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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rear brake pads on my TA have worn unevenly, and I mean very unevenly. The piston side is nearly worn out, the sliding side is barely worn at all. Pads have done an awful lot miles getting on for 50,000 (the first set did over 50K and still had meat on them when repalced with this set). I have noticed before and stripped and greased up pins and it all slides nicely but nothing seems to make a difference. The only thing I can think is that I have unwittingly got the pad spring in wrongly or something else is preventing the caliper sliding and the pad engaging with the disk properly, although after compressing the piston back in I can see the caliper sliding as the pedal is pumped so it seems to be all working OK.

I am about the replace the pads and would like to fit properly and fix this once and for all. Note, the brake feels like it is working fine and will lock up the wheel with a heavy foot, but there is pulsing feeling under a light load which I can imagine is consistent with one pad pressing on the disk. I am baffled.
 

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but there is pulsing feeling under a light load which I can imagine is consistent with one pad pressing on the disk. I am baffled.[/QUOTE]

Had no problems with my callipers to date so I will let someone else answer the main part, Re. the pulse -- the only time Iv'e ever felt that is when a disc is warped and that might account for the fact you can lock the back wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
but there is pulsing feeling under a light load which I can imagine is consistent with one pad pressing on the disk. I am baffled.
Had no problems with my callipers to date so I will let someone else answer the main part, Re. the pulse -- the only time Iv'e ever felt that is when a disc is warped and that might account for the fact you can lock the back wheel.[/QUOTE] [/QUOTE]


nope, the disk isnt warped.
 

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Sorry I carn't be more help -- trouble is in 18,000 miles Iv'e had no reason to do anything except service it!
Once had a CB750 with a swinging front calliper the brake was binding ever so slightly turned out the square section piston seal had gone paralelalgram shape new seal job done.

Re. warped discs --- just a few thou. showing on a dial indicater and you will feel a pulse.

Anyway best of luck fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's dark out at the moment and I've not light in the shed, but I'll check on my pad spring orientation for you tomorrow. Caliper off as I've just put the swingarm back in.
Thanks Tony, a close up photo of the pad spring would be helpful too:thumbright:. As you know, the srping has various tabs and tangs and one of mine has a small tab bent in a way that looks like it might be stopping the caliper move once the pad is touching the disk, although I would have thought the forces involved would easily reshape the thin spring.
 

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I can't see that there is that much of a problem Austin if you are getting 50k from a set of pads - you have answered the main thing & that's the fact that the caliper slides freely (have you tried it without pads fitted?).

I don't have a picture but if you look at the pad spring one side has a small folded over lug - this lug keeps the static pad in place ie not the pad that the piston pushes.

Phil
 

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I can't see that there is that much of a problem Austin if you are getting 50k from a set of pads - you have answered the main thing & that's the fact that the caliper slides freely (have you tried it without pads fitted?).
Phil
Oo take care if doing that. Without the pads fitted you may well pop the piston right out.
 

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Reality check on who you buy your pads from, right there. My EBC rear pads lasted 4.5k :eek: (had to fit them as needed for MOT and DS wouldn't deliver fast enough)

Expect a bit of mismatch (piston side worn more than non-piston side), but as long as the calliper slides freely on the pins there's no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I can't see that there is that much of a problem Austin if you are getting 50k from a set of pads - you have answered the main thing & that's the fact that the caliper slides freely (have you tried it without pads fitted?).

I don't have a picture but if you look at the pad spring one side has a small folded over lug - this lug keeps the static pad in place ie not the pad that the piston pushes.

Phil
Yup, not overly bothered really as the brake works and lasts well. Pads are Honda's.

Small folded over lug, that helps orient the pad spring, and should be confirmed by Lutin's photo's. I will be fitting the pads tonight - front and rear. Then it's 2 tyres on Thursday and an MOT at the weekend fingers crossed.. Mileage will be 99,900 ish for the MOT or shall I wait until it goes round the clock?


Sent from my iPhone with a smile :)
 

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Oo take care if doing that. Without the pads fitted you may well pop the piston right out.
The piston shouldn't pop out - remove the pads along with any coppaslip bolt the caliper up as usual then slide it side to side to ensure it is all free. Just make sure you refit the pads before riding off!
Or you could just slide the 2 sliding bushes by hand with the caliper removed :)

Phil

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
 

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Hi Austin
I know I use mine on the trails a lot so far more rear braking..I get max 6k from rears on std honda ones and never noticed uneven wear ..and my bikes done 45k now..

can you slightly rattle the caliper on its mount as in " loose" no stuck pads etc..to me it sounds like the push/pull effort isnt working right..

with pads out..put some wood between piston and disc and press peddle slowly to see if the other side is sliding across freely as it should..

these back brakes really are basic so not much can go wrong and I`ve yet to get a jammed rear..front yes back no..

best of luck..

the rear spring/slide plate should only go on one way as the pads just drop ontop of the plate..but you know that most likely..
 

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I may have missed it, but how do you know that your disc is not slightly warped? I went through a set of pads on the rear in a couple hundred miles as the disc was warped (but it was obvious when spinning the wheel so was well warped).
 

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Could it be that the piston isn't retracting properly, so there's still a bit of pressure on the piston side pad against the disc?
 

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Some photos as promised. Here's the pad spring in the caliper -

View attachment 17900


In closer detail there are two lips that prevent the "rear" pad from sliding forwards, marked with the red arrows -

View attachment 17901

This actually makes sense, as the rear pad does not slide and the longer "lands" on the spring near the caliper allow the other pad to slide as wear is taken up.

And just for the record, my pads are wearing unevenly as well -

View attachment 17902

The one with most wear is the "front" pad, ie that borne on by the piston.

So, I don't think that your bike is doing anything untoward Austin. It would appear to be a case of "they all do that, Sir". Either that or mine suffers the same problem as yours.


And yes, I will clean up the caliper properly before putting it back. ;)



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