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Hi all, I have a '99 Varadero and here's the problem:
Apply the front brake and it releases ok. However, it doesn't activate the rear caliper.
Apply the rear brake and it activates both front and rear calipers but doesn't release the rear one properly, which continues to drag. It releases slowly.
I've checked the secondary cylinder on the front left caliper. It's free and moves easily. After the rear brake is applied it's solid for a while though. The rear caliper is a replacement and the pistons are free and easy. I've checked the proportioning control valve and that seems to be working fine. Fluid is obviously flowing one way ok when the brake is applied but doesn't seem to return properly when it's released. Any ideas??
I've heard there is a setting for the secondary cylinder on the front left caliper but I can't find how to measure that. Grateful for any help!!
 

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Don't both wheels have to be rotating for the linked brakes to operate correctly? If you're doing the check with the bike stationary, it may explain why the rear caliper doesn't activate with the front brake lever.

As for the slow release of the rear brake, make sure the pin through the brake pads is clean and with a bit of high temp grease on it, and also that the piston is clean.
 

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I had a similar problem a few months ago (winter).

I thought the worn rear disc & pads were to blame not the hydraulics, so I tried this.

I thought if it didn't work, no problem as I had ordered new anyway. I just couldn't wait for the post to arrive.

I am not by any means condoning this method but this is what I did & realise it might not go down well by some but it worked & I found out what the problem was for free, knackered grooved pads.

Tools

A pillar drill

2" Starrett cutter & Mandrel

Arc welding gloves

Dust mask

Method

I put a Starrett mandrel fitted with a 2" cutter in the chuck.

Then turned the speed down on my pillar drill to its lowest setting to avoid any nasty pad grab accidents.

Then placed a brake pad on the drilling deck & adjusted the Starrett cutting height so when the pad is pushed under the cutter it will only cut/face off about 1/4mm - 1/2mm each time I run it under the cutter.

Any more & the pad will grab.

Then whilst wearing a hefty set of arc welding gloves & mask, slowly pass the pad under till all the wear grooves have been cut away & then you have a brand new looking pad :thumbup:

Cowboy, WTF.



Now where did that pad go?
 

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The problem with that is the grooves are still in the disc, it won't take long until you groove the pads up again.
New discs and pads best solution.
Oh and why do discs get grooves in anyway? It's not as if you have hard spots on the pads, just one of life's mysteries I guess.
 

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The problem with that is the grooves are still in the disc, it won't take long until you groove the pads up again.
New discs and pads best solution.
Oh and why do discs get grooves in anyway? It's not as if you have hard spots on the pads, just one of life's mysteries I guess.
Crap off the road surface is the logical answer, getting in between the pads and the discs. Everytime you then apply your brakes whatever is there is forced onto the disc surface, and scoring them
 

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The problem with that is the grooves are still in the disc, it won't take long until you groove the pads up again.
New discs and pads best solution.
I can't see how your comments are helping solve this gent's problem PaulC :(

It seems to me PaulC you like sitting on the fence, criticizing people who are trying to help others. All the while not offering any helpful advise yourself. Please correct me if I am wrong :thumbup:

The gent has a problem with the brakes, there are only two things it can be. It will either be the pad/disc or the hydraulics.

Getting an answer with out spending any money is my way & I think the majority of folks way, it might not be yours though :rolleyes:

This is only meant to be a quick fix to get to the bottom of his problem.

You face the pads & see it the problem persists.

If it fixes the problem, then look into getting discs & pads. But I don't see the point in jumping in to buy a new set if the hydraulics are to blame.

Do you PaulC? Because that's what you seem to be saying.
New discs and pads best solution.
I would look into the hydraulic system if the faced pads don't fix the problem.

Simple.
 

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I don't think grooved pads or discs are the problem here either. (And if it was surely the most cost effective way to remedy it would be to put in some new pads.) On a positive note I would suggest that you check the rear calliper/carrier and the pad pins for general wear and that you ensure the rear disc is true. I have had to replace all these components in the past. Any brake components which are not properly aligned might cause binding. General wear and tear might allow some movement Good luck

PS Forgot to ask why the rear calliper was replaced? Was this before your ownership?
 

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If the rear brake is not activating by useing the front brake there is a splitter of sorts under the headlight that sends a certain amount of presure to the back brake, that could be at fault, blockage or kaput, if it is found to be the problem that would also result in the rear piston not releasing freely.
You could try reverse bleeding the back brake to see if there is a blockage inside it but would be very difficult to do.
Good enough for you Firedero????
 

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Crap off the road surface is the logical answer, getting in between the pads and the discs. Everytime you then apply your brakes whatever is there is forced onto the disc surface, and scoring them
Actually it's the pad itself that wears the the disc down into grooves as the pad is made of different composite densities, dust will accelerate the rate at which this occurs as the dust penetrates the softer material.
 
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