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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all, my mother tongue is not English, so please feel free (by PM) to help me to remove all the errors I have done in the following explanation.

As I did not find information about the Race Tech Emulators and the NX650, I took the hard way: I purchased a set of them and got my hands dirty...

In this Tutorial I will try to explain how to install the Race Tech Emulators

RT Emulators "emulate" the performance of shimmed suspensions in a "ported" suspension. You can find information about the emulators here or here.

The NX650 reference is the same as the old Transalp:

41mm cartridge emulator Item# PFEGV4101

Once finished, I can tell you that the process is not so difficult but an extra pair of hands is welcome.

I will skip the "easy" steps of the process as I understand that one that wants to mess with a suspension fork is able to remove the front wheel and mud guard and the words "torque" and "oil weight" are familiar... Otherwise stay away!


Let's get started

The first thing to do is "clear" the work zone so we can remove the fork bottles. So let's get rid of:
- brake caliper
- front wheel (we are working on the fork, remember ;-) )
- mud guard and its support.

Now we can proceed removing the fork bars.

- loosen the 4 upper tee bolts (only loose them)
- loosen the upper fork caps (only loose them)
- loosen the 4 lower tee bolts (only loose them)
- pull the bars towards the floor untill you have them in your hands

Now your dommie should be like this

Now lets deep in the hard stuff; disassembling the fork

Now our hands (and probably the floor) start getting dirty....

- loosen the allen nut that is located on the lower part of the bottle (only loose it!)
- set the fork in vertical position
- remove the upper fork cap

Now oil will become your nightmare. Get plenty of paper, gloves and a pan (or a 5 liter bottle) to put the oil you are removing from the fork,

- remove the preload tube
- remove the big washer
- now remove the coil ( watch out the oil I told you!)
- pour the oil in the pan
- pump the fork to force all the oil get out of the fork

once it is clean of oil:

- remove the allen nut and its washer ( do not lose it )

now if you turn the fork upside down you will get the compression tube and a small coil

The disassembling phase is over. Those are the pieces:

Now, the hard part. Drill six 8mm holes in the compression tube. Follow the instructions that came with the Emulators to see where the holes must be done.

Whe did the holes using a mill. Also you can use a standard drill.

Once the holes are done, use a file to remove all the burrs. This is very important, otherwise all the burrs will mix with the oil and can destroy your fork

Emulator will sit like this in your fork:

Now all these part should be assembled so we can ride our bike

- drop the short spring in the lower bottle
- drop the compression tube that you drilled with style
- screw the allen bolt and its washer (firmly, do not overtorque)
- drop the emulator in the lower bottle ( the colored coil should be facing up )

Now fill the lower fork bottle with suspension oil. I used SAE15. To do it, compress the fork and pour the oil up to 130mm of the top. Pump the fork so oil can reach all the lower bottle. check again the 130mm.

Now you can extend the fork and:

- drop the long spring
- the washer
- the preload tube

The preload tube should be aligned with the upper tube edge. If not, then the Emulator is not squared inside the fork. Rock the long coil until the Emulator sits flat.

Now you can close the upper cup and the fork is ready to be installed.

Repeat the steps with the second fork bottle.

When both fork tubes are ready, then reverse the steps to install the forks in the tees again

Well done!

And the final touch... Do not forget this step. If skipped, your emulators will not work!


I tested the fork and the performance has been increased. Now, when braking, the forks keep upper the before. Also offroad it has been improved.

As you may (or not) know, the emulators can be fine tuned to adapt them to your bike and your riding style. The Emulator's spring can be preloaded by tightening/loosening the allen bolt. Loose it to get a plusher ride or tight it to get a firmer ride. Also an extra spring (blue), can be used to replace the stock one.

I think in the dommie the Emulators spring preload can be loosened un turn to soften even more the ride. I will try it and I will let you know.

Thank you for reading it!:toothy7:

1,964 Posts
Very usefull thread. Thankyou.

23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
After some time testing it, i changed the yellow coil to the blue one (softer) with no preload... now is much sweet but not still as sweet it should be IMO.
I will do some nylon spacers to reduce the main coil preload and we will see ...

33 Posts
hay burnout, great write up. :D

1. have you settled your suspension yet?
2. how much did the emulators cost?

23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi redun

The Emulators were purchased at US, and it's cost was $156 (or 125€) plus some xtra cash for customs guys....

regarding the settings, I did the spacers. They are two pieces of 35mm diameter tube, 25 mm long. Now the front end is much softer, but I think a softer main spring is needed also... but I will not spend more money on that. It is indedd clearly better that stock.

Now I have to dial the rear end Ohlins to match....
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