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Discussion Starter #1
Just doing some minor fettling on the NX400 tonight, swapping to folding gear lever, chain oiler and the like. My bodged rear pannier rack almost completed and ready to go on tomorrow once the paint was dry.

Then I was looking around at the front end and noticed a spot of damp on the front forks, I looked and felt a bit closer and yep, damp indeed :-( This is a real, real PITA, as I was still hoping to take it to Spain next weekend in preference to the Vara, (if I can get a ferry and a shared cabin to N Spain for Friday...) as it would be better off road, but no way am I riding 1200 miles in 3 days on it across England/France/Spain :)

I suspect that even though the bike has only done 1500km, it is 10yrs old, and it's first real outing, was a 700mile on/off road work out in Norfolk 3 weeks ago at the Safari Rally!! The seals have just given up I guess... How much weeping can I risk on a week's mixed road and trial riding, possibly not much when I am 1200 miles from home? Especially as the Insurers will not give breakdown cover on an over 10yr bike :(

So... How big a job is it? I have a bit of time tomorrow and maybe Monday, but TBH, I am tempted to find a local mechanic if I can get one quickly, as I have a bale wrapper for the farm that is in bits and needs finishing too.

How are the Honda fork seals for being standard, off the shelf bits, (as no way will any dealer stock a seal to the part number even if I do have it) from a bearing and seal company?? I ask, as the front/rear wheel seals are non standard items, as I know to my annoyance!!

Anyone at a loose end?? :)
 

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Oh dear Steve, first the Vara now the nx....
It doesn't feel good when you are about to head off & get problems!

Personally, I'd check the fluid level is matched & correct, top up if needed & head off - if it is only a very slight weep that is. Any more and you risk disc contamination.
Having said that, it's not a massive job to change but of course it depends what time you have.

Simply bearings have them in stock, so does Brooks Suspension (which I'd favour as they are branded NOK seals ;) )

Phil

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh dear Steve, first the Vara now the nx....
It doesn't feel good when you are about to head off & get problems!

Personally, I'd check the fluid level is matched & correct, top up if needed & head off - if it is only a very slight weep that is. Any more and you risk disc contamination.
Having said that, it's not a massive job to change but of course it depends what time you have.

Simply bearings have them in stock, so does Brooks Suspension (which I'd favour as they are branded NOK seals ;) )

Phil

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Thanks for that Phil, it does seem like stuff is breaking all over the place, I blame the idiot operating the kit. I also think the farm lane is telling me something.... That or I am too effing BIG!!! I had to have the Ka tracked yesterday and that was waaay out as well! The tractor seizing 3 weeks ago was probably not the farm lane though... ;)

The weep is modest I would say, but obviously I cannot actually tell levels without pulling the forks... ISTM, that if I have got that far, I am halfway to changing seals? I am intrigued that it is BOTH forks, one slightly worse than the other I would say. Never actually done a seal swap on forks.

Thanks for the recommendations too Phil, I'll see if the Brazilian parts book has a number that ties up with the numbers at Brooks, they do look a likely company I have to say, now bookmarked!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Right, I'm on the case here... I have the fiche exploded diagram and parts list out now.. :)

What is likely to be needed d'ya reckon? I have a seal set showing, is there likely to be anything else needed ...?



Later... Bugger me, David Silver has an OEM kit showing!! :-D Same as on zillions of Honda's, Hallelujah!
 

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Other than new oil and the seals, it's very unlikely that you'll need anything else but driving the top bush back in can take a little inginuity!
Removal of the bottom bolt is best with some impact (impact driver/windy gun) although they aren't excessively tight.

By checking fluid, it's often possible with forks still in the bike - be sure to support with front end off the ground before removing the caps though, otherwise you will look and feel like a right prick....!

Leaky seals generally don't fix them selves, I may be wrong but have a sneaky suspicion that in this instance they could settle down with use...?
A slight weep won't leave you stranded as long as there is enough fluid in there for lubrication & the leak is not bad enough to contaminate brakes (would need to be quite bad....).
Anyways (how many other hydraulic rams have been leaking for years on the farm?!
Thought so ;)

Obviously, a continuing leak needs to be sorted & is an mot failure.

Phil

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Other than new oil and the seals, it's very unlikely that you'll need anything else but driving the top bush back in can take a little inginuity!
Removal of the bottom bolt is best with some impact (impact driver/windy gun) although they aren't excessively tight.

By checking fluid, it's often possible with forks still in the bike - be sure to support with front end off the ground before removing the caps though, otherwise you will look and feel like a right prick....!

Leaky seals generally don't fix them selves, I may be wrong but have a sneaky suspicion that in this instance they could settle down with use...?
A slight weep won't leave you stranded as long as there is enough fluid in there for lubrication & the leak is not bad enough to contaminate brakes (would need to be quite bad....).
Anyways (how many other hydraulic rams have been leaking for years on the farm?!
Thought so :wink:

Obviously, a continuing leak needs to be sorted & is an mot failure.
Thanks for the good thoughts and advice Phil.

I took the NX4 out for a spin this morning, with a spot of off road on farm tracks, to check out the weep.... Damp on the RH would be my assessment, nothing more IAH. I'll get the seals on order in the meantime, or maybe pop over to Shrewsbury Honda and grab a set on Monday morning.

The forks use 530ml of bog standard ATF which is nice and easy to get hold of anyway :)

IKWYM about weepy rams, not that I have any farm kit here like that... Ahem! Good point about a seal bedding in though, some work and lube around the seal itself can make a lot of difference, and I am living in hope!! :thumbup:
 

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I don't usually strip forks to change seals, I just drop out the forks, remove the dust seal and pick out the old fork seal. Fit new then drain and refill with proper amount of oil. An hour a side tops I suppose?
Best of luck Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't usually strip forks to change seals, I just drop out the forks, remove the dust seal and pick out the old fork seal. Fit new then drain and refill with proper amount of oil. An hour a side tops I suppose?
Best of luck Steve.
That is what I WANTED to hear Jim!!!! :) I wondered if the seals would slip down over the tube... The seal retainer may be an issue from the pics... is it a circlip or screw usually??

Dropping the forks will be a 20min job as the bike is so clean and uncluttered on the front end. Biggest PITA will be removing additional clutter I have bodged on such as fork brace, GPS mount and hand guards :-D
 

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Steve, the seal is normally retained by a spring clip.

I have never tried removing a seal in situ, considered it but never had the balls to try.
DO NOT damage the chrome stanchion with hammers, punches and the like ;)

Phil

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I don't usually strip forks to change seals, I just drop out the forks, remove the dust seal and pick out the old fork seal.
So, it seems I am not the only lazy bugger that does that! ;) I have done it this way a few times Steve, most seals are held in with a circlip, just take your time and oil the seals well before fitting down over the fork leg. :thumbright:


Andy.
 

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Steve, the seal is normally retained by a spring clip.

I have never tried removing a seal in situ, considered it but never had the balls to try.
You youngsters have never lived!:rolleyes::D



Andy.
 

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butchers the lot of ya!!! but if it works. fork seals, think it's 1 of those OEM part times. If you're stripping forks, the bolt underneath... don't put the leg in a vice to undo. You should hold it upside-down & push down, whilst undoing the allen bolt. Otherwise it may just turn without effect, the pressure pushes something onto something blah di blah.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Steve, the seal is normally retained by a spring clip.

I have never tried removing a seal in situ, considered it but never had the balls to try.
DO NOT damage the chrome stanchion with hammers, punches and the like ;)

Phil

sent from my 'phone
I promise to be gentle... I don't think I have any emery tape around anymore, anyway....! :-D Do you want to come down and experiment here? :thumbup:

I am hoping that the seals will be OK, but IF I take the NX, I'll take seals with me.





Reminder: Must go through the Honda "toolkit" and put some proper spanners in the bag!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
butchers the lot of ya!!! but if it works. fork seals, think it's 1 of those OEM part times. If you're stripping forks, the bolt underneath... don't put the leg in a vice to undo. You should hold it upside-down & push down, whilst undoing the allen bolt. Otherwise it may just turn without effect, the pressure pushes something onto something blah di blah.
Gotcha!! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
You youngsters have never lived!:rolleyes::D



Andy.
Aha. An expert!

I can see Janice had better get some biccies in for all the xrv'ers who will be turning up to advise. What flavour d'ya want chaps, Choccy Hobnobs OK?? :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, it seems I am not the only lazy bugger that does that! ;) I have done it this way a few times Steve, most seals are held in with a circlip, just take your time and oil the seals well before fitting down over the fork leg. :thumbright:
No probs with lubing the old seals, as it's done already... Just need to find my long reach circlip pliers. :thumbup:
 

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Remove fork leg, prise out dust cover then remove the big clip with a screwdriver. I used to have an old tool for mending sacks, a bit like a thin screwdriver but had a hook on the end of it, it was perfect for hooking out the seals but I've lost it now!
Hammer a small screwdriver through the seal and hook it out with something! (A bent screwdriver would do).
Put a piece of thin polythene over the fork leg top to avoid damage to the new seal and pull it over the top on to the chrome leg over the polythene.
I use an old piece of alloy fork leg to seat the new one but if you cant find a bit of tubing just be careful not to damage the new one (I know you farmers and hammers!)
Refit the spring clip, dust seal and refit the fork leg, sorted! Same with the other side and both are done! Best of luck Steve mate.
 

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Have you tried a seal mate ?
I've done Bens Husky forks RWU's and his mates USD's to great results.
A lot of the time it's caused by grit getting trapped between the fork slider and the seal.
At £5 it's got to be worth a try, and if you can't get one immediately, you can make one up out of a ltr bottle of milk.

Simple to use, remove dust cover + spring retainer, slide in the seal mate and rotate in an upward / downward motion depending on your fork orientation.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
What a simple clever idea, got to be worth trying first I have to agree!! Thanks for that.

Probably some of that Naaarfolk dust :) At a fiver, I think I can afford to try one first, and maybe invest in some gaiters....

I noticed one of the seals have gone on a big ass lift ram on my bale wrapper yesterday, maybe it'll work on that too......? If only!
 
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