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547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[i]Transalp Aussie Style

A mate of mine just built up a great TA, here it is[/i]

It wasn’t originally part of the plan (is it ever...) but upon arrival of the kit, I decided to strip the bike down for a complete re-spray. So, apart she came:

Above: Bare chassis @ about 126,000 km. (Note: take plenty of photos of the wiring, cable & hose orientation during disassembly!).

To remove the compliance plate rivets, I centre popped the heads & (carefully...) drilled off them off. The plate may have some glue behind it, so (again, carefully) using a thin knife I removed the plate. I sourced some originally sized zinc dichromate rivets from work (I work for a Caterpillar dealer). You will need 2 x 095-7419 Rivets, though you may want to get a few extras – the little buggers can bend when you try to install them. Oh yeah, & I put a thin film of silastic under the plate.

Above: The Caterpillar 095-7419 rivets. I’m pretty sure there’s a Caterpillar dealer in most parts of the world!

Light Bracket.

Above: Install the Light & Fairing bracket. Be prepared to remove & install this several times during the installation process.

Fairing Installation.

I won’t cover every little step of the installation process, because you’ll get instructions with the kit. Aside to that, Jim R. has already edited the original Boano instructions.[/COLOR]

Above: Install the upper & lower fairing mount adapters to the tank. I would recommend replacing the rubber mounting grommets in the tank at this time.

Above: Drill the front, centre 6mm hole through the indentation molded into the front. Support behind the panel to help produce a cleaner cut for the hole. High drill speed & low feed rate produce the best holes. All holes need to be cleaned up with a razor & pointy nose pliers (or similar...).

Above: Install the fairing using the front M6 in-hex button head bolt (supplied). I think I had to shorten this bolt, as it was bottoming in the rubber mount. Adjust the front rubber mount until you achieve the best possible alignment with the fuel tank.

Above: I used 2” masking tape to mark out the edges requiring trimming. This is necessary to get even lines & prevent the fairing rubbing on the tank. I used a jigsaw with fine tooth blade (suits aluminium, I think?).

Above: I tried for several hours to reduce this gap with little improvement. The fault is in the molding I assume? This was disappointing, considering the cost of the fairing kit.

Headlight Protector (Optional):

Above: I drew up this template & had one made by a local plastics supplier for about $25.00 Australian. It is made from 3mm Lexan type plastic & fits quite well.

Above: Mark the centre’s & drill (remember to support the rear of the fairing..) the holes. I used a preformed plastic stand-off (about 4-5mm long) on each hole, along with stainless 3mm button head bolts, washers & nyloc nuts.

Instrument Holder & Mounting Bracket.[

I had some problems with the Boano instructions for this part. (I queried this last year, & Jim advised he had similar problems). Ideally I found a helper was necessary for this part, as you need the Instrument Holder & Mounting Bracket both held in place at the same time so that all the holes can be marked out.

Above: Bolt the Instrument Holder to the ‘T’ Bracket (red arrows). Note the blue arrows denote areas where a significant amount of the Instrument Holder (panel) needs to be trimmed away to fit up inside the main fairing. This step involved a lot of trial & error.

Above: Note the red arrows. The instructions from Boano require you to bolt the main fairing to the Instrument Holder. As the photo indicates, it is not possible as the panels do not align. This is the same on both the LHS & RHS.

Lower Fairing Mounts (Optional).
This is not part of the instructions from Boano. After not being able to secure the Main Fairing to the Instrument Holder, I decided to modify the lower fairing bracket (OEM type) to accept some soft compound rubber mounts with stainless steel thread inserts.


Above: Cut off the original locating lugs (red arrow) on both sides of the lower fairing bracket. Dress up the faces to a flat filed finish.

Above: These are the rubber mounts. As shown above, they are mounted in a horizontal position.

Above: Refit the fairing & mark out the nominal location on the inside of the fairing. Note: the mounts will not be ‘square’ to the filed surface on the lower fairing bracket. This isn’t a problem, as the ‘L’ lugs that will connect this all up can be bent & manipulated to provide a nice fit. Drill the holes into the main fairing & firmly attach the rubber mounts. I made the brackets out of 3mm x 20mm mild steel flat bar. Bend & drill them to fit. I marked out the ‘L’ brackets orientation on the lower fairing bracket. Next I removed the lower fairing bracket from the bike & welded the ‘L’ brackets to it.

Above: Refit the lower fairing bracket & check that everything bolts up ok. Once this was ok, I removed the bracket; bead blasted, primed & painted it.

Above: Rubber mount attached. I used M6 stainless steel button head bolts. The mounts are approximately 25mm diameter & 20mm long. This wasn’t designed to carry any weight, but rather stop the fairing vibrating & give it a little more rigidity. I purchased them from a supplies chain in Australia called Blackwood’s. These particular mounts are made in Queensland, Australia.

Radiator & Engine Guards.
Both plastic radiator guards & frontal engine guard require trimming to fit with the new fairing

Above: Trimmed RHS Radiator Guard. Mark off the excess & cut away with a Stanley knife. It may take a couple of goes to get a neat finish. This applies for both the LHS & RHS.

Above: The frontal engine guard also needs trimming to fit within the new fairing. Again, it took a couple of attempts to get this correct. Make sure you allow some length in the shield so it is held in place behind the new fairing.

Wiring Rework Procedure Part 1 (Optional).
I’ve broken this into two parts because there is a bit to cover. This part primarily covers the lights & wiring connection between the bike chassis & the new light assembly.

The Boano Lamp Gp comes fitted with 35/35W globes. That was a bit on the dull side for around here, especially with wayward kangaroos & wallabies, etc. So I spoke to Jarno Boano about the lights ability to handle higher output globes (say 60/55W in each lamp). He advised that this would be fine. I was already running a 100/80W globe in the standard TransAlp light, although I used a pair of 30A relays for the Low & High beam switching. This means only a minimal amount of current goes through the LHS switch block as the primary signal to activate the relays.

The only difference with the Boano is that the relays needed twin ‘87’ pins to run a low & high beam to each light. This also meant making a completely new harness. The other consideration was that I wanted to make this set up easy to remove. So I ditched the original connectors & started fresh. Read on

Above: Layout as follows –

Red Arrows – Low Beam relay & mounting hole (bolted from underneath);
Orange Arrows – High Beam relay & mounting hole (bolted from underneath)
Green Arrows – LHS & RHS blinker connectors (replaced with fully sealed 2 pin deutsch connectors from Caterpillar)
Blue Arrow – Electronic Narva Flasher unit (P/#: 68249BL). Fitted previously;
Pink Arrow – 4 pin Deutsch connector for the heater handgrip power supply (ignition) & earthing;
Purple Arrow – 8 pin Deutsch connector for the lighting. Supplies both Primary (signal from switch block) & secondary (30A lines from battery) power & earth leads.
It may be a little hard to follow the wires, as I heat shrunk the wiring everywhere possible.

Above: Another shot (sorry it’s a little fuzzy). In the foreground is the heated grip switch & wiring.

Above: Mark out the desired position of the front blinkers & drill required holes. I trimmed & heat shrunk the wiring after fitting with the corresponding 2 pin Deutsch connectors.

Wiring Rework Procedure Part 2 (Optional)
If you can get a longer speedo cable, then this part is optional. But if you already have long forks on your bike, then this part will probably be necessary. Unless you can find a speedo cable longer than that on the XR600R!

Above: The original instrument cluster wiring plugs. The little, black, rubber sealed, bullet connector is the tachometer wire. The larger white connector has the rest of the OEM wires.

Above: I cut off the original OEM plugs as shown earlier, & replaced them with this 12 pin Deutsch connector. I needed the extra wiring slots for the Koso RX2 unit I was fitting. The connector & mounting clip are sourced from Caterpillar. Note: The Koso needs both Ignition & Battery positive power supplies.

Above: The Koso fitted up! Note the red arrow is the heated grip switch. The blue arrow is the stainless steel button head bolt holding the clip for the 12 pin deutsch connector underneath

Above: The speedo wiring, underside of Instrument Holder panel. The red arrow is the secondary temp probe that came with the Koso speedo instrument group. I screwed this back into the panel as an ambient temp sensor. The temperature probe pops through the panel behind the instrument group. The blue arrow is the wiring harness to the speedo. The green arrows are ‘P’ clamps to secure the wiring. They are attached to the mounting bolts for the speedo Gp.

Above: The speedo magnetic signal pick up. The red arrows are for the magnetic pick up sensor & mounting bracket. The blue arrow is pointing to 1 (of 6) little magnets that sit neatly in the disc rotor bolts.

XR600R Speedo Drive Blanking Plug.
After fitting the Koso unit, I was left with an exposed speedo drive unit on the front wheel. So, I got one of these made at a local engineering company

Above: Originally I requested it be made from black nylon, but it was getting too hot on the lathe & deforming. So they used aluminium instead.

Above: Finished blanking plug. Note I used 1 x Caterpillar 3J-1907 o-ring to seal this up. The original speedo cable retaining bolt will hold this in place.

Radiator Overhaul (Optional)
Since running the larger 650 TransAlp engine, the 600 series cooling system was working considerably harder to reject the heat from the bigger engine. By this, I mean the thermo fan was cycling in & out more frequently in slow moving traffic. Closer inspection of the radiators (@ 126,000 kms) revealed that a reasonable amount of fins were bent over & there was some significant external blockage.

Above: I bead blasted the radiators at work, before handing over to a company that overhauls these suckers! They cleaned the exterior blockages; flushed internally; straightened 99% of the bent fins & shod some fresh black paint on them. I replaced the mounts (2 x missing in the pic); replaced the electrical connector with a 2 pin deutsch unit & heat shrunk the wiring; & replaced the temperature sender / switch unit at the bottom of the RHS unit.

Above: I ordered the original part number, but it updated to this newer version (P/#: 38860-MT2-003). Upon removing the old sender, I noticed that there was a ‘scaly’ build up on the copper probe (red arrow). I suspect this may have been insulating the probe, though I never tested this theory. The new sender is somewhat different in shape.

Body Work Final Fit Up (& Paint !):Something that bothered me during the initial fit up was how the fairing mounting bolts pull up against the body work. They don’t pull up ‘square’. So I made some tapered washers to prevent edge loading on the paintwork

Above: White 16mm (5/8”) Diameter Acetal plastic rod. The Acetal White is more ‘brilliant’ & is better suited to machining applications. First I drilled a 6mm centre bore into the length of rod using a drill press. I then purchased a timber / plastic / aluminium cutting wheel (careful, a little expen$ive...) for my steel drop saw. I played around with cut angles & found I need the following:
3 x 15 degree cut;
1 x 7.5 degree cut; &
2 x flat cut (optional, for the lower mounts used earlier).
Dress the suckers up by scraping a sharp knife blade across the edge (careful …).

And here it is:

Yep, I couldn’t help but stick with the original theme. Albeit, slightly updated! Just a few quick points:]

The paint is the original Pearl White;The stripes could not be made in decal format, so they are painted;
The front guard is an Acerbis supermoto Clear coat has been applied over the top of the decals

After a few short jaunts around town, the wind protection is ok. At nearly 6 ft (180 cm), I’m thinking I may need to add a little Touratech type extender to the top? I have a couple of rides coming up, so some extended mileage may give me a better idea whether or not this is necessary. The front of the bike feels marginally lighter at urban speeds. With the bigger globes in & the headlight beam dialed in – there is quite a good amount of light for night transports.

The cost of the kit will depend on your exchange rate (about A$1350.00 shipped @ Oct 2009). I went for the Koso RX2 from Boano ex-Italy (about A$450.00 shipped @ Nov 2009). Complete bodywork prep, paint, decals & clear was approximately A$800.00. Miscellaneous electrical, mounting, hardware A$250.00. Note painting the frame, etc was additional. I also spent another A$300.00 on tools for this project

Still waiting on the new front wheel with silver alloy rim to match the 2003 rear disc wheel
Exhaust tip extension
Prolink decals for the swing arm;
Custom saddle rack;
Revalve front suspension
Rear fuel tank?

Hill Rider
3,111 Posts
:thumbleft: SWEET :thumbup:

I've always said the alp needed more road presence, and that baby has buckets loads of it - terrific job.

Now, the 650 donk you slipped into that frame - was it a standard engine from a 650 Alp or did you play with the internals of a 600cc unit?

If it's a 650 TA unit, what mods did you need to do to the frame & wiring to get that baby to run?

Finally, when can I arrange shipping to get my machine over to you for fettling? :rolleyes: :D

As always, a splendid report on a fantastic job - thanks for sharing.

Steve T


4,456 Posts
Beautiful stuff, makes the TA look very good indeed. Just needs that stepped custom seat made into a nice flat off road style and it would be perfect, but then thats just my view:D

12,768 Posts
That is definitely a great Mod. it makes the bike look right modern.

2,600 Posts
Great report on a great looking bike. Got to be one of the best looking Transalps I've ever seen!
Using the original colour scheme was a touch of brilliance in my eyes. It looks like what Honda should have done with it's Transalp :thumbup:

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's some other bits of his work, he is an artist !!!

I'll just link em as doesnt recognise a lot of the formatting from Adv & its a pain to sort out

The bike has XR600 forks & here is some more info on his rear suspension setup suspension set up

rear shock Part 1

Show us your TransAlp modifications! - Page 471 - ADVrider

rear shock Part 2

ADVrider - View Single Post - Show us your TransAlp modifications!

03 TA rear disc on 88 TA

ADVrider - View Single Post - Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Fitting 03 650 engine to 88 600

ADVrider - View Single Post - Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Cant stop 'tinkering'
1,818 Posts
lovely lookin bike and a great write up :thumbright:

4,162 Posts
Hi greg.. a good bike ruined..

will take it off your hands:cool:

nice.... same high milage engine?

252 Posts
Great write and nice bike :thumbright:

3,086 Posts
Greg, could you ask your mate if he had to use the old wire round the spark plug for the RPM gauge or if he could use the original TA leads.

Cheers!! :D
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