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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a new XL600V in 1997 but my job changed and I had to store it almost immediately.

I didn't know I was storing it for that long - I thought just a few months - so I didn't do anything special to it when stored except put it in a cool, dry garage under a dust cloth.

I've just got it back again and am desperate to get it on the road - but what do I have to do to get it back? It's done 680 miles and is in showroom condition.

btw - hello, great to find this place!
 

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Welcome to the forum.
When you put it into storage, did it have any fuel in the carbs and tank?
If it did then they will need to be cleaned and new fuel used, The battery may need replacing too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When you put it into storage, did it have any fuel in the carbs and tank?
If it did then they will need to be cleaned and new fuel used, The battery may need replacing too.
I'm afraid I just got off the bike, covered it up and didn't see it again for 10 years....

I'm testing the battery now, looks cream-crackered. I've ordered a the Haynes Service and repair manual and I'm anticipating having to replace oil and clean out tank (doesn't look rusty) and carbs.

Just wondering how other things like oil seals in forks etc will have faired.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jeez how do people do it!!!!
I know, I know. It's disgraceful and I'm embarrassed..........

I have a friend who's a doctor - when I told him he looked at me sideways and said "Do you know what Doctors call motorcyclists? Donors"

I'd better organise a refresher course I suppose.
 

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Farkin' aye ! :confused: :rolleyes: :) :D




(There is a fair bit you should do before running it,but I'm in shock right now.No doubt some one will put you right in the coming hours :thumbup:)
 

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My course of action on this would be;
Drain fuel tank and put in fresh fuel.
Presuming the fuel was switched off when parked up, leave carb's alone for now.
Drain engine oil, change oil filter and refill with fresh oil. ( yes, its supposed to be hot to drain under normal condition's)
Check coolant level.
Fit new battery.
Fit new spark plug's. ( just one on each cylinder you can reach easily for now.)
Turn fuel on, choke on and fire it up. (might take a bit of cranking).

Once its running, get it nice and hot and change oil and filter again, change coolant, change brake fluid front and rear.

If the carb's only had a float bowl of fuel evaperate there should'nt be much gummy coating in there.

Regarding seal's etc, just see how it goes.

Good luck. :thumbleft:

Oh, . . . and welcome to the forum. :thumbright:
 

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Hill Rider
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Give up on it now and sell it to me as a project :rolleyes: :thumbup:
Only kidding (wishing really) :D

Everything Airwolf said, plus maybe take a good long look at the tyres - even after 13 years of no use, I'd say they would need retiring (pun intended) and fresh rubber fitted - once you've got the bike running!

PLEASE let us see the beast once you've got time to take some pictures :thumbright:

Steve T

:cool:
 

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Fill the tank and add some REDEX it should smoke you back to your senses, it may help clear all the gum from the long stand.
 

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To that extensive lists above, I would add:

  • Grease the axles
  • Have a look at the brakes: check smooth ppiston action.
  • CLOSELY inspect the brake hose: flex it this way and that to see if the rubber is splitting
  • Grease the throttle cable and check smooth operation
  • Ideally check that the grease has not evaporated on the head races, but that is a pain.
  • Climb on and bounce the front forks for smoothness, and then sit up and down for the rear
  • Generally keep a close eye for any powdery residues that suggest perished rubbers.
  • Open the air-box and check your filter is not a mouse's nest
Should not be a complicated fix, but may take a little while and don't expect it to fire up on the first crank (although it might!!)
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
What do we think about break fluid - replace? Or will it be ok?

Tyres seem in good nick and are keeping their pressure, but they haven't been put under any stress yet.

I think I'll remove the spark plugs (replace?), put a squirt of oil into the cylinders, put her in gear and turn the engine over with the rear wheel (why don't bikes have kick-starts any more) just in case there's any rust in there.
 

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At £3.50 a bottle, I'd replace the brake fluid: not worth the risk not to.

Once bled and clean fluid is flowing from the bleed nipples, nip them up, and bungee the brake lever so that it is under pressure, and hang a tub of paint off the brake pedal.

Leave over night.

Next morning, check for fluid seepage from the calipers: you'll know if the pistons seals are still good.

Spark plugs: Sure, replace them. Spark plugs can be responsible for hard to trace running problems. If you have any, at least you'll know it's not from the plugs.

Take the plugs out, squirt a bit of oil, jiggle the gearbox into top gear and crank the engine over using the rear wheel (check direction of rotation!!). If anything is seized, you'll get more warning without using an electric starter to strain the seized components.

Also: forgot to add:
GREASE THE CHAIN!!

It may seem like a lot, but you have also got 13 years of saved money not spent on fuel, services and bike tyres, so you're still quids in!!
 

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Tangle


I saw this thread yesterday and have been in shock since then, so it's taken me a while to reply!

First off, you have one of the country's, and XRV favourite suppliers just up the road from you WEMOTO in Portslade, so everything you'll need is there, minutes away!

Next, I'll pretty much reflect what others have said.

Drain fuel, slosh out tank with fresh fuel before filling again
Change oil & filter
Change coolant
Change brake fluid
New battery
Consider changing tyres

Your idea about removing the plugs and putting a bit of WD40 down the bores and turning over by hand is a good one. REMEMBER these bikes have 2 cylinders but 4 spark plugs, two of which are difficult to get out.

Personally, I think you find the bike is knackered and probably only good as scrap. I am very happy to offer you a couple of quid to take it off your hands :rolleyes:

Actually, I'm just along the coast in Seaford, so if you get stuck with anything, I'll be happy to pop over and ogle at your antique.


Good Luck




Bob :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
First off, you have one of the country's, and XRV favourite suppliers just up the road from you WEMOTO in Portslade, so everything you'll need is there, minutes away!
Thanks for that, I'll pop over and buy my bits.

Personally, I think you find the bike is knackered and probably only good as scrap. I am very happy to offer you a couple of quid to take it off your hands :rolleyes:
Yep, your probably right, I'll give it a quick go and if it doesn't work, I'll just tip it - I wouldn't dream of abusing your kindness by taking you up on your selfless offer ;-)


Just read my owners handbook and found that the oil filter needs a special tool plus torque wrench to replace - it that really true? I can get my hands on a torque wrench - is there a workaround for the tool?
 

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Hill Rider
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Personally, I think you find the bike is knackered and probably only good as scrap. I am very happy to offer you a couple of quid to take it off your hands :rolleyes:

Bob :thumbup:
Oooyyy!

Get in the queue, behind me :rolleyes: :D
 

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Sounds like some good advice there. I'd regard this as a great opportunity, personally! I have dreams now and then where I find an old vehicle I've owned in a shed or garage, having forgotten about it. I always wake up to reality feeling sad the dream was just a dream. You're living the dream - no need to feel concerned about anything, as whatever you need to do will be nothing compared to what you would have had to do over 13 years of use!

I have to admit I'd definitely be tempted to fit new tyres and tubes. I just replaced a 20-year old tyre and a car, which otherwise looked fine (not perishing and plenty of tread - it was the spare) but caused terrible handling on the road, and might well have come apart at speed. See what you think when it's rolling.

The petrol tap on a 600 TA is a vacuum feed type - no fuel when the engine is not running and causing suction. I may be wrong, but assuming the tap still works as it should, would this not mean that the fuel that was left in the float bowls is all that will have entered the carbs over this time? I swear by Silkolene FST for cleaning carbs without stripping, by the way.
 

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...Yep, your probably right, I'll give it a quick go and if it doesn't work, I'll just tip it - I wouldn't dream of abusing your kindness by taking you up on your selfless offer ;-)


Just read my owners handbook and found that the oil filter needs a special tool plus torque wrench to replace - it that really true? I can get my hands on a torque wrench - is there a workaround for the tool?

Think nothing of it, I was only thinking about your interests, HONEST (I'm a doctor, would I lie to you!!??!!) :sign5:


The trouble with the oil filter is it's in an awkward place and usually covered in oil and chainlube (yours obviously won't be!). It's hard to get a filter cup on, so I would recommend one of these oil filter straps. LIDL were doing them a week or so ago for a couple of quid, but Halfords do them as well (by Sykes Pickavant). In my opinion these are perfect for the Honda engine, and make getting it undone and done up easy. I don't bother with a torque wrench, I just tightenen it up a sensible amount, i.e the same as the one that came off!!





Bob :thumbup:
 

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I'd say that fresh tyres were a must. They harden with time, so you'd be risking binning a great and rare bike.

Let's have some pics!

BB
 
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