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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Took the train down to Hastings, a nice lady let me into the basement garage after convincing I'm not a thief, insured and rode back!

Wow! Much taller position than I'm used to but an easy ride! Love it.

Bought the front sprocket which arrived today; planning to fit that on. First thing is to give it a bloody good clean.
 

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Took the train down to Hastings, a nice lady let me into the basement garage after convincing I'm not a thief, insured and rode back!

Wow! Much taller position than I'm used to but an easy ride! Love it.

Bought the front sprocket which arrived today; planning to fit that on. First thing is to give it a bloody good clean.
Enjoy
It's always worth fitting chain and sprockets as a set.

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
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I bought the front sprocket off ebay you linked - is it easy to do?

Also what purpose does it serve to the one already there?

Managed to fit the seat back on properly!
 

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It’s not hard to fit once you’ve got the chain slack enough to get old one out n new sprocket in. I replaced both sprockets and chain at same time so had to remove back wheel anyway. You really need to get back wheel off the floor. Looks like you’ve got a main stand fitted so won’t need a paddock stand.
Then once you’ve got the gear lever off it should be plain sailing. Just 2 bolts
 

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"Witchcraft ! Must be or Aliens did it ! I’ve never seen a shaft that good.
But seriously, it shows it’s right to run the chain at correct tension 😁"

Not witchcraft, I've owned it from new and had prev his experience with road bike mechanics not leaving the chain with enough slack. I've felt the bike lined of tighten up on big bumps and heard a funny noise set the same time after tyre changes etc and on inspection found the chain too tight at the next stop, usually my place, where I've immediately reset it to the correct setting.
That's the only thing I know that works. If your MOT requires a tighter chain tension (wtf!?!) set it prior to inspection, reset it loose for shaft protection immediately after.
 

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"I bought the front sprocket off ebay you linked - is it easy to do?

Also what purpose does it serve to the one already there?"

1: As others have mentioned, yes it is easy, but you should replace the lot as a set because old chains chew new sprockets away quickly, and old sprockets do the same to new chains because they already have a wear pattern in them. Chains are a harder change than front sprockets, though still not beyond a back yarder like me with the right tools.

2: The replacement is meant to spread the contact area of the sprocket on the shaft across a greater area, to prevent the erosion of the shaft caused by an over tight chain pulling the "floating" sprocket sideways against the shaft when the suspension compresses and pulls the chain tight. If the shaft isn't worn then you don't need a "super sprox" mod, but most are because idiot mechanics and previous owners haven't set the chains correctly on those bikes.
If on the other hand you've bought a genuine Honda front sprocket, the difference is almost zero as the pic of my bike's shaft will show. Chain slack is the saviour of healthy counter shafts not special sprockets, which are for prolonging the life chewed up shafts.
 

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i've owned 600 & 650 transalps for over 20 years and i have never had any front sprocket issues, because i always ensure the chain is not too tight. i have started buying genuine Honda front sprockets lately too.
 

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Yes if the shaft is healthy to start with and you look after it and check after shops have done tyre changes etc (and adjust as required) you'll never have front sprocket issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Me again...

Any wisdom on derusting?

I've used up what little ACF-50 I had on it. Buying another can tomorrow, just want to give it a coating avoiding the BDiscs.

Am I wasting my time with ACF for derust? Better options around? I've seen some products floating around to apply, but would like your thoughts?
 

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And when the primer sets give it a coat of enamel or acrylic to coat to seal it. Primers and undercoats tend to be absorbent and in many cases will absorb water as easily as a new coat of paint. Although the zinc based ones may be water resistant you're better off to give it a coat that seals.
 
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