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Junior
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481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got a minute to do this.
Warning
Just to make sure this warning to everyone, I’m not a professional just like most inmates here I prefer DIY, this my 1[SUP]st[/SUP] wheel build ever and I want share experience with you lot !
Ok let’s go,
1[SUP]st[/SUP] thing to do is plenty research how to do job…
Here something to read https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&sour...ggkMAE&usg=AFQjCNEoQKSEYHZLpR5lSfZWFRUDpHVwlw


YouTube, google , this forum will help too. Then research what’s need to be done (change spokes , change rims , paint hub , where to get stuff? )

I will upload links that I use for myself .
Where to get stuff?
Depends what you need and want. Cheapest set of excel rims and spokes I found on german touratech €259 only thing they Black.

https://shop.touratech.de/excel-rim-with-set-of-spokes-for-honda-africa-twin-rd07-a-for-front-wheel-53-34-x-4-7cm-21-x-1-85-36.html

https://shop.touratech.de/excel-rim-with-set-of-spokes-for-honda-africa-twin-rd07-a-for-rear-wheel-43-18-x-6-35cm-17-x-2-5-32.html
So I got in touch with Jonathan in Rugged roads and got set in gold. Another issue original rear rims 17” x 2.75 and they discontinued so options now ( 17” x 2.5 but this will limit tyre size I think 130 wide max ) then ( 17” x 3.5 that what I got ) loads lads going for 18” rim much more tyre options so you need to decide that for your self .
Important thing is make sure rims are predrilled to Africa twin hub.
By the way Central wheels can supply ss spokes and rims too.
some videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2ba2uiHMYM

Right at this stage you probably have everything delivered. Now need some tools
Spoke wrench 6.4mm
, grinder, balancing jig
that will fit paddock stand , flat surface, flat head screwdriver large, that all I can think off for now.

OK before dismantling wheels take loads pictures from all angles, you can ley it flat and make pattern if needed, I place new rim over old with tyre nipple same place, then mark where
1[SUP]st[/SUP] hole from the tyre nipple going clockwise ( outer spoke then every 4[SUP]th[/SUP] goin same way)
2[SUP]nd[/SUP] hole anticlockwise was inner spokes and same thing every 4[SUP]th[/SUP] hole after that and noted way hub positioned toward nipple.
Front wheel first is bit easier, there is no offset , so on one side lace outer spokes then inner spokes flip wheel over the do same on other side. Then fallow video tutorial on how to lace and true wheel .
By the way in perfect world should be 2 spokes lengths outer shorter and inner longer but I was give one length so just have to grind off protruding excess, no problem.
Main thing is patience.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOEQwViNLuU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4seylmsPzAk

Rear wheel bit more complicated!
1[SUP]st[/SUP] is offset then spokes different angle on sprocket side.
So same as front wheel align rim with wheel flat and make sure new rim right way up one of inmates here (Glen) pointed out to me spec writing on the rim going on to disc side ( thanks ), but you should be able to see holes on sprocket side much shallower angle.
When that all set have to measure offset before taking wheel apart, you ask how??? When wheels different size …. That what I did, please don’t judge me if you know better way please post it here for every one:
Place wheel on flat surface, let say disc way down then using calliper tool measure distance from high and low spoke nipple to the surface in 4 different places 90 degree apart to be sure and write some ware safe , flip wheel over and do same thing disk side down , make sure wright all down. Here some photos

When lace rear wheel spokes on disk side go same way as front wheel (outer spokes first then inner one) on sprocket side other way around (inner first then outer) when tighten spokes check offset same way you measure old wheel offset .
O nearly forget in perfect world there should be 4 spoke lengths but more likely you get 3 so no problem , longest go on sprocket side medium on disc side inner spokes and smallest outer on disc side, in the end grind off excess .
I hope I remember all correctly. :hitler:
 

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a+1 on write up
I've also just done my first wheel build and found it quite easy but you must take your time. Only done the rear so far but with
the big offset maybe it is the most technical.

I built a jig made from some scrap wood and some threaded rod. This sets the offset and coarse alignment upon rebuild.

1. Mark out circles on base for wheel diameter (add 1" to nominal diameter to account for rim lip: 17" - 18"; 21" - 22")
I placed a nail at the centre then used string and pen.
2. Mark out the 120 degree positions for rods and cut some slots to take 10 mm rod
3. Cut three lengths of 10 mm threaded rod - I used 17 cm but depends on wheel offset and base thickness.
4. Get 6-off large 10 mm washers or drill holes in scrap alloy plate to support rods in base
5. Secure threaded rods to base (2 nuts and 2 washers per rod)
6. Thread a 10 mm NYLOC nut onto each rod from the top (flat on top) and add a large washer to support rim
7. Drill hole in centre of base sized to axle diameter.

The photos below show setup for rear 17" AT wheel. I'll adapt it now for 21" front.

Circle Architecture Concrete Sundial Pattern

Rear wheel mounted sprocket side down for maximum access during rebuild.
1 Secure hub with spindle.
2. Move three threaded rods in radially until they touch the rim. Tighten lower nut to secure rod to board.
3. Wind the Nyloc nuts up until they lightly support the rim (I gripped rod with mole grips).

Tire Spoke Wheel Rim Automotive tire Tire Bicycle wheel Bicycle part Spoke Bicycle tire Gas Machine Metal

Take lots of photos before dismantling wheel. I marked the position of the valve on jig board
and hub.
OEM rim was good so just had it powder coated. Stainless spokes and nipples from Central Wheel
£58.40 delivered. Three sizes were supplied (few spares were also included which is a nice touch)
The only way I could get them to work was:
Long (16 spokes) Sprocket side​
Medium (8 spokes) Inner disc side
Short (8 spokes) Outer/cross disc side​




Place hub in jig and secure with spindle. Rest rim on washers on threaded rods.

Auto part Rim Wheel Tire Automotive tire

Insert medium length spokes from disc side

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Rim Auto part

Insert Long length spokes from sprocket side. Must be in same direction as first set

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Spoke Auto part

Insert second set of Long length spokes on sprocket side crossing first set on outside

Tire Spoke Wheel Rim Automotive tire

Finally, insert short length spokes from disc side crossing first set on OUTSIDE
Hand tighten all nipples or apply the lightest of touches with screw driver.

Tire Spoke Rim Alloy wheel Wheel

Remove wheel from jig - looking good :)

Tire Spoke Rim Bicycle wheel Wheel

If you have an alignment jig use that for final truing - I used the rear swinging arm.
Insert axle, push either far forward or back and then tighten axle to secure.

Wheel Spoke Auto part Tire Rim

Use a dial gauge if you have one (I don't) or use WD40 tube as guide for radial (roundness) runout, card for axial (side to side) alignment.
When truing concentrate initially on 4 sets of spokes at valve (12), 3, 6 & 9 o'clock. Remember when you are tightening one set of spokes
to loosen the corresponding set of spokes to pull the rim in the direction you want - this avoids over tightening some spokes.
Get radial runout sorted first then axial. Haynes manual says +/- 1 mm for both axial and radial run out.
The use of the jig definitely helped as the wheel was almost round from the start. I just had bit of axial
misalignment to correct - steady as you go !

l Wheel Tire Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive wheel system

When you are happy set tension on all spokes to the same then gradually tighten 1/4 turn (90 degrees) at time.
Check tension by pinging with spoke spanner. Recheck runouts regularly during the process.

NO GRINDING OF SPOKES WAS NEEDED AT END.

Took me 1 hour to insert the spokes then 1 hour to sort alignment. It's not a race but hopefully this
indicates it's not a big job. I'll post a front wheel guide when I do that in a few months.
 

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Junior
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481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Top man Sheep !
Any more ideas lads fill free and plenty pictures please , hop this will help some other inmate in the future.

Val

2 bikes , twice is happy ?
 

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357 Posts
Nice write-up ... Wheel building is something I really need to learn..

_____________________________________________
Find me on Facebook: MotoTed & MotoRevive.
 

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Junior
Joined
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481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well this bikes getting older , there is 3 common problems ,
1st was output shaft .... witch was sorted , now we have temporary fix with stefter sprocket and new shaft back on the market .
2nd was wheels .... they rot like cheese so now lads can see it's possible to rebuild your self for fraction of cost.
3rd it's calipers .... I was looking at solution but nothing come a cross , hop someone out there have good engineer skills to make adaptor plate .

Val

2 bikes , twice is happy ?
 

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942 Posts
Thank you to Vinas and Sheep for your very useful guides :thumbup:,
i've paid to have several wheels rebuilt over the years, think i'll have a crack at it myself next time
 

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237 Posts
OK as promised here's a write-up of rebuilding the front wheel.
There is no offset on the front wheel so no jig required.

Take lots of photos before dismantling wheel to capture the spoke pattern. This is one I used.

Spoke Bicycle wheel Bicycle part Rim Wheel

OEM rim was good so just had it powder coated. Stainless spokes and nipples from Central Wheel
£77.00 delivered. Two sizes were supplied (few spares were also included which is a nice touch)
The only way I could get them to work was:
Long (18 spokes) Outer spokes
Short(18 spokes) Inner spokes

Note this is different to the rear and I'm thinking relates to the different spoke patterns.

Bumper Auto part Plastic wrap

Line up hub and rim as photo at top.
Speedo drive and rim markings on top. I even aligned hub and markings
as per photo to make it easy to insert the first spoke correctly.

Wheel Auto part Rim Automotive wheel system Clutch

Gather 9 long spokes. Moving clockwise insert into OUTER hub holes.
Spacing is every fourth hole in rim. Just tighten the nipple a few threads on each spoke.

Spoke Tire Rim Wheel Automotive tire

Gather 9 short spokes. Moving anti-clockwise insert into INNER hub holes on same side of hub.
Spokes go in rim holes between outer spokes.

Spoke Tire Rim Bicycle wheel Wheel

Flip wheel over onto other side.
Gather 9 long spokes. Moving clockwise insert into OUTER hub holes.

Spoke Tire Bicycle wheel Rim Wheel

Gather 9 short spokes. Moving anti-clockwise insert into INNER hub holes on same side of hub
to complete the build.

Spoke Tire Bicycle wheel Rim Wheel

Slowly tighten spokes by gradually working your way around the rim HAND turning each nipple to a defined
number of remaining spoke threads.
Start with 5, then 3, then 1 then zero. At that point the wheel should be pretty solid. There may be a few spokes
still loose due to variations in spoke manufacture - hand tighten them now.

You are now ready to center and align the wheel - will post details when I get to this at the weekend



 

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At last here's details of tightening front wheel spokes and aligning wheel. Had to wait for front axle to come back from the
platers. Also work out how to mount the wheel. If you have the forks in the bike then that's probably the easiest route in the absence
of a specialist jig.

Picture below show how I did it it with a vice and bit of wood. I used a WD40 tube on alloy block for a guide.
Tolerance is +/- 1 mm on both axial (side to side) and radial (out-of-round) runout


The wheel turned out to be good from the off so it was simply a case of tighten the spokes. Start by going around the wheel from the marker
point (valve) in strict rotation tightening each spoke a 1/4 turn at a time. Once you start to get a bit of tension on the spokes bring any looser
ones up to the same average tension - judge by pressure on spanner first then pitch after spanner strike.
Right at end I went round each side checking to common pitch. Don't overtighten - just need bright pitch.

Any questions just drop me a PM.

Spoke Bicycle wheel Tire Bicycle tire Rim Auto part Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Bicycle wheel Tire Spoke Rim Wheel Metal Machine tool Auto part Steel Machine Machine tool Machine Metal
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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That's real good. Had mine rebuilt earlier this year but I will be taking the front back as there's a 5 mm axial run out on a small part of the rim. Causing a wobble if you let go of the bars. Thought it was just a badly fitted tyre at first. Tyre off rim and refitted till the bead line was exact. No issue on headstock bearng or wheel bearing. Never thought it would be the actual wheel till I did the zip tie measure
 

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Sorry to hear about your wheel. 5mm axial run-out over a small area sounds a lot and may I'm afraid indicate a bent rim.
If it cannot be corrected by adjusting a few spokes then dismantle the wheel and check the rim on a flat surface.
Another thing to check is the wheel balance. My original wheel had two large lead weights around two spokes and not on the rim
- looked factory fitted.
 

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Whatever you do Paul, don't fall for the crap on his facebook page and take it to South Wales Wheelbuilding, the bloke is a waste of time.
 

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Thank you for this. My shiny new Excel rims and s/steel spokes arrived and I'm just about to dismantle the old wheels and replace the bearings. Given I've got all the time in the world during the Easter lockdown, I'm looking forward to having a go at this.
 

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Glad to be of help.
I'd recommend doing the front wheel first as it's the easier of the two.

Then on the rear take your time. I may have posted one set of photos but I respoked that wheel 4 times until it was right. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING !
Also sort the three different lengths of spoke and follow guidance above on where they are placed - there is only ONE way.
Happy to provide additional advice should you need it.

Oh yeah, take lots of photos - both sides of the wheel. When you think you have enough take some more :)
 

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Glad to be of help.
I'd recommend doing the front wheel first as it's the easier of the two.

Then on the rear take your time. I may have posted one set of photos but I respoked that wheel 4 times until it was right. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING !
Also sort the three different lengths of spoke and follow guidance above on where they are placed - there is only ONE way.
Happy to provide additional advice should you need it.

Oh yeah, take lots of photos - both sides of the wheel. When you think you have enough take some more :)
Thanks "The Sheep", I'll take it slow and steady :).
 

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a+1 on write up
I've also just done my first wheel build and found it quite easy but you must take your time. Only done the rear so far but with
the big offset maybe it is the most technical.

I built a jig made from some scrap wood and some threaded rod. This sets the offset and coarse alignment upon rebuild.

1. Mark out circles on base for wheel diameter (add 1" to nominal diameter to account for rim lip: 17" - 18"; 21" - 22")
I placed a nail at the centre then used string and pen.
2. Mark out the 120 degree positions for rods and cut some slots to take 10 mm rod
3. Cut three lengths of 10 mm threaded rod - I used 17 cm but depends on wheel offset and base thickness.
4. Get 6-off large 10 mm washers or drill holes in scrap alloy plate to support rods in base
5. Secure threaded rods to base (2 nuts and 2 washers per rod)
6. Thread a 10 mm NYLOC nut onto each rod from the top (flat on top) and add a large washer to support rim
7. Drill hole in centre of base sized to axle diameter.

The photos below show setup for rear 17" AT wheel. I'll adapt it now for 21" front.

View attachment 109874

Rear wheel mounted sprocket side down for maximum access during rebuild.
1 Secure hub with spindle.
2. Move three threaded rods in radially until they touch the rim. Tighten lower nut to secure rod to board.
3. Wind the Nyloc nuts up until they lightly support the rim (I gripped rod with mole grips).

View attachment 109697 View attachment 109705 View attachment 109713

Take lots of photos before dismantling wheel. I marked the position of the valve on jig board
and hub.
OEM rim was good so just had it powder coated. Stainless spokes and nipples from Central Wheel
£58.40 delivered. Three sizes were supplied (few spares were also included which is a nice touch)
The only way I could get them to work was:
Long (16 spokes) Sprocket side​
Medium (8 spokes) Inner disc side​
Short (8 spokes) Outer/cross disc side​


View attachment 109721

Place hub in jig and secure with spindle. Rest rim on washers on threaded rods.

View attachment 109729

Insert medium length spokes from disc side

View attachment 109737

Insert Long length spokes from sprocket side. Must be in same direction as first set

View attachment 109745

Insert second set of Long length spokes on sprocket side crossing first set on outside

View attachment 109753

Finally, insert short length spokes from disc side crossing first set on OUTSIDE
Hand tighten all nipples or apply the lightest of touches with screw driver.

View attachment 109769

Remove wheel from jig - looking good :)

View attachment 109761

If you have an alignment jig use that for final truing - I used the rear swinging arm.
Insert axle, push either far forward or back and then tighten axle to secure.

View attachment 109777

Use a dial gauge if you have one (I don't) or use WD40 tube as guide for radial (roundness) runout, card for axial (side to side) alignment.
When truing concentrate initially on 4 sets of spokes at valve (12), 3, 6 & 9 o'clock. Remember when you are tightening one set of spokes
to loosen the corresponding set of spokes to pull the rim in the direction you want - this avoids over tightening some spokes.
Get radial runout sorted first then axial. Haynes manual says +/- 1 mm for both axial and radial run out.
The use of the jig definitely helped as the wheel was almost round from the start. I just had bit of axial
misalignment to correct - steady as you go !

l View attachment 109785

When you are happy set tension on all spokes to the same then gradually tighten 1/4 turn (90 degrees) at time.
Check tension by pinging with spoke spanner. Recheck runouts regularly during the process.

NO GRINDING OF SPOKES WAS NEEDED AT END.

Took me 1 hour to insert the spokes then 1 hour to sort alignment. It's not a race but hopefully this
indicates it's not a big job. I'll post a front wheel guide when I do that in a few months.
Any chance of sharing your offset measurements please?
 
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