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Discussion Starter #1
I'm starting to feel paranoid.

I had just sourced a second hand front disc to replace the warped on on the bike, when I found that a 130/80 that fits any other PD06 won't fit mine...:rolleyes:, and now, having just taken the bike out of the garage for the first time since parking it up after getting it back here from the UK, I find that the clutch is on the way out.

Have I pissed off the gods? What's next?! :confused:

Anyway, so now I want to know if anyone knows of a cheap supplier of decent clutch kits for a PD06. I'm guessing Wemoto. Any others?

Secondly, to anyone who has replaced their clutch themselves can you give me a break down of what I need to buy to do the job in one afternoon?

It looks like I have to remove the rear down pipe to take the clutch cover off.

Do I need to order anything other than the clutch plates.

My list so far based on a cursory look before riding out:


  • Set of friction plates
  • Gasket for the clutch cover
  • Exhaust gasket for the rear down pipe.
Anything else? Does the front downpipe need to come off, etc?

Basically, I don't want the bike to be off the road any longer than I need to replace the clutch....
 

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Are you absolutely certain the clutch is on its way out?
It could be the wrong type of engine oil causing the clutch to slip.
If you are going to replace the clutch then get new springs as well, once the clutch is accessible, you may as well replace the lot.
 

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I'm with Stumpy, the clutch might not be knackered. I thought my Serow clutch was on the way out once but it turned out to be the cable. Only became obvious when I disconnected both ends to check it.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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If you do have to go in you need a new clutch centre nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you absolutely certain the clutch is on its way out?
It could be the wrong type of engine oil causing the clutch to slip.
If you are going to replace the clutch then get new springs as well, once the clutch is accessible, you may as well replace the lot.
Yes, I would replace the lot. I especially don't want to take it all apart and find there is one more part that I need. My Ural is off the road and stuff takes at least a week to get here, hence my one-day turn around.

As for the oil, I did change the oil before putting it in storage, but it was Castrol 10/40 semi-synth' bike oil, so it should be wet-clutch compatible.

If you do have to go in you need a new clutch centre nut.
All the times I've changed clutches, once in, you only need to under the 6 spring retaining nuts to access the friction and separator plates. I think the clutch centre nut is only removed if you want to remove the clutch basket....

Correct me if I'm wrong...
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Yes, I would replace the lot. I especially don't want to take it all apart and find there is one more part that I need. My Ural is off the road and stuff takes at least a week to get here, hence my one-day turn around.

As for the oil, I did change the oil before putting it in storage, but it was Castrol 10/40 semi-synth' bike oil, so it should be wet-clutch compatible.



All the times I've changed clutches, once in, you only need to under the 6 spring retaining nuts to access the friction and separator plates. I think the clutch centre nut is only removed if you want to remove the clutch basket....

Correct me if I'm wrong...
I believe you're right. The only thing ever wrong with my clutches is wear to the basket, the plates, springs and bearings are always like new and well within tolerance even after they've been round the clock. I have filed the notches out of the basket in the past on a few bikes, so had to remove it. I would like to replace my current basket but it's over 400 quid for a new one from Honda, so it's another file job.
 

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I believe you're right. The only thing ever wrong with my clutches is wear to the basket, the plates, springs and bearings are always like new and well within tolerance even after they've been round the clock. I have filed the notches out of the basket in the past on a few bikes, so had to remove it. I would like to replace my current basket but it's over 400 quid for a new one from Honda, so it's another file job.
Relatively off topic, how does a clutch basket wear and how does filing fix it? (though 'fix' might be quite a strong word!)
 

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Relatively off topic, how does a clutch basket wear and how does filing fix it? (though 'fix' might be quite a strong word!)
About half of the clutch plates have tongues, ( like big sprocket teeth)
These fit in the grooves of the basket.
As the clutch is engaged and disengaged they hammer the sides of the baskets grooves, over time this creates a lip that makes the clutch stick.
By filing off the burrs of these lips the clutch plates can separate easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can anyone suggest any clutch suppliers other than Wemoto?
 

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SOTGATT
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I got mine from David Silver...can't remember how much.....reasonable though methinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, my old mechanic and pal in Wimbledon has said he'll order them for me and my Dad can bring the parts over when he next visits. The added bonus is that he said he'd lend me his spare clutch nut and clutch immobilising tools to make the job easier!!

Sweet! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I believe you're right. The only thing ever wrong with my clutches is wear to the basket, the plates, springs and bearings are always like new and well within tolerance even after they've been round the clock. I have filed the notches out of the basket in the past on a few bikes, so had to remove it. I would like to replace my current basket but it's over 400 quid for a new one from Honda, so it's another file job.
Nope, you were right: I managed to consult a Haynes manual and it seems that the centre nut does need to come off...







b*gger.....
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Nope, you were right: I managed to consult a Haynes manual and it seems that the centre nut does need to come off...







b*gger.....
Well at least the nut is cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Cheaper than the frayed nerves, trying to undo the little barsteward....;)
In the end I put it in gear and got someone to stand on the rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In the end I put it in gear and got someone to stand on the rear brake.
My mechanic-mate is lending me the Honda tools to do it, so it should be OK, but I'm sure there'll be some challenges along the way: A lot of those bolts have not been undone since they left the factory........ 17 years ago!!
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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My mechanic-mate is lending me the Honda tools to do it, so it should be OK, but I'm sure there'll be some challenges along the way: A lot of those bolts have not been undone since they left the factory........ 17 years ago!!
I don't think you'll have any problems on most of the bolts. I only broke one, and that was putting it back afterwards. Must have been something wrong with the bolt (one of the outer casing bolts) because I was able to unscrew the remaining piece with my fingers and I had hardly tightened it at all. One of the rack bolts was the same so I used that to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
All done.

Took me 7 hours!!!

about 2 of those were cleaning gasket off!!

Nothing went askew, but somehow it took an aeon!! I also switshed my warped front disc for my spare one with new pads. Still seems to be a bit warped so perhaps its a problem with the hub....:confused:

New clutch was an EBC dirt bike effort with heavy duty springs too. So far it works OK.

Only problem was that it seems my front caliper is trying to self destruct. Luckily, this is apparently not dangerous. Indeed, it is only the dust seal trying to break loose!! All the same... a bit freaky!!

Anyhoo, a big thanks to all that offered advice on getting it done. I hope I never have to do it again!!;)
 
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