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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

Start by removing the tank and everything else that's in the way. Clean it, you don't want sand and other stuff in the engine :thumb:
And yes, the engine needs to be completely cool before you start this.

Specifications (RD07)


Intake valves: 0.13 to 0.17mm
Exhaust valves: 0.18 to 0.22mm

Don't have the torque values, may hand is my torque wrench :cool:


Remove the caps.


Remove the crankshaft end cap and the timing inspection cap.
Start with the rear cylinder, rotate the engine anti-clockwise until the RT mark lines up. (You can unscrew the spark plugs to make it easier to rotate the engine if you want)



Make sure that the cylinder is at the Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by checking for some movement in the rocker arms and valve (= grab it with your fingers and move it up and down).
No movement = exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine 360° to change it to compression stroke. Then insert a feeler gauge of the correct thickness and check that it is "a firm sliding fit".
To adjust: Slacken the locknut and turn the adjusting screw, then tighten the locknut (make sure the adjusting screw don't rotate). Re-check clearence. Then turn it 720° (two full turns) and check the clearance again.



It's the same procedure for the front cylinder. But instead of rotating to the RT mark, rotate it to the FT mark. It's a bit more tricky because of all the crap in the way. You can/should displace the right hand radiator to get better access.


Check the o-rings before you put everything back.


Carburettor synchronisation

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is extremely flammabel as Haynes would say.:sign5:

You need something to check the sync with, either buy one or make one yourself. All you need is some clear tube, piece of brake line and some sort of oil.

Before you sync, you need to let it run to reach normal operating temperature. And set the correct idle speed (1200rpm +/-100rpm).


Here's my DIY. Filled with 2-stroke oil.


Made nipples/adapters out of 2 pieces of brake line. Used a threading tool? (don't know the english word for it) M5 threads.


Use something to restrict the flow. The Swedish king helped me out :thumbright:


Attach the nipple here, and the other one to the other side.



The bike need fuel to run, so make some sort of temporary tank. Or use extended pipes from the tank.


Something like this will help you turn the adjusting screw.


Connect the tubes and make sure it's a good fit. Air leaks will result i false readings. Start the engine. If it flutters to much, tighten the restrictor.If the oil starts to rush towards one cylinder, turn it off or you will have a lot of smoke ;).
If the reading is the same on both cylinders, you're done. If there is a difference you need to adjust.
To adjust: Turn the synchronising screw, it's in the throttle linkage between the carburettors. Accessed from below. Don't press hard on the screw or you will get a false reading. (Don't have a pic of it).
When they are in sync, snap the throttle once and check it again.


When you are done, put everyting back where it was from the start. :angel7:
And if something went wrong along the way, don't blame it on me.

(If you see something wrong with the guide, let me know. With the steps or with the writing/language).
 

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FANTASTIC post ATrider. Thanks very much for this and for the clear photos.
Was thinking of giving it a go but didn't think the Haynes described things well enough. Now I'm planning to give it a shot using your guide.

Gaz
 

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Slight difference on the Transalp is the carbs sync screw is accessed from the top through the convenient hole in the air box.
It needs an extremely long flat headed screwdriver or 7 mm socket to reach it.
 

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Very nice, that's good thinking. Does anyone know what the haynes manual says about default configuration of the carburettors?? I mean you got to have a starting point. What are the presets of the screws on the carburettor when you haven't run on them yet?
Or which adjusting screws how many turns open.

Is it the same on rd07 as on rd04??
 

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Ya is a gd info that i learnt from here.The specfication wat i saw from here is for RD07.Is all this info n spec can be produce the same to RD07A to do the valve clearance.Intake values:0.13 to 0.17mm.exhaust values 0.18 to 0.22mm.Cause i need to do valve clearance for my RD07A.Last but not least wat is the mileage need to do the valve clearance.
 

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Question regarding cars synchronization...

Restrictor should totally close oil flow or not? Or it should just slow down the flow of oil?
 

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Thanks for this great explanation, ATrider! A nut like me needs clear talk like that, with big sharp images!

Is it the same setup and values for an RD07A?

As soon as I locate a feeler gauge, I'll give it a try!

All the best!

/Thomas
 

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Very nice, that's good thinking. Does anyone know what the haynes manual says about default configuration of the carburettors?? I mean you got to have a starting point. What are the presets of the screws on the carburettor when you haven't run on them yet?
Or which adjusting screws how many turns open.

Is it the same on rd07 as on rd04??
Hi,

I know this question has been asked some time ago, but maybe still usefull to others.

I synched the carbs on my RD03 yesterday for the first time after a complete carb strip and rebuild (overhaul).

1) Fully turn in the air/fuel mixture screws (1 on the side of each carb). Do this genlty as to not damage it or the seal.

2) Turn this screw out the specified number of turns (2 and 1/8 on the RD03)

3) Let the bike come to normal running temperature and set the idle to as close as 1200 rpm as possible.

4) Try to get the idle as stable as possible by turning in/out both air mixture screws by half a turn.

5) Now that you have a stable idle, start synchronising as discribed above. AFAIK the RD04 (RD03 and transalp) all have the same carb and air filter layout, meaning you can reach the carbs using a long screwdriver.

6) It is possible you'll need to adjust the idle again, but you'll only need to do this using the main screw. Air/fuel mixture normalle could be left as they were set.

Cheers
 

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This is an excellent thread. I am happy with electrics, fine with paint, ok with frame and suspension but engine and particularly fueling is a black art.
Thanks.
 

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Just did my valves and carbs on the rd04! Some points I found-

The access plug to turn the engine was seized which was annoying. I took the small plug out to see the timing marks and used the back wheel to spin the engine. Gearbox in 5th and spark plugs out.
Setting the valves, from my experience in building landrover and Maserati engines I always set my valves hot. I set them by sound and movement rather than feeler gauge (then check them after setting). I have always found this more reliable in getting the right setting for the valves.
Carbs were easy to set! I found taking the air box off made it easier to set them properly.

Thanks for the tips at the start of this thread. Made it much easier to know what to look for!
 

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Setting the valves, from my experience in building landrover and Maserati engines I always set my valves hot. I set them by sound and movement rather than feeler gauge (then check them after setting). I have always found this more reliable in getting the right setting for the valves.
It staggers me that people are prepared to totally ignore the manufacturers recommendations when doing any servicing. I'm quite sure that the Honda Corporation are more than qualified to define what the valve clearances should be and how to set them. They did design the engine in the first place, after all.

Same goes for setting the chain tension - and that really is opening a can of worms. ;)



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Thanks for your reply. I will be sure to take note and relish every word.

I was merely adding my thanks for the original post, and adding my experiences to the thread. Wasn't expecting to be slagged off, so thanks for that.
 

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It staggers me that people are prepared to totally ignore the manufacturers recommendations when doing any servicing. I'm quite sure that the Honda Corporation are more than qualified to define what the valve clearances should be and how to set them. They did design the engine in the first place, after all.
:thumbright: It´s two of us.

Cheers
Chris
 

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thank's! i am at my second AT following this tutorial!
i found something else that might help . the radiator can be put like this to make space. it has to be unscrewed, and gently pulled back
 
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