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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cos I am taking it off. Due to my new rec/reg (FH012AA) NOT fitting to the original mounts (well it does but the plugs foul the sidepanel lug) I am going to remove the resonator and fit the new rec/reg to the top of the mudguard under the sadle just behind the CDI. Not ideal but I will space it out with washers so it touches nothing. There would appear to be no reason it can't go there other than possible lack of airflow.

What say you?
 

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If it's not there, you'll lose resonance!

It was missing from the RD04 I broke for spares and that seemed to run okay. Take it off and see what it's like without it. Personally I don't think it is critical.
 

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Cos I am taking it off. Due to my new rec/reg (FH012AA) and fit the new rec/reg to the top of the mudguard under the sadle just behind the CDI. Not ideal but I will space it out with washers so it touches nothing. There would appear to be no reason it can't go there other than possible lack of airflow.

What say you?
But uhhhh.....it needs some of that airflow for cooling. Don't it?

Ohhh Futter :rolleyes:....I never really understood why you did not plug n' play an OEM R/R.
Are you trying to save a $ or is it the challange? :confused: Don't forget to solder those connections and make it all look pretty with heat shrink. :D
 

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No, it's because the OEM ones can be a bit rubbish :D
But Shindegen IMO is a qaulity Japanese (Genuine Honda product) but then again the whole system can be relative to your wiring integrity and corrosion leading to high resistance. Yes, their have been many issues with these R/R's from overvoltage but many members here will also claim they work just fine. Another reason to have a 'heads up display' charge monitor.

When my R/R fails on the road I want the ability to plug n' play the next one (I keep a spare in the tool box under the seat) as a soldering gun might be hard to find on the open road. Maybe that's just me as I'm a Honda OEM kinda guy when it comes to this system. :D
 

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Some components last years, others months. There is a middle ground there somewhere - mean time to failure. The MTTF on the OEM units is, I would suspect, rather less than that of some other units that can be fitted. I'd rather just fit a more robust non-oem unit and remove the need to have a 'heads up display' charge monitor or to carry a spare out of paranoia and need to plug 'n' play at the roadside.

The FH012AA is a Shindegen unit - just a modern MOSFET type which will run far cooler than the original regulator.

Having said all this, my RD04 had 43k miles on and the original fuel pump and regulator so, yes, some seem to be fine.
 

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Hard to explain why some will go and go...while others will not. As i mentioned already...wiring integrity has to be a big part of of. You see videos of riders drowning their bikes in creeks and oceans. You can't tell me these m'cycles won't have wiring issues later. A good soaking by salty roads over time in the UK will probably do the same to your wiring.

I considered an Electrosport after market at one time as everything told me it would work and I could get it here in N. America... but still not sure the mounting lugs would fit and i would still have to swap plugs.
Search results for: 'ESR250'

In the end I went with the proven Shindengen. About the same price and bolts and plugs straight in.
Regulator Rectifiers - T.E. Motorcycle Spares
 

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The unit you've gone for is same old shunt type as stock. The FH MOSFET units like futter is fitting are a much better bet. Okay you need to juggle stuff around to fit one but it's a one-time effort and also waterproof if you get the correct plugs.
 

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I removed the resonator from my RD04 to make space to fit an alarm box (which is about the same sort of dimensions as a regulator). I think the resonator has something to do with creating turbulence in the air flow to the carbs or something of that nature if I remember right (looked it up at the time by can't remember it all now).

Didn't seem to make any difference to the running of my bike, but if you're putting a regulator in that space and it'll get hot, I'm not sure if that air being heated would have any effect (I seem to remember hearing that engines tend to run better when the air supply is cold but I'm not sure to what degree that's the case). On the other hand any air being sucked in there, might help to keep the regulator cool?
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
But uhhhh.....it needs some of that airflow for cooling. Don't it?

Ohhh Futter :rolleyes:....I never really understood why you did not plug n' play an OEM R/R.
Are you trying to save a $ or is it the challange? :confused: Don't forget to solder those connections and make it all look pretty with heat shrink. :D

There will be some airflow - it will be touching nothing other then the mounting bolts as well. Also, when speaking to local auto electrician - he reckons good qaulity crimp connections are better as soldering produces higher resistance - yes I will use heat shrink and a touch of self amalgamating tape to make it look pretty.

And yes this will be a cheaper option. This is a better qaulity item and yes it is a bit of a challenge.
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, looking at this swap of a rec/reg on an RD03 I will be putting mine in an identical place so I reckon it will be fine.

R-R Swap
 

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Ahhh...crimping vs solder can stir up a debate that's for sure. Aerospace almost always use crimps so that says something.... but then again they use $200 ratcheting quality crimpers that are specific to that pin or connector. Your auto/electrical tech friend is right. A solder joint not done properly can come loose just as easy as a bad crimp job. Having said that many will swear by the solder method over crimping.

Beg borrow or steal a qaulity crimper if you can as those $5 crimpers can cause grief as vibration over time could cause it to become loose. Do a tug test after to be sure.

Some folks will even opt for a dab of solder on the crimped connector for good measure.
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a crimper that is decent enough - not a naff one but not a fortune either.
 

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The unit you've gone for is same old shunt type as stock. The FH MOSFET units like futter is fitting are a much better bet. Okay you need to juggle stuff around to fit one but it's a one-time effort and also waterproof if you get the correct plugs.
I hear what your saying Alan. Those connectors are way more modern and definately an improvement. Should help eliminate meltdowns. I never really paid much attention to the MOSFET at first but searching various m'cycle forums it seems to be gaining in popularity too as an upgrade. Maybe even squeeze an extra amp out of those connectors. :p

I'll stick with my shunt for now while its still doing it's job...still better than that old style carbon pile volt/reg I worked on in an old Beechcraft. :D


 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it is fitted and connected - battery on charge so will fire up later and see what happens!
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got a nice steady 14.4/14.5v accross the terminals - woohoo!!!

Just gotta tidy it all up and start riding again!!!!

£49 well spent.:thumbup:
 
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