!

Sent from my GT-I8160 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Are you able to rock the front sprocket when the wheel is off the ground once in gear without rotation of the shaft ?
i would have changed both sprocket and retainer+bolts (genuine Honda form DavidSilver spares) and chain and aft sprocket DID set (sunstar) (ebay or Wemoto or similar), hen get the oiler to work or use sticky spray lube. On outboard engines there is a special lube for the splines on the propeller shaft, you need to consider lubing the spline too. Use locking agent on the bolts for the retainer.

Here are some youtube clips that might be of interest, read the comments below them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5xwgr8-Xbg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5Ykx-ciBk8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOmgCRr12wQ
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Now genuine Honda sprocket and a bit of oil on the chain has solved the problem it would appear. Now
Not wanting to appear thick or anything but..... The info on chain tightness is less than clear in the hand book or Haines manual so..... 40mm on the side stand - surely that can't be 40mm up and 40mm down but 20mm up and 20mm down on the bottom as it were?
Might as well try to do everything right, got to say that only 10nm on the sprocket bolts doesn't feel
Tight enough to me but that's what the book says.
 

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Now genuine Honda sprocket and a bit of oil on the chain has solved the problem it would appear. Now
Not wanting to appear thick or anything but..... The info on chain tightness is less than clear in the hand book or Haines manual so..... 40mm on the side stand - surely that can't be 40mm up and 40mm down but 20mm up and 20mm down on the bottom as it were?
Might as well try to do everything right, got to say that only 10nm on the sprocket bolts doesn't feel
Tight enough to me but that's what the book says.

That's right it means 40mm total movement, I always leave mine near the max. of 45mm on my 650. Without looking it up 10nm (7.37 foot pounds) doesn't sound a lot but is probably fine, but then again I tend to go by feel anyway.

Its usually best to renew chain and sprockets together.
 
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