Honda XRV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Riding Monday and the speedo needle starts vibrating....then about 10 miles later starts jumping....then about 5 miles later lays down and dies.....CRAP. I know what this is. The dreaded Transalp speedo drive gear failure. Drive ring ordered that afternoon from the friendly local dealer. The problem is, I replaced the drive gear about 5000 miles ago. Why the quick failure??

Today, for a nice rainy day project, I took the speedo drive off the wheel and pulled it off the drive cable. I tried to clean out all the old grease and all the chewed up nylon gear teeth. The more I cleaned the more came out. I finally resorted to aerosol brake cleaner and compressed air and even more crap came out. After about 30 minutes of this I realized that by the time I got everything inside clean, there would be absolutely NO lube left in there and even then I wouldn't be certain all the rubbish was gone.

The best way to clean this thing is to remove the worm gear. But how to do it? I tried pulling on the little drive tab with a pair of needle-nose pliers but no go. I figured that during assembly, the gear was just pressed in and the only way it was gonna come out was to be "presuaded" from the front.

I drilled a small 5/32 hole into the housing where the front of the worm gear rotates. Do this carefully. You only want to penetrate the aluminium housing.


Then found a small drift and began to lightly tap on the end. With a few heavier taps (I'm NOT talking lumberjack swings with the ball-peen here) the gear began to move. I had to support the end on a socket to allow the drive end to come out of the housing.


These are the parts you will find inside:


Disassemble this carefully. The spacers are very thin and the grease will make them adhere to the housing and the worm gear shaft. If you get too happy with parts cleaner and compressed air you'll spend 15 minutes chasing the spacers around your shop floor....guess how I know this.

Now you can clean ALL the old lube and broken teeth out of the housing.

Relube with white lithium grease (other web sites state that other greases "attack" the nylon. While this sounds a bit suspect to me, after this I wasn't gonna dispute it). Install the new drive gear. Here it is with part number. This is the USA part number. You blokes may have one a bit different.
.

To reassemble, place the worm gear back inside the case and slide the shiny metal bushing down on top the shaft. The part with the protruding boss goes toward the gear. Tap the bushing down. I used a 10mm deep socket (notice how I use my sockets for everything except removing bolts). The bushing will seat and you'll have about 2mm back and forth play in the worm gear. This is what I started with. I thought I could reduce it some but some pretty serious taps would not move the bushing any closer and I called it good.

The rubber seal can be pushed down on top the bushing by hand using the socket.

Clean and lube the speedo drive cable, Dab a bit of Silicon sealer onto the front of the drive housing to seal up the hole you drilled, reinstall the front wheel and ride off with a functioning speedo....YAY

I considered screwing a grease fitting into the front for future lubing but there didn't seem to be enough metal there to support one. You could always peel off the silicone and pump in some grease through the hole.

Ray Stedronsky
Davis, CA

Hello All, (15 February 2008)

I have some experience and maybe another "fix" for this post.

After just over 10,000 miles the speedo drive gear failed again.

I repeated the above procedure. After reading the other threads I was careful to remove all the debris that I could see onto a clean white cloth. I didn't find any "foreign bodies" and can't really see how bits of road gravel would get past the seals.

My new theory is that the metal in front of the cylindrical steel worm gear is wearing and causing the gear to shift toward the front. As the wheel rotates, it forces the steel gear forward (and also upward so this might be the real problem).

This time, before disassembly, I had about 3 mm of forward/backward movement in the steel gear....so something is wearing. To combat this wear I added a small 2mm thick nylon washer just in front of the small metal washer.

I cleaned, regreased and reassembled. The free play in the shaft was signficantly reduced (to a point that is was just perceptible).

It's difficult to know exactly what is causing this. It may be that the steel gear has just worn away at the housing enough to make the holes egg-shaped and allow it to be forced upward to the point that is does not engage the nylon gear well enough. I have new drive housing on order and will try to see if there is any difference here.

Apologies for lack of photos this time, the Pacific Ocean ate my digicam last summer and I haven't replaced it yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Wow Ray, that information would have been very useful a couple of weekends ago when I attempted to sort out my speedo! In the end I gave up trying to work out how to get the the white nylon cog out so I just cleaned it out the best I could and then repacked with grease. It works for now but I'll do a proper job next time!
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Slim,

The white nylon gear just slides up out of the assembly. No lock rings or anything else.

Over time, it tends to wear into the worm gear. With the grease in there it sometimes take a bit to get it out. I used an old dental pick. I've found these useful for al variety of jobs. Next time you get your teeth cleaned ask the dental hygenist for any old/worn/broken picks they have. Ususally then have a few lying about. It makes a useful "how am I going to get into there" kind of tool.
 

·
Still comfortably numb
Joined
·
435 Posts
Ray you have the patience of a saint :shock: You sure seem to enjoy a challenge!

WHEN mine goes I reckon I'll just wang one of these onto the bike....


If I prepare carefully I could just about be bothered to fix the magnetic bolt onto the brake rotor. :oops:
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm not entirely sure about what the actual cause of the damage is. My first assumption was that because of the shape of the drive unit I was unable to clean and lube it adequately the first time.

I'm assuming that there was still a substantial amount of old grease and broken gear teeth floating around in there (and there was) and the new gear was damaged by that.

I lubed the speedo cable on reassembly both times.

If it happens again, the cable will be replaced and then I guess I'll have to look at the clock itself so see if it needs lubing or replacement.

I'll add to the post as reality reveals itself. You guys should add what you know and maybe we can get to the answer sooner.

I should add that I'm driving an Africa Twin clock from a 1990 from Germany thats calibrated in Km. Maybe it's the use of a metric clock that's upsetting my American drive???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Hi lasses and lands, good to be back. Nothing to worry about, I've been away from the site just because I was a bit of busy and if I have to choose between riding and typing... ;)
Anyway I had two drive gears disintegrating less than 3000 miles apart so I did a bit of investigation on my own. Broken teeth and grease were to be ruled out because I took the utmost care in eliminating them the first time around. I do not use grease or oil as specified by Honda.
To cut a long story short I found two minute stone chippings in the speedo drive assembly: they were more than enough to jam the metal screw and disintegrate the drive gear.
I've no idea where they come from, must be normal tear and wear allowing dirt into the housing.
I've cleaned yet again the whole assemply, installed the new drive gear and put a smear of vaseline to seal eveything.
Fingers crossed it would appear to work...
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The stripped gear teeth is rather an "all or nothing" affair. It won't fail and then begin to work again.

If you're hearing rattling, I'd check the cable connection at the clock....it's probably loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Mine gave up the ghost at about 20k miles - I think they just need cleaning and relubing every 10-15k miles as a matter of course.

I must redo mine....:(

Rich
 
H

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
This thread is great - it guided me through repairing my 02 650.
I couldn't remove the spiral drive however and managed to clean it with a dental plaque remover.
The part number was different from Rays photo.
Thanks again to Ray for his original post as I gather this is a regular Transalp weak point - one of the few :)
H
 

·
Womble
Joined
·
180 Posts
Ray,

Great guide. A couple of points you made don't seem to have been answered so here goes.

Relube with white lithium grease (other web sites state that other greases "attack" the nylon. While this sounds a bit suspect to me, after this I wasn't gonna dispute it).
Sadly that's true, standard mineral based grease/oil can be absorbed into the nylon parts and cause them to swell making the problem worse not better.


can't really see how bits of road gravel would get past the seals
Debris borne in water can force it's way past the seals unless they're held tight. Experience has taught me that sadly. When its raining really hard and the road is dirty you'll see salt/sugar grain sized debris stuck to the forks/fairing etc. That has gotten into places like the speedo drive on other bikes I've had and caused much mayhem.


cylindrical steel worm gear is wearing and causing the gear to shift toward the front.
Very likely as steel is much harder than the aluminium casing. The rotating steel shaft would wear the ali casing over time and probably start the disintegration of the nylon rotor. Your idea of a loose fitting nylon washer/bush that fits over the end of the steel shaft would help especially if it was well lubed.

Next time you get your teeth cleaned ask the dental hygenist for any old/worn/broken picks they have.
These can often be found [in the UK] at market stalls and auto jumbles etc. I picked up a set of 7 or 8 different shaped picks for £5 a while ago and have added to them when I find useful shaped ones I don't have. Useful for cleaning brake callipers too as long as you don't scratch anything with them. Those little mirrors are worth having too.
 

·
SENSAI
Joined
·
91 Posts
my sppeo has just up and died.i replaced the cable and its still...up and dead so i guess this is the next step.thanks for putting such a detailed account up for us mere mortals to work off
:thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
my sppeo has just up and died.i replaced the cable and its still...up and dead so i guess this is the next step.thanks for putting such a detailed account up for us mere mortals to work off
:thumbright:
Have you checked the mechanism at the wheel end? Mine died and it was a replacement of the component circa £25 from DS (total guess) to strip it down is tricky straight replacement so much easier.

I will still have the receipt if you want me to check the price :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
Whats the VAPOR speedo like and where can you get it.

Joni
here
Home - Trail Tech Products Limited
I have one fitted to the XLV 750R I put it on there as it also has a temperature sensor ( for air cooled bikes its attached to a copper washer that you replace the spark plug washer with.. )that way I could keep an eye on the temperature of the back pot
you also get a tach and warning lights you can program :)


thanks Ray .. very timely as mine has gone on the alp. I though it was the cable, so bought a new one.. but it looks like the drive.. will replace both that way I know that all is well ( hopefully )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,162 Posts
Have you checked the mechanism at the wheel end? Mine died and it was a replacement of the component circa £25 from DS (total guess) to strip it down is tricky straight replacement so much easier.

I will still have the receipt if you want me to check the price :thumbup:
Hi alba..

where did you get yours from?

was up early this morning as I had to Drive to Glasgow for a meeting, came back over the Cairn-o-Mount.. great evening clear & bright and roads dry and the colours are turning on the trees and the Rowan trees are full of bright red berrys and I was in the CAR.....:confused:
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top