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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

This is my first time on the forum, so please be gentle with me!

About a year ago I bought a XL1000 Varadero V1 and I have fallen in love with it. Being a sports bike rider for years, I thought I would tidy it up and sell it on!

In between tidying and polishing, I started reserching various tuning & modifications that would suit me and my riding style from various XL1000 forums all over the web.

However, lots where vauge in their findings, leaving me to patch/cross reference missing info up with similar posts on different sites.

I am constantly hunting for parts for my Dero, and have recently won an Africanqueens sump guard (Ebay) from a member on this site I think?

The job I am currently fettling with is the fueling of the VTR carbs I fitted about 6 months ago.

The reason for this post is. if anyone is even considering this mod, I hope I can be of some assistance in iron out the truth from the fiction.

I have typed up instructions on the mod as I was carrying it out and if any one is intrested I will post here.

Looking forward to exchanging stories and ideas.

Regards Firedero.
 

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2 bikes = twice as happy
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Hi mate, I was after that sumpguard but forgot about it and didn't up my opening bid. Anyway if you dont fit the sumpguard or if you ever want to get rid of it give me first option on it.

Oh mines an FI model so can't do anything with the carbs question.


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- Sent from my iPhone with a smile :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Austin,

Sorry but I fitted it. It looks a bit um! different/odd, too much aluminium man.

I also had to chop the Givi crash bars lower lugs off as there was no way of using them. Hopefully I won't be needing them anytime soon........ I may regret that last sentence.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are my findings and hope it might help someone out there who wants a change.




Honda Firestorm carburettors on a Varadero XL1000.
This modification has been written about in various forums; this is my experience.
This is a step by step guide to replacing the XL carbs with the VTR ones.
All the mods I have done are reversible. Nothing on the XL is cut or botched.
If you change your mind and want to put the old carbs back on, no harm done!!
Required VTR items are: - Carbs, inlet rubbers, air box including trumpets.
The P.A.I.R. valve is removed and pipes capped in this mod because the VTR was never fitted with the system!
  1. Firstly remove the fairing, seat, mid fairing sections (under the seat) and tank.
  2. Then remove the air box lid, air filter, trumpets and air box, making note of the pipe work underneath.
  3. Remove the throttle cables, unclip the idle adjustment cable and unscrew the choke cables (don’t damage those needles), unclip the throttle positioning sensor and slacken the carb jubilee clips.
  4. Making sure you have clean cloths to hand tug/pull the carbs from the engine. As soon as possible block off the engine inlet holes, in case a clip or anything falls in!! There is going to be a fair bit of fiddling over them holes.
  5. Remove the carb petrol pipe work and breather pipes (take a photo so that you will remember what is what later!)
  6. Remove the two water pipes under the carb bodies (it may drip, but no water will spurt out) and temporarily plug with suitable fitting Allen keys.
  7. Let the transplant commence!
  8. The fuel pipes on the VTR do not run the same as the XL, so you will have to enlarge the existing small breather holes (one each plate) in the centre of the carb mounting plates (copying the route of the XL fuel pipes so you can re use them). I chain drilled with a 4mm drill around the existing centre breather hole and filed to a large (smooth) round hole (so the fuel pipe fits loosely as not to kink the pipe!).
  9. The small VTR vacuum pipes from the rear carb will have to be changed/swapped if you want to feed a Scottoiler! The vacuum pipe on the front carb will have to be changed/swapped as there is no need for the PAIR valve vacuum feed. These pipes will be a tight fit between the carb mounting plates and the carbs, but they will be ok if you make sure that there are no kinks (blow through them to check).
  10. On the VTR carbs the throttle positioning sensor electrical plug is round and on the XL it is rectangular. After checking the wiring, the three pins are the same size and orientation! (clip on the outside) It’s just the plug that is a different shape. So I removed the sensor from the VTR carbs (to work on) and filed the sides of the round plug until the rectangular XL plug fitted over nice and tight. (Take your time).
  11. Fitting!
  12. Make sure the carbs are spotless inside and out and the VTR inlet rubbers are inline (They have notches on them) and screwed tight onto the carbs (look at the XL ones).
  13. . The settings I have used for the pilot jets are 2 turns out on the front, 2 ¼ turns out on the rear. I also removed the washers from under the carb needles.
  14. Fit the fuel pipes and small breather pipes firstly (one at a time) making sure they are all in place tidily (its very very tight). Then the two water pipes, then the choke cables. Place the carbs over the inlets to check nothing gets kinked or snagged when they finally go in place.
  15. Triple check everything is in order! Then remove the rags from the inlet, lube (carb cleaner) the engine inlet collars for the VTR inlet rubbers to slide over and push down until home. Fasten the jubilee clips tight and place rags in the carb inlets
  16. The PAIR valve! I used plastic plugs and the existing clips to blank the fore and aft PAIR air pipes, and cable tied them to the frame out of the way.
  17. Fit the throttle cables swap the (XL) idle screw and clip in place, fit the throttle sensor plug.
  18. Fit the VTR air box and trumpets taller one at the rear.
  19. The snorkel inlet hole on the VTR is much larger than the XL. But the angle is different, making it unusable in standard form. I cut a cake like V portion from the VTR bend (you need the end as it has a slight trumpet), tidied up both cut ends with a craft knife (Patience) and super glued them together making it straighter than standard and similar in angle to the original XL snorkel. Once the lid is on the untrained eye wouldn’t notice a thing!
  20. Refit the tank, fairing and seat.
  21. It took a fair bit of prodding to start it (Oh my god what have I done, head in hands moment), as the choke setting was different and the idle screw was way off. But now it starts first time every time. Just as it used to!
  22. The performance is now…….Just like a Vtwin should be. Awesome.
Sorry for banging on but its my best effort......
I will post my findings soon as to the mpg and performance
Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ramair Filter mod.

I just thought that some of you might find this tip useful as a K&N or Pipercross hover around the £50-£70 mark.
I have done this modification to quite a few of my own and friends bikes and all are happy with the results and price.
  1. The next mod is my own Pipercross type air filter. I purchased a sheet of some Ramair filter foam for £5 off EBay and some E6000 glue (again from EBay) this glue will not harm the foam! Motocross guys swear by it.
  2. Firstly you need an original (dirty) air filter and cut away the entire paper element. Cut your foam to the required shape with a scissors (Patience needed). Make sure you have it fitting snug with no gaps or buckles (too tight). Remove foam and run the glue about 3-4mm thick/wide around the frame were the foam filter will sit/Touch. Position the foam in place for an air tight seal.
  3. Full strength of the seal is 72 hours.
Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi,

Yes I have noticed benefits. But you might not!
I feel that these mods will not be done by many, if any!
I also feel that a lot of bikers will of purchased the Varadero as a cosy touring machine, not as a headbanger's bike.
Neither am I trying to turn it into one.

After all it is a VTR engine, albeit with slight compression and cam differences for more low down torque (or to try and remedy its thirst for unleaded?). Because its a tourer now!
The above thread was typed about 6 months ago whilst doing the conversion and I have run it for about 1500 miles since.
Performance wise it has made a massive difference. I felt that at 5000rpm the engine lost its acceleration/urgency! it was reving for reving sake (if you catch my drift).
So I started reading the VTR forums and it seems most were happy with the performance side only the mpg was criticised.

On fitting the carbs the only mod I did was remove the little washer from under the needle's, the jets are standard VTR that being 175 front 178 rear(Mikuni).
The bike does about 140 miles from full to light on but the plugs are dark brown/black (Rich).
I have recently purchased/fitted a Dynojet kit (I hate'em) so I can sort the mixture out.
I fitted the recommended jets for the VTR with open pipes which are dj180 front dj185 rear.
I have since come accross a cross reference for Keihin - Dynojets - Mikuni. (If anyone is intrested I can post it on here).
It seems the Dynojet sizes (180-185) recommended are very close to the standard Varadero Mikuni sizes(168-170).
With the Dynojet fitted it feels exactly the same as a standard un modified bike, it runs out of puff at 5000rpm.
I suppose there is no need to give it the bigger mains of the VTR because it cannot supply the air required through the standard carbs!

So at the moment I am forced to strip it down and try slightly bigger mains......
I will let you know what is what (if your intrested) as soon as I know.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hi,

This was my last play with the gearing before the Dynojet turned up so I am unsure of the mpg saving here, but am sure it would be a good one.

Another top tip for Better mpg for the Varadero is that a CBR 600 FX-FY 42 tooth Rear sprocket will fit, same carrier pcd and 525 pitch. The VTR runs the wider 530 setup and will not fit.

This Mod was done on my bike after the Carb swap so there was no lack of grunt to turn it.
You do have a taller first (you will do 5-6 mph'ish in first at tickover standard) 42 tooth rear = (you will get around 10-12 mph or there abouts)
But at cruising speed (80-90) in top (5th) revs drop to around 5000-5300! That makes for a drop of 1000rpm and it really feels at home and less buzzy!

As you may of gathered, I do not live in the city and hardly get cought up in traffic so the taller gear may not suit city commuting!

I am not sure if a standard carb'd Varadero will be able to pull this off due to the taller gearing.
Weather you have a 5 or 6 speed box the final drive is the same 0.961-1. It's the rear sprocket that gives you the higher ratio like the VTR.
The Varadero will not pull the high speed that the VTR can because it's not designed to rev that high, but it does feel at home on the new gearing.

Hope it's of some help, Regards.
 

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Good day - this is my first posting ever on any forum - so please be gentle with me too

I need a bit of general advice and since you must know 1000 times more about carbs than me I have to ask you? I own a 1999 Varadero with standard carbs. I ride to places that are high above sea level and the bike would not run properly at about 3100+ meters above sea level. I took it to a shop and they changed settings on the carbs only saying afterwards that it will now run better at very high altitude. I have since lost inteerst in talking to this shop relating to other jobs done for me. I have not tested the high above sea level running since any way. It started backfiring slightly after that episode but not too heavy. It also stopped pulling strongly at 6000+ rpm like it used to and in my view the consumption got worse but the tractability at low revs became better with cleaner pick up from about 1500 rpm albeit slow response. I recently replaced the needles (from David Silver) and the o-ring gaskets on the carbs. It now backfires like a cannon on the sudden throttle closure and pulls no better. The dripping of fuel from some pipe sticking out the bottom of the sump has however stopped at cold idle.

I use (for some time now) a facet fuel pump which is cheap but will never stop working like the OEM one. I think it inherently pumps at greater pressure than the standard item which could be a part of the problem?

Some people say I need to go back to the OEM pump and some say that is not the problem. I think it merely is over fuelling due to settings but I am obviously not the expert. Where should I start in your opinion?

Thanks

Teefs
 

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cool information cheers for posting...
 

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Thanks for the info Firedero. I took my carbs off, at the weekend, to give 'em a clean out as I'm getting excessive fuel consumption at the moment. The Haynes manual says you have to drain the coolant!! What a load of tosh. As you point out, you don't need to. Hardly any coolant comes out.

I did have one of those 'why did I start this' moments when I took out of the diaphragms in the carb tops. I think the rubber had swollen slightly so it wouldn't sit in the groove when I tried to get them back together. Three attempts, no luck. Bugger!! I even had a look on t'internet for new diaphragms. Gulp. £119!!! What you need is Blue Hylomar non-setting gasket sealant. Keeps everything in place while you put the top on. Works a treat. Another tip is to put some of the wide Duck tape over the inlets as soon as you get the carbs off. When you take it off just clean up any glue residue with some WD40.

One of the fiddliest jobs is to get the chokes screwed back in. It's such a fine thread. It was the same with my Transalp. Damn you Honda. :cussing:

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update on the jetting! with over 12 months of use.



The jetting I have been running with for over 12 months is Dynojet Mains, 190 Front 195 Rear (largest in the set).
With the RamAir filter mod mentioned earlier in the thread fitted, the mixture was too lean with the 180/185 mains recommended by Dynojet.
I tried the 185 front and 190 rear but still it gave poor acceleration from 5000rpm and above. I finally settled with the 190/195 setup which feels very good on hard acceleration to the red line.
I was very reluctant to fit the larger mains thinking it would drink fuel, but this has not been the case.
The fueling has been determined with many 100 mile runs then a plug chops/hack sawing the thread section off the plug to see the colour of the mixture band on bottom of the ceramic just where it joins the steel body.
You can't see the colour band with iridium plugs due to the inner machining of the plug.

Iridium plugs used, cheapest are from (aceparts_uk) on EBay from Gurnsey @ £12.56 per pair delivered for std Varadero or std VTR.


I am using the hotter VTR plugs (DPR9EIX-9 ) not the standard ( DPR8EIX-9) Iridium plugs.

At the moment I am getting around 40 MPG. Which I think is quite acceptable.

On an average blat around Snowdonia with a few friends, a RST MilleR, TL1000r and a Triumph 675 we are all within a couple of quid difference when it comes to filling up the tank.

I have been thinking about leaning the midrange via dropping the needle one slot but am happy for now, but I think I will wait for the warmer weather to return.

Regards,

Firedero XXX.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Varadero 16/1/2012
Varadero XL1000 v1,Renegade open race pipes with Ramair foam filter running VTR carburettors.
Current setup Dynojet 190 front 195 rear mains.
Dynojet fuel needle 4th groove from top with washer under clip.
All went for a ride with full tanks, unsure of the miles covered but all covered the same miles.
Triumph 675 :- £13.20
RSV Mille R :-£14.70
My Varadero :-£15.50
Not that bad
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Nice day (Friday 13th!!!), decided to have a play with the carbs.
Changed needle clip to 3rd groove from top (lower the needle) to try and get more MPG in the middle of the cruising rev range.
Bad move.
Bad surging around the 2500rpm - 4500rpm. right around the main cruising speed of 50 mph to 80mph in top
Not so bad if was on a trial run but I did it before a 200 mile run with my mates. Big school boy error.
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Got home annoyed and freezing.The following day was nice too, but cold so stripped the bike down again.
Had a good think and if only one groove made that much difference I thought it might have been running lean all the time in the midrange area!
Stripped the carbs down and decided to take a chance, I placed the clip in groove 5 and rebuilt them again.
Been for a small 15 mile ride and notice a significant increase in mid range torque, effortless when overtaking.Should of tried this sooner..........
Live and learn.​

Will update on the fuel economy. Crossed fingers.




Regards Firedero XXX.​
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hi, About 9 months ago I came upon this thread on an American Superhawk/VTR 1000 forum, written by a member called 8541Hawk.

I followed the various mods with the help of another / later set of VTR carbs & trumpets (later VTR models came with #48 pilot jets as std).

I found this info quite intresting & maybe you might too.

I have tried many setups and will be posting the outcome of them all soon.

Many thanks to Mr 8541Hawk for documenting & sharing his findings.

Here is the original post ( http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/carb-set-up-24769/ ) with Q&A's galore.


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8541Hawk


As I've been asked a couple of time and with all the issues I've heard about with carb set up I guess it's time to pass on what I have learned in the last 14yrs of owning a SH (yes I picked mine up in 97)

Note: The following set up works with a stock airbox and stock air filter. If you want to run a aftermarket filter or airbox mods, you are pretty much on your own trying to get it dialed in correctly.


I have arrived at this set up by taking the info I have received from Dan Kyle, Bob Hayashida and HRC. Then by a little experimentation and looking at how HRC did things, I have come up with what I feel is a very good base line set up. As with all tuning, this is just a starting point and you will need to fine tune for your bike.

First lets cover a couple of things. First is the old axiom that the bigger the CV carb, the harder it is to tune. As this bike has the largest CV carbs factory installed, it is no wonder you hear about all the problems getting them "right". I've read many posts where people state that "the bike runs great, except at..... insert low end, mid-range, etc here.
To me this is unacceptable.

Then there is how the aftermarket jet kits (except HRC) deal with the stock set up. They address the low end /mid-range lean condition by running larger mains and a different needle profile and in the case of DynoJet by getting the slides to open sooner & quicker. While these methods work well with most bikes, on a SH there is IMHO a better way.

The HRC kit comes at things a bit differently. Though it is really for a full race set up and if you want to run ram air or a real high flow filter, then their method of plugging the air bleeds and running small jets is the way to go. On a street set up, this really isn't all that good of an idea. I'll just leave it at that for now. It can be discussed later but really doesn't have a lot to do with what this is trying to accomplish.

The main thing a street rider can get from the HRC set up is a modification they have done on the slides and their recommendation to run #48 pilots. The slide mod is useful to widen the power band on a bike with stock velocity stack. It also can be used for racing where the set up is 2 short stacks. This same method is what is needled with stacks like the Dr. Honda units which go rich in the mid-range. Though I am getting ahead of myself, so I'll explain the mod and what it does in a bit.

So back to the stock set up or starting point. The problem with a stock bike is it is a bit lean on the bottom and mid-range and pretty close on the top end by what I have seen. The good part is the stock needles actually are very good. In fact they are some of the best stock needles I have ever seen. Which leave us with how to get the best performance from the bike.

So here we go. The first step is to install a set of #48 pilot jets (per Dan Kyle & HRC). You will here people say they have tried this and it didn't work. The reason for this is that they have done it along with installing a jet kit. As I stated earlier, aftermarket kits install larger mains and different needles. When you change both, you end up too rich with a stock motor. It's a one or the other with this bike. By upping the pilots you cure the low end leanness and also add a little to the top end as the pilot circuit doesn't turn off, so larger mains are not required.

Then you need to shim up the needles. While they have a very good profile, they are a little too long for performance. The question here is how much do you shim them. Around .040" is a good starting point but will need to be tuned to each bike. Also there is more to it than just shimming both needles .040". One of the set up tips from HRC is to use one more shim on the rear needle than you use on the front (this tip might be helpful to try on bikes with an aftermarket kit also). So what I do when setting up a set of carbs is remove the stock thin washer that is under the front needle and leave it in place on the rear. With this method you actually end up with the front needle approx. .030" higher than stock and the rear .040" higher than stock which seems to work well.

So You can stop at this point, put it all back together and start with the pilot screw set at 2 1\4 turns in the front and 2 1\2 turns rear as a start and the bike will work pretty good but it can be better.

This is where the HRC slide mod comes into play. What is this "secret" mod? Well it really is quite simple. We'll start with this hijacked pick once again

slide.jpg

The 2 holes are called lift holes. It's where the slide gets the pressure differential signal which causes the slide to open. That is why DynoJet has you drill an extra hole, to cause the slide to open sooner, but that is the wrong way to go IMHO.

Because of the different length velocity stacks what is really going on with the bike is the front cylinder slide opens too quickly causing the front cylinder to go rich in the low to mid-range. FactoryPro even recommended running an emulsion tube from the rear in the front to help cure this problem.

Now the HRC cure for this is to supply a slide with one lift hole. This will lean out the low & mid while not effecting the upper mid-range and top end. So the last step would be to use some epoxy and seal one of the lift holes in the front slide.

This will give you a very good baseline set up. Yes some tuning will be required but all it involves is adjusting the washer stack ( you might need to raise or lower the needles a small amount) and set the pilot jets per the service manual.

The HRC type slide is also the cure for the Dr. Honda stacks which cause the over rich mid-range. The problem here is the stacks create too good of a vacuum signal to the slides causing them to open to quickly. So in this case you would plug one hole in each slide. This will eliminate the rich condition without causing a lean condition on the top end.

Hope this is some help to you guys.

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Regards, Firedero. xxx.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)


Right then, updates on the final tuning of the VTR carbs.

As you know, I fitted a Dynojet to the VTR carbs & to be honest, I was not too happy with the outcome. Ideal for the ability to adjust the main jets & needle height, allowing you to hunt for what you want out of the bike, be it economy or performance. There was something missing though because when I first fitted the carbs, they were set to the factory settings and the bike was very impressive but too thirsty. I tried all sorts of adjustments to regain the original VTR performance but with better economy,clip up, clip down, mains smaller, mains larger etc... But in the end I resigned myself to the removal of the Dynojet kit & prepared myself to go down the 8541Hawk tuning road.

After reading what 8541Hawk had done, I purchased another set of VTR carbs (later models have the required #48 pilot jet as STD).
Then followed the instructions from the forum word for word.
It worked very well, but with the varadero unable to rev as high as the VTR due to the camshafts & electronics, I added a few final modifications myself (these modifications only apply to the VTR carbs on the varadero).

This I feel is the ultimate Varadero/VTR carb setup.

The main jets fitted are 170 front – 175 rear. (The 170 main is from the rear XL1000 carb).

Standard VTR springs.

Pilot jets are #48 (from a VTR w,x or y model).

The needle jets have their washers removed.

Pilot jets are 1 1/3 out front – 1 2/3 out rear.

Both vacuum holes are open.

Ram air filter mod fitted.

(NOTHING from the Dynojet kit was used)





It has a 15 tooth fireblade engine sprocket fitted & 44tooth cbr 600 fy rear (speedo now reads correct).

The engine starts first prod of the button & ticks over @ 800rpm, 5th gear at 30mph and will pull135mph. There are no flat spots in the rev range and pulls very hard to the redline in each gear.
I have many photos of the conversion if required.

Job done.

Cheers, Firedero.
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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The engine starts first prod of the button & ticks over @ 800rpm, 5th gear at 30mph and will pull135mph. There are no flat spots in the rev range and pulls very hard to the redline in each gear.
I have many photos of the conversion if required.

Job done.

Cheers, Firedero.
Why did you try this conversion, what was you hoping to gain? I'm not being rude or picky just asking a question as it seems you have gone to a lot of work and expense and not really changed or gained very much as my varadero will pull 135mph on standard setup the last time i was in Belgium on it.

Does it feel different to ride at all or handle any differently?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Hi,

I feel the change in the performance of my bike is incredible. I have a lot more enjoyment when riding and while the changes were important for me to make, I do understand that not everyone would carry out these changes.

I included the comment you highlighted and have asked about just to clarify that the bike does the same as a standard one, it does not misbehave in any way. I was after better acceleration, knowing that the engine was from the VTR, Ithought there must be more. I was right!

I am not after top speed, ( 135mph = jail ) the camshafts/electronicsand gear ratios limit that, but it was missing the surge that a V twin should give you. All I was trying to do is to make it a bit more fun to ride for me.

Some people are happy with the bike as it is, I wasn’t so I did something about it. I am not talking about a mild improvement, this totally changes the motorcycle.

I understand a lot of people will think this is a waste of time like I mentioned earlier in a previoius update, mutterings of well, if you wanted more you should of done this, or that or bought another bike……….

All I am trying to do is make it clear that this not a waste of time, if you are after big performance gains do it, you will not regret it. Believe you me I would not be wasting my time let alone your's if I felt this had been a waste of time, money & effort.

Thanks, Firedero.
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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Hi,



I included the comment you highlighted and have asked about just to clarify thatthe bike does the same as a standard one, it does not misbehave in any way. Iwas after better acceleration, knowing that the engine was from the VTR, Ithought there must be more. I was right!


Did you not think about using the injection from the SP1 it could take a bit of time to do the conversion but would be quicker and easier to tune it as you could fit a power commander and tune it at every 500rpm through the rev range using a laptop and the dynojet website or a similar setup using the yoshi box.

Only reason i say this as i have thought about getting another Varadero the same as the one i have and converting some bits and use it for sprinting. RAF Portreath by me ran a "Run what ya brung" for several years but seems to be having problems getting insurance lately. In the past on my firestorm i beat several 9r's and other fancy sportsbike's. I've just though of doing the same with a Varadero no one would suspect such a big heavy beast to be that quick. My mate had a ZX10 and was surprised how quick and nimble the Varadero is. I was thinking about lightening one, different suspension, lighter exhaust and maybe nitrous. I don't think it will happen now for a year or 2 but it's on the cards for some point soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hi,

SP1 bits........ are you mad?? If I could splice an SP1 injection system with a £350+ Dynojet power commander with coms port into a Varadero loom I would be a wealthy man......

You are missing the point, that VTR carb mod costs around £100 all in, buy the bits from EBay for less than a dynojet + K&N..... (I have done all the hard work, just find the parts)

Here are the modifications that I have done to the suspension if it’s of any help to anyone.

This setup has proved very good(comfortable) on the road and on the Anglesey circuit.

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Front forks.




Front end has been sorted by purchasing some Ohlin’s 2003>springs, here is what I wrote down at the time.

Removed std springs (430mm long) which I had previously pre-loaded with an additional 22mm spacer.

Drained the fork oil and replaced with Putoline HPX30.

Replaced the fork springs with Ohlins 105738 or 08725-85(490mm long) Recommended for 2003> Varadero XL1000.

Total length of internals removed are 430mm Std spring +100mm Std spacer + 22mm preload. 552mm total.

First try with the Ohlin’s, 490mm spring + 100mm Std spacer…..Way too hard 5mm if that of sag + rider (me on board).

After a few different setups I went with Ohlin’s 490mm spring, 55mm spacer + 5mm preload. It gives me static sag of 15mm & with rider (22 stone) 37mm sag.


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Rear Shock



I had replaced the Std shock with a Hagon unit from EBay, heavily sprung for two up touring + luggage, it worked & handled fantastic with the modded forks but was removed because it started to leak.


At the moment the bike is fitted with a Technoflex unit which is excellent, but a little too soft for spirited riding, because the front is now stiffer and the rear a little softer-lower the steering is a little lazier. (Still excellent though!)


I have currently fitted a jack up kit to the rear to try to combat the softer-lower shock, it has helped a bit but ideally I should get the Hagon weight spring on theTechnoflex damper unit.


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I am constantly looking to modify and hopefully improving as many things as I can on the Varadero. At the moment I am looking into grafting the bottom end of a CBR1100xx blackbird centre stand to the top end of a Varadero center stand so I still can have a centre stand with a 5.5 rear wheel with a 180 tyre fitted…

Also having looked on the Africanqueens site on fork extenders and read about how dangerous they can be (US chopper forums). I am look into fitting 43mm Honda CR 250 fork stantions running in Varadero lower legs & damper rods. You read it here first!!!!!


Regards, Firedero.
 
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